Hampton Style - July 27, 2007 -

Shelter Island was purchased from the Manhasset Indians for 1,600 pounds of Barbados sugar in the mid-1600s. Try getting an entree at Sunset Beach for that today! In the following century, Quakers, Methodists, and Protestants sought religious refuge there. These days, nestled between Long Island's two forks and accessible only by ferry, peace is still found in abundance on the island. More than one-third of the 8,000-acre island is owned by the Nature Conservancy and maintained as Mashomack Nature Preserve. Nearby summer houses co-exist happily with swaths of wild grasses, dunes, and horse studs. The residential streets are lined with restored Victorian homes on steep, winding roads. The main center of town has its own hardware store, pharmacy, and village market. There are riding stables, a yacht club, and even a town newspaper, and years ago violinist Itzhak Perlman opened a school for gifted musicians there.

Dining

Vine Street Cafe, 41 South Ferry Road, 631-749-3210, named the jewel of Shelter Island by Zagat Guides, is a tiny roadside traditional American restaurant in the style of a cottage in Provence. The menu relies on local organic ingredients and features sophisticated dishes like miso-glazed salmon with bok choy, a raw bar, and plats du jour like bouillabaisse, duck confit, and whole roasted sea bass. Olde Country Inn, 11 Stearns Point Road, 631-749-1633, serves osso buco with gnocchi, and dover sole meuniere, but if you're in the mood for something low-key, try The Dory, Bridge Street, 631-749-8871, for Cajun catfish or a game of pool. Snag the only $4 burger in town at Pat & Steve's Family Restaurant, 63 North Ferry Road, 631-749-1998. Within walking distance from Coecles Harbor, Planet Bliss, 23 North Ferry Road, 631-749-0053, serves exclusively organic foods and imaginative New-World fare in what was Shelter Island's first post office. The market section features fresh groceries and a juice bar. The Pridwin, 81 Shore Road, 631-749-0476, is located on Crescent Beach and hosts outdoor cookouts every Wednesday with live music and dancing. Two Ed's Seafood Restaurant, 3 North Ferry Road, 631-749-0261, is a casual seafood joint on the water that serves fresh local catches and baby back ribs. For Continental cuisine, Sweet Tomato's, 15 Grand Avenue, 631-749-4114, is open year-round for dining, catering, and parties. West Neck Market, 25 West Neck Road, 631-749-2100, is an old-fashioned German-style delicatessen serving homemade salads, hot and cold sandwiches, groceries, and coffee to go. For lunch in town, try Stars Market Cafe and Coffee Cellar, 17 Grand Avenue, 631-749-3484, for delicious south-of-the-border fare and free-trade Colombian coffee. The grilled marinated steak salad with avacado, cherry tomatoes, onions, and homemade balsamic dressing is sumptuous. Gourmet foods and a rich selection of quality cheeses make the harborfront Island Food Centre, 184 North Ferry Road, 631-749-3558, a popular destination for hungry boaters and party hosts alike. Offering expansive views over Dering Harbor and across to Southampton, A.J.'s On The Hill, Shelter Island Country Club, 29 Sunnyside Ave., 631-749-0416, located on the highest point of Goat Hill Golf Course, serves up traditional American fare. Immerse yourself in country-chic Cafe 27, 27 North Ferry Road, 631-749-2727, for Crescent Farm duck breast with pomegranate glaze and jasmine rice, among other delectable and organic main dishes.

Shops

For women's and children's clothing, and beachwear from Lilly Pulitzer, Calvin Klein, and Anne Cole, try A Summer Place, Bridge Street, 631-749-2374, which is open daily year-round. Bliss Department Store, 186 North Ferry Road, 631-749-0041, has the largest selection of Shelter Island t-shirts and apparel, as well as homewares, linens, toys, beach supplies, and footwear. Sunday, located at Sunset Beach, 631-749-3550, sells upscale designer clothing by Phillip Lim, Paul Smith, and vintage Pucci, while Marie Eiffel Boutique, 8 Grand Avenue, 631-749-0707, specializes in feminine gifts, rarities, and imported fashions. For furniture with a 20th-century sensibility, Home 114, 21 North Ferry Road, 631-749-1811, has a wide selection of specialty pieces as well as an interior-design service. Cornucopia, West Neck Road, 631-749-0171, sells equestrian gifts, baby accessories, jewelry, frames, cards, and Annalee dolls.

