Hampton Style - September 12, 2008

While it isn't making headlines for celebrity gossip or boasting a billionaire's house bigger than Versailles, the North Fork has a vibrant autumnal energy, thriving arts community and long history of farming. Farm stands, wineries, and restaurants alike bring beach alternatives that are most appropriate after summer's end. Even as we begin to stow away beach chairs and sunblock, seasonal weekend activities like pumpkin picking in the dusty fields and harvest-timely wine tasting at our famous wineries fill the days of tourists and locals alike. The down-home charm that relaxes the air and soothes the summer-frenzied soul comes from clusters of quiet communities and the year-round local residents. Check your New York attitude at the LIE and succumb to the rural lifestyle of small town North Fork, where locals are happy to wave and smile and lend a neighbor a cup of sugar. But be warned, most are highly allergic to rudeness and pretension. Oh, the bucolic North Fork.

Begin your North Fork experience by visiting some of the beloved country-style farm stands. Harbes Family Farm, Sound Ave., Mattituck, 631-298-0800, offers playgrounds, hayrides, pony rides, and farm animals grazing in open pastures. Try to make your way through the annual corn maze, which is always coupled with county-fair-style games. Your Harbes visit wouldn't be complete without trying their renowned "Super-Sweet Roasted Corn" freshly prepared to perfection. Famous for their homemade pies, Wickham's Fruit Farm, 28700 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-6441, offers a huge selection of freshly baked goods prepared with local fruits. You can take a wagon-ride tour around the farm and view the gorgeous landscape while sitting on a bale of hay. They also offer U-pick for a slew of fruits and vegetables, and a lunch area for picnics.

You may recognize Sang Lee Farms, 25180 County Road, Rt 48, Peconic, 734-7001, from their stand in the Westhampton farmers market. This is a quickly evolving farm stand. The proprietors also provide cooking classes, food demonstrations, tomato picking, and cater private parties. Just this summer, owner Karen Lee has teamed up with Borghese Vineyards owner Ann Marie to provide wine and food pairing classes. Featured on shows like Martha Stewart and on the Food Network, it is one of the only local certified organic vegetable farms providing wholesale and specialty produce. Their personal service and friendly staff make this an enjoyable stop. You'll be charmed by any member of the Lee family and might even be lucky enough to run into one of their handsome sons. For the leading seafood distributor on the East End, Brauns, 30840 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-6700, applies the same personal world-wide services in a fish market that offers seasonal lobster, scallops and crabs straight from Long Island waters. An alluring new addition to the business is their take-out section, with a menu that includes cooked seafood meals and sushi-to-go. Known for their homemade pies, Briermere Farms, 4414 Sound Ave., 631-722-3931, has a selection of the classics such as apple and blueberry and a delicious seasonal peach cream pie. Winner of the 2008 American Cheese Society's National Competition, Catapano Dairy Farm, 33705 North Road, Peconic, 631-765-8042, offers for sale varieties of seasonal goat's cheeses made on-site.

Vineyards began replacing potato fields nearly 35 years ago on the North Fork. Today, with the same fertile, sandy loam, the area has become one of the most fruitful wine-producing regions in America, with 60 vineyards covering more than 3,000 acres. The area has been referred to as "Napa Valley East," and the rural setting attracts more and more tourists each year to the nationally acclaimed wineries. When passing the 105 intersection, you'll be welcomed by a sign announcing "Wine Country." Cutchogue, the sunniest town in New York State, with climate and annual rainfall parallel to that in Bordeaux, France, is graced with a 220-day growing season which makes it the prime spot for wineries. Lieb Family Cellars, 35 Cox Neck Rd., Mattituck, 631-298-1942, offers unique varietels, such as the Pinot Blanc and White Merlot. The winery, which has a USDA grant for sustainable farm practices, produces two wines as fund-raisers for non-profit organizations, specifically the September Mission Melot for the 9/11 Memorial and the Syrah Reserve for the Animal Medical Center in New York City. With its first vines being planted in 1978, Lenz Winery, 38355 Main Rd., Peconic, 631-734-6010, boasts some of the oldest merlot vines in North America and has remained one of the area's favorite wineries. It offers a sparkling wine made from Pinot Noir grapes and a wide variety of chardonnay and barbet sauvignon.

