Montauk Pioneer - August 22, 2008 - Rick's Crabby Cowboy Café

If you're looking for a fun place to eat, that the whole family can enjoy without mortgaging your house-if you love waterside dining overlooking boats and a sunset-and if you love getting huge portions of quality food at a great value-then come on down to Rick's Crabby Cowboy Café in Montauk.

As you drive down the winding, East Lake Drive, near the Montauk Airport, you will at first be surprised to see a red, sprawling, barn-like building at the edge of Lake Montauk's harbor.

"Why would there be a western theme in the midst of fishing boats?" you might ask.

But on closer look, that is because Rick's offers you the best of both worlds-an unusual and distinctive combination of the best, fresh-cooked seafood, with the best, slow-cooked barbecue. And who could beat that?

Rick Gibbs himself is an all-American, hard-working, family kind of guy who loves kids, and loves to show his guests a good time. His place is down-home and casual, just like him. You will recognize Rick (and all his other staffers) by the bright red T-shirts they where, emblazoned with the catchy restaurant name. When you enter this restaurant, whether you're wearing sneakers, flip flops or cowboy boots, you just want to let your hair down, sit back, and have a couple Mojitos at the many long tables under the huge windows overlooking the boats and water. At Rick's, you can come in with two or 20 people, and he has the room. He likes to say, "You can come here by car, boat or plane." And he says he has "the cleanest kitchen in the County."

My three guests and I chose an inside table by the water, in a huge dining room with high ceilings and lots of light. There is also outside dining available under an adjacent tent, overlooking the lake. We scanned the "Special Drinks" list of Rum Punch, Mojitos, Margueritas, and assorted frozen fruit Daiqueris, and chose a few of each. I must say the Mojito was my favorite, filled to the brim with fresh mint.

Being seafood lovers, we ordered appetizers including the heaping platter of fresh Steamers, an order of Clams on the Half Shell, and another giant portion of Mussels in White Wine and Garlic, with bits of celery. All were perfectly prepared and melted in our mouths. We also tried Rick's famous Manhattan Clam Chowder, homemade, steaming hot and chock full of clams and veggies-yum.

It was a hard choice between all the entrees, but we had to try his famous barbecue dish of "Smoked Pulled Pork," ($20.95) which is slow-cooked for 18 hours, falls off the bone, and comes with the most tangy, tasty barbecue sauce imaginable. With a baked potato (sealed in aluminum foil) and his homemade coleslaw, this really hit the spot! Our friendly waitress, Casey, recommended Rick's famous "Clam Bake Bowl," ($24.95) and we were amazed to see the size of this huge mound of steamed hard clams, mussels, steamers, and giant shrimp, soaking in a garlic/wine broth, with a side of garlic bread. We also tried Rick's pound and a half steamed lobster ($33.95), which looked even bigger, and was cooked just right. It also came with drawn butter, fries or baked potato and cole slaw. I tried my personal favorite-Rick's crabby Crab Cakes, ($20.95) which are fried and also very tasty.

Dessert consists of ice cream and Good Humor bars for the kids. There are also outdoor fireplaces where the kids can toast their own marshmallows, and big red slow-cookers on the property. There is a big children's menu available, for $8.95, and Rick's "Famous Onion Rings" for $7.95. Rick and Brian Cootes, of Jamaica, make all the grub.

Rick's Crabby Cowboy Café is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, from 12 Noon to 10 p.m. Dress casual. 631-668-3200.