Montauk Pioneer - August 15, 2008

Now in its third season, Havana Beach Club is the only place in Montauk to go for authentic Cuban cuisine. If you like ethnic food, like I do, then take a trip out to the scenic Montauk docks, where you will find this cozy restaurant overlooking the harbor and fishing fleet, on West Lake Drive.

You can choose from three dining experiences-outside on the sunlit patio, or inside their popular bar area, at tables along the window, or in their intimate interior dining room, with artwork depicting scenes of Havana and the beach.

We were greeted by popular bartender Jimmy Giles, and we chose the inside dining room on this perfect August night, where bright fresh flowers decorated every table. Our bubbly waitress Jen came over, and we ordered their signature Mojito (my favorite), brimming with fresh mint leaves, and a frozen Margarita, which was floating in a glass trimmed with fresh limes.

As we scanned the large menu, we asked Raul Gisbert, the owner, for his recommendations of the most popular native Cuban dishes, like his family used to make. He explained that he comes from a long line of restaurateurs, and that his mother and father come from Puerto Padre in Oriente Provence, Cuba.

"My Dad has owned a take-out place in Brentwood, LI, for 33 years, called, "La Cubanita," he said. "My grandfather had a restaurant on the beach in Puerto Padre during the 1930s and 40's."

Now Raul continues the family tradition, with his wife, Nohemy, as the hostess of Havana Beach Club, and their 17 year-old son, Devon, as a busboy. Their other son, Brandon, is only six, but there's hope for him to follow in the family footsteps!

"Although I've never been to Cuba, I started working at age 13 in my father's take-out place, and I've learned the recipes," said Raul. "I'd like to share some of them with you."

He suggested we share a large and rich appetizer of "Canoa," which is a sweet plantain stuffed with ground beef and topped with melted cheese. This was truly melt-in-your mouth delicious, and we couldn't believe the price of only $6. Other Cuban appetizers included the Cuban Tamales, blended with cornmeal and pork, ($6) and the Empanadas De Carne (homemade beef patties), for $4. And don't forget their sides of Fried Green or Sweet Plantains!

Raul also recommended his family recipe of Shrimp Oriente Style, cooked in a Spanish red sauce like his father used to make in Oriente, Cuba. There were seven large and succulent shrimp covered in this spicy red sauce, circling a large mound of tasty yellow rice. We also shared a heaping bowl of their signature dish, Paella, which is served either for one ($21) or two ($39). It had been a long time since I tried this dish, which is one of my personal favorites, and we were not disappointed. The Spanish rice was mixed with an abundant array of chicken, chorizo (sausage), shrimp, mussels, clams, tri-color peppers and onions. Always the spicy food lover, I added a little hot sauce and savored this flavorful combination.

Other authentic Cuban dishes at Havana Beach Club include their Lechon Asado (Pork shoulder roasted for four hours), $12, and their Ropa Vieja (Old Clothes) which is shredded beef with onions and peppers, for $12.

We topped off our meal with Espressos and two of their most special desserts- native Cuban Flan (a creamy custard floating in caramel sauce), and their hottest Latin American dessert, the Tres Leches, white cake soaked in three kinds of milk, and covered in a satiny cream topping. Mouth watering and fantastic!!

Havana Beach Club is open every day for lunch and dinner, from 12:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. On Friday and Saturday nights they have Karaoke with Big Rich, from 9:30 a.m. till 1:00 a.m. For reservations, call 631-668-6677.