At Jamesport Vineyard, Main Rd., Jamesport, 631-722-5256, a wood-shingled, 1850's barn offers visitors the chance to taste wines in a down-to-earth environment. Formerly Hargrave Vineyards, Castello di Borghese Vineyard and Winery, 17150 Alvah's Ln., Cutchogue, 631-734-5111, is a gorgeous winery that hosts dinners, weddings and operas. Surrounded by vineyards and farms, Macari Vineyards & Winery, 150 Bergen Ave., 631-298-0100, is a must for your tasting list. Directly off Route 48, this makes for an easy tasting stop while providing gorgeous views of their vineyards. The wraparound deck and outdoor patio, paired with a friendly staff, make this a perfect venue for private parties. Pugliese Vineyards, 34515 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-4057, set back from the main road, is a charming little building with gardens and a pond. You'll step into a barn-inspired tasting room with high ceilings and walls adorned with work by local photographer Ralph Pugliese, who is famous for his painterly landscapes. An out-of-the mold monastery-style winery and tasting room is Raphael, 39390 Main Rd., Peconic, 631-765-1100, which was the setting of an episode of Donald Trump's "The Apprentice" a few years ago. Owned and operated by the Entenmann family, Martha Clara Vineyards, 6025 Sound Ave., Riverhead, 631-298-0075, plays host to some famous artists and celebrities, including Jimmy Buffett. Peconic Bay Winery, 31320 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-7361, has taken a fresh approach to wine tasting. Outside the newly renovated tasting room is a patio overlooking a sprawling lawn tht affords a charming outdoor experience. Michael Lynne, former co-chair and co-CEO of New Line Cinema, is the owner of Bedell Cellars, 36225 Main Road, Cutchogue, 631-734-7537. Its rosé has been tastebud approved. Lynne also purchased Corey Creek Vineyard, 45470 Main Rd., Southold, 631-765-4168, and the now stand-alone Wells Vineyard in Peconic. Other vineyards on the North Fork include Old Field Vineyards, 59600 Main Rd., Southold, 631-765-0004 and Shinn Estate Vineyards, 2000 Oregon Rd., Mattituck, 631-804-0367.

While enjoying your stay, you won't find any sort of big name chain hotel, but quiet, homey and family-style environments. Experience the history and modern amenities at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn, 400 South Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631-722-2900. From your spacious room, decorated by top designers from the North Fork Showhouse, you can look out on the vast farmland, vineyards, and gardens of the North Fork. Watch the sun set over the fields from the terrace, or sample the local cuisine. The Bartlett House Inn, 503 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-0371, is a quaint Victorian built in 1908. The ten bedrooms have recently been renovated, but the original stained-glass windows and Corinthian columns preserve the historic charm. In the center of town, Harbor Front Inn, 209 Front St., Greenport, 631-677-0707, is directly on the harbor with waterfront views. If you're looking for a romantic getaway, spend the weekend at Arbor View House, 8900 Main Rd., East Marion, 631-477-8440. This quaint bed and breakfast offers extensive spa services, four-course, candle-lit breakfasts and bright, cheery rooms. The closest approximation to a hip hotel is the recently opened spot, The Greenporter, 326 Front St., 631-477-0066, offering mid-century minimalist rooms, a fancy French bistro and bar and in-room spa services.