Marinas and Ferries
There are no bridges to Shelter Island, so unless you own a boat or are a particularly strong swimmer, then you're going to need these guys to get you there: North Ferry Co. Inc., Shelter Island Heights, 631-749-0139, runs between Greenport on the North Fork and the north side of Shelter Island, or try The South Ferry Company, Route 114, 631-749-1200, which runs between North Haven on the South Fork to the south side of Shelter Island. They take both cars and pedestrians, but given the line of cars in peak months, it may be best to bring a bike. Dering Harbor Marina, 631-749-0045, supplies moorings, showers, and bike rentals. Located next door is Jack's Marine, 188 North Ferry Road, 631-749-0114, which offer moorings for boaters as well as a fully equipped marine supply and toy store.

Galleries and Antiques

For a mix of contemporary and mid-century art, jewelry, and gifts, go to Boltax Gallery, 21 North Ferry Road, 631-749-4062. Wish Rock Studio, 17 Grand Avenue, 631-749-5200, does custom framing and sells fine art by Peter Waldner, sculptures by Peggy Mach, and stained glass by Joe Mure. Or try Marika's, 6 South Ferry Road, 631-749-1168, which sells antique furniture, collectibles and jewelry. Shelter Island Pottery, Manwaring Road, 631-749-1904, sells high-quality stoneware and porcelain pieces, and offers summer adult classes in hand-building and wheel-throwing. Fallen Angel Antiques, Washington Street, 631-749-7801, has been supplying Shelter Island with fine home accessories since 1976.

Accommodations
The Ram's Head Inn, 108 Ram Island Drive, Big Ram Island, 631-749-0811, is a cedar-shingled house overlooking Coecles Harbor with 17 spacious rooms and a restaurant. Built in 1929, the Inn is known for its old New-England charm and hosts a variety of events on weekends, including wine tastings and jazz performances. The Chequit Inn, 23 Grand Avenue, 631-749-0018, built in 1872, is a Victorian country inn located in the island's historic district, Shelter Island Heights. It has a lively downtown atmosphere and restaurant that is open year-round. Try the seared sesame Montauk tuna with baby shrimp or the roast Long Island duck served with a blackberry-brandy glaze. Open year-round, the Belle Crest Inn, 163 North Ferry Road, 631-749-2041, is conveniently located and reasonably priced. Candlelite Inn & Guest House, 3 South Ferry Road, 631-749-0676, situated on 1.5 acres in the middle of Shelter Island, is a 175-year-old Victorian inn with five guestrooms and private baths. Located on Crescent Beach, The Pridwin Hotel, 81 Shore Road, 631-749-0476, offers 40 rooms and 9 heated cottages for comfortable year-round accommodations and provides guests with a swimming pool, tennis courts, a games room, docking, and boat rentals. The Olde Country Inn, 11 Stearns Point Road, 631-749-1633, is walking distance from the beach and has comfortable rooms. Another place to stay year-round is the Beech Tree House, 1 South Ferry Road, 631-749-4252. With a saltwater pool, tennis, dock, and seven acres of land to explore, Dering Harbor Inn, 13 Winthrop Road, 631-749-0900, is a quiet retreat overlooking the water. Situated on a quiet lane overlooking an inlet, The House on Chase Creek, 3 Locust Avenue, 631-749-4379, has four guest rooms with private baths, and a master suite with a fireplace. Sunset Beach, 35 Shore Road, 631-749-2001, offers chic, minimal rooms and a rowdy bar scene, though reservations fill up quickly, so be sure to book early.

For The Kids
Shelter Island Kayak Tours, Route 114 at Duvall's Rd., 631-749-1990, offers guided tours of the island and surrounding waters, and provides boat rentals. At Whale's Tale, 3 Ram Island Rd., 631-749-1839, you can find 32 flavors of Hershey's ice-cream and soft yogurt, a games room, a party room, and the famous stuffed cannoli, plus an 18-hole miniature golf course. Crescent Beach, Shore Rd., 631-749-0291, offers swimming lessons provided by the Town. Paard Hill Farms, 41 Ram Island Rd., 631-749-9462, gives horseback riding lessons, and The Shelter Island Yacht Club, 12 Chequit Ave., 631-749-0888, built in 1886, offers sailing instruction, a restaurant, bar, and mooring rentals. A 2,100-acre preserve with over ten miles of protected coastline, the Mashomack Preserve, Route 114, 631-749-1001, is a place to enjoy the untainted beauty of Shelter Island. They offer nature programs and guided hikes throughout the year.