Montauk Pioneer - August 22, 2008 - Preparing For Big Waves

The fall search for clean, hurricane storm generated ground swell lines will commence with the Labor Day Weekend celebration. September is a month that we look forward to all year long while preparing our minds, bodies and souls as we wait passionately for large surf through careful dieting, strenuous exercise, cold water surfing and mind conditioning exercises through varying forms of meditation.

The first cold, early morning airborne chill signifies the start of the fall surfing season and each year we are blessed with world class surfing for two solid months.

When the word of an approaching hurricane swell is sounded throughout the soul surfing network, nearly everything ceases and hardcore advocates heed the instructions of their personal wave search plan, congregating at local surf breaks to determine first where the finest surfing locations are with regard to the day's swell direction, wind speed, wave height and wave intervals.

Many have identified, beforehand, select surfing locations with deep water attributes required to handle large oceans swells while magically transforming them into slow, rolling ruler edged lines and the kind that we yearn for all year long.

Personally, my fall season big wave search starts with a call-in to work if applicable, followed by a predawn looksee at Smith Point Beach five minutes from home, then off to Cupsogue Beach Park in the Westhampton Dunes community where Hurricane Fabian pulsed stout 15 foot "A-frame" feathering long lines into the nearby shipwreck.

Shinnecock Inlet in Hampton Bays remains a must see third stop and if "Flies or The Bowl" are not at its best, we know immediately whether we are to head east to Montauk or west to Long Beach in Nassau County.

Big surf preparation includes possessing duplicate sets of hardware and accessories such as a backup surfboard, leash, wetsuit and, while equipped with no time restraints, allowing for deep concentration and focus.

August is the time of year to make all required board repairs and a great time to remove old wax from the deck while spit shining the hull of your favorite big wave stick. Large wave hardware and accessories should be stored in a single gear bag to prevent confusion at the beach.

During the month of September, many local area surf shops slash their prices up to and beyond fifty percent, providing customers with great deals and in time for the two-month hurricane swell.

Fall is the time of year when Long Island surfers unveil their finest hardware that includes superb artwork and complementary color schemes transforming beachside surfing location bluffs and sand dunes into glorious works of art with surfboards standing vertically, acting as prominent pillars to a natural canvas backdrop.

Big wave riding requires a positive, relaxed and carefree mind to ensure that the wave rider harnesses wave energy that can propel them to speeds upward of 35 miles per hour and with relative ease.

If a wave rider exhibits even the slightest emotional uncertainty, it may have an adverse impact. When the mind, body and soul are in a calm and stable state, superior wave riding maneuvers are borne through spontaneous and carefree mind concentration.

It makes good sense to remain calm the minute you awake during the morning of "the search" and a mental checklist to ensure that all of your required gear is on-board and all equipment inspected in operable condition.

Consumption of leafy vegetables, whole grain, fresh fruit and carbohydrates in the form of pasta, the night before, will surely help your body generate enough awesome fuel during the next days surfing experience with little or no additional food consumption.

The euphoric feeling acquired through a positive big wave riding experience can last months and when redirected and cleverly channeled, the high can accelerate ones desire for success while satisfying long and near term goals in this life and with relative ease.

Quote of the Week: "Spirit is Strongest within us when our body is at its best. When our well being is superlative, it is then that we are full of Spirit and Unbeatable." -Dorian Paskowitz, M.D.