At The Jamesport Manor Inn, 370 Manor Ln., 631-722-0500, chef Eric Rickmers fashions a seasonal menu with Mediterranean influences. The cozy ambience is created by large bay windows, inviting dining alcoves and fireplaces. Try the house-made basil tagliatelle paired with the porcini dry rubbed sirloin. The Old Mill Inn, 5775 West Mill Rd., Mattituck, 631-298-8080, is housed in a former grist mill on Mattituck inlet. The restaurant at the historic site reopenend under a new group of owners in 2005, including Fox News' Greta Van Susteren, and is a great place to stop by for littleneck clams, stuffed oysters and a Bloody Mary while watching fishing trawlers and sailboats dock at the harbor at sunset. Jedediah Hawkins Inn Restaurant, 400 South Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631-722-2900, serves local tuna and handmade ricotta gnocchi in a country style setting. For a more romantic venue, the subterranean 2,500-bottle wine cellar, constructed from the ballast from Captain Hawkins' legendary ships, serves similar food in a more intimate setting Get a taste of historic Greenport at Claudio's Restaurant, 111 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-0627. Founded in 1870, Claudio's is the oldest family-run restaurant on the North Fork. Try the two-pound lobster, flounder, swordfish, scallops, shrimp, or daily specials. Or for a more casual atmosphere, Claudio's Clam Bar, 111 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-1889, directly on the dock is a great place to watch the boats go by while sipping local wines and sampling dishes made from fresh, seasonal ingredients. You can also bring your own boat and dock it right there. With live music and dancing on the weekends, this is the local hot spot on a Saturday night. Just down the dock at the Chowder Pot Pub, 104 Third Street, Greenport, 631-477-1345, is waterfront outdoor seating and live music on the weekends. Down the street you'll find another boisterous local scene at the Whiskey Wind Tavern, 30-32 Front Street, Greenport, 631-477-6179, where locals can come to play pool and relax in the unpretentious setting. The tavern takes its name from an old fisherman's term. When the weather was too harsh to fish, the most compelling alternative was to head down to the barrooms of Greenport, where fishermen would declare "a whiskey wind is blowing." When the rest of main street is left dining with the crickets, The Frisky Oyster, 27 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-4265, is bustling; Its Japanese-printed walls add to the energy inside and the menu changes daily, with the exception of the country salad and the delicious steak-frites, ensuring that chef and owner Hank Tomashevski's dishes are inspired and fresh. A favorite right now are the oysters "friskafella": the lightly poached shellfish sits on a mound of spinach topped with a dollop of chipotle mayo. Located on historic Preston's Wharf, Scrimshaw, 102 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-8822, serves up fresh seafood with an Asian flair. La Cuvee Wine Bar & Bistro, 326 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-0066, is part of the luxurious hotel, The Greenporter, and serves gourmet spa and French cuisine. For a super healthy and organic lunch, try The Market, 44 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-8003. The thick and juicy porterhouse steak at Cliff's Elbow East, 50 North Sea Dr., Southold, 631-765-1203, is large enough for two or just right for the hungriest carnivores. For mouthwatering burger and fries, stop by O'Mally's, 44780 North Rd., Southold, 631-765-2111, a casual restaurant open 'til midnight. Family owned Italian restaurant, Portobello, 1410 Manhaset Ave., Greenport, 631-477-1515, has returned to its original location from ten years ago.

Overlooking Peconic Bay, Seafood Barge, 62980 Main Rd., Southold, 631-765-3010, serves up local and fresh seafood in a casual atmosphere. The new décor is described by owner Diana Divello as "upscale nautical." Another great Italian place just opened this summer, A Mano, 13550 Main St., Mattituck, 631-298-4800, has taken the place of the Red Door. The renovated space will feature a wood-burning pizza oven and new patio seating. An extensive wine list includes wines from local vineyards as well as from Italy and California. Hellenic Snackbar & Restaurant, 5145 Main Rd., East Marion, 631-477-0138, is the best Greek restaurant around to soothe your post-Greek festival season withdrawal. The Bayview Inn & Restaurant, 10 Front St., South Jamesport, 631-727-2659, located within walking distance of several vineyards and wineries, also serves a wide selection of local wines and the wraparound porch provides an ideal atmosphere for enjoying the native produce and fish. Enjoy the sunset over the Long Island Sound while sipping cocktails at Soundview Restaurant, 57185 Rte. 48, Greenport, 631-477-0666. Choose from fresh seafood dishes on this waterfront restaurant's menu. Lined with Victorian-style wall paper and rugs, The Greenport Tea Company, 119A Main Street, Greenport, 631-477-8744, is a simple place for a quiet lunch. Check out the extensive and authentic collection of teapots, and enjoy high tea with eclectically mismatched tableware that lends an alluring charm. On the surface you might call this merely an exotic tea shop offering homemade foods and an extensive selection of fine, loose-leaf bagged and imported-blend teas. To the experienced patron, however, it's truly an escape from the mundane. The teaware and specialty items come in vivacious colors and the pungent aromas of exotic teas inspire serenity and adventure. Truly an authentic shopping and dining experience. Sports Bar and Grill, Legends, 835 First St., New Suffolk, 631-734-5123, is a local landmark on the North Fork for its casual, fun-loving atmosphere. BBQ Bill's Famous Texas Barbeque, 47 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-2658, has deck seating and waterfront views, not to mention the only BBQ around, like scrumptious ribs and pulled pork. Under the same ownership, but a different theme, Cimino's Ristorante, 62375 Main Rd., Southold, 631-765-5700, gives customers their choice of family-style or single portions at this home-style Italian restaurant. While stepping into North Fork Table & Inn, 7225 Main Rd., Southold, 631-765-0177, notice the clean white surroundings against dark oak flooring and furniture; not to mention the fantastic menu of exceptional American cuisine. The restaurant at Four Doors Down, 10560 Main Rd., Mattituck, 631-298-8311, is a laid-back family place featuring country décor and uses as much local product as possible. On the map since the 1950's this venue has been a local hotspot to generations. If you come by on a weekend night where the welcoming restaurant transforms into an even more welcoming bar, don't be surprised to notice that just about everyone knows everyone else. Featuring fresh, local ingredients, Jamesport Country Kitchen, 1601 Main Rd., Jamesport, 631-722-3537, offers a hearty, "from scratch" menu year-round. Local favorites include grilled shrimp with pesto and smoked mozzarella and salmon cakes with jalapeño tartar sauce. Cutchogue Diner, Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-9056, is a quaint little diner in a rustic, genuine metal trailer. Their waffles are delicious. Relatively new to town, Love Lane Kitchen, 240 Love Ln., Mattituck, 631-298-8989, offers gourmet food in the quaint shop. With outdoor seating in their charming courtyard and noteworthy menu items, it's probably a good idea to make a reservation.

Creations By Lisa, 123 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-9612, keeps its customers up-to- date with trendy clothing and accessories. Just down the street is Calypso, 15 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-2780, offering the best boho-chic items around. Mint, 15 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-6436 and 260 Love Ln., Mattituck, 631-298-8009, features trendy pieces from such high-end lines as Alice + Olivia and Shoshanna, but also carries funky items from up-and-coming designers. If you're having trouble finding a perfect scarf for fall, try knitting one yourself with a little help from Now and Zen, 211 East Front St., Greenport, 631-477-2585. The cozy knitting-supply store offers lessons by appointment and has group knit-ins every Tuesday night from 6 to 8pm. Kate's One Hour Photo & Studio, 19 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-9414, is a shop filled with gorgeous frames and photo albums owned by local photographer Kate who does just about everyone's Christmas cards and family portraits. Well-weathered and wanna-be sailors alike will be more than satisfied with the nautical treasures on offer at Triangle Sea Sales, 36 South St., Greenport, 631-477-1773. Open for more than 30 years, the shop carries old telescopes, naval trinkets and handcrafted ship models. Velvet Elvis, 110 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-2722, features jewelry from Metal Monk, whose pieces range from high-end handcrafted works to less expensive accessories from the Pink Monkey collection. Also sold in the store are large metal sculptures and smaller pieces, such as hand-painted pottery and glassware. Decorated with white walls and oriental rugs, Gloria Jewel, 1560 Main Rd., Jamesport 631-284-3761, a semi-new women's clothing store, carries high end designers like Vine, citizens of humanity, Organic by John Patrick, Minnie Rose and Velvet. Owner Megan will help you find clothes for any sort of occasion. Located in the center of town, Renee's Women's Fashions, Mattituck Plaza, 631-298-4223, has a variety of casual, swim and formal-wear for all ages and is one of the only shops around where you'll find a selection of Lilly Pulitzer clothing. Also, it's conveniently connected to Chaps Corner, 631-298-5048, a men's clothing store that carries suits from Ralph Lauren and Lacoste, Kids Corner, 631-298-9167, and Renee's Home Furnishings, 631-298-4223. For more home décor, Thistlebee's, 27850 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-5362, offers a wide selection of essentials including baby clothes, accessories and bath and body products. Whoa! Nellie!, 1572 Main Rd., Jamesport, 631-722-8509, brings you back to the good ol' days with vintage signs, saltwater taffy and Nancy Drew mysteries. Inspired by a European Marketplace, La Ferme De La Mer, 95 Love Ln., Mattituck, 631-298-4646, offers beautiful iron and handmade mosaic furniture, pottery, tableware, glassware and home décor that will transform your home and lifestyle. If you're looking for that perfect gift, Verbena, 123 Main Street, Greenport, 631-477-4080, has a random assortment of gorgeous home items, fabulous rustic jewelry and quirky items that are unique to the store's fun-loving atmosphere. If you're looking for rare books, The Book Scout, 126 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-8536, will help you find what you're looking for if you can't find it among its vast collection of used books. Hippie enthusiasts look no further; Kharmah, 123 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-2638, has natural fiber clothing and unique accessories to flaunt that crunchy authenticity. Old Country Charm, 53995 Route 25, Southold, 631-765-3940, has both fine jewelry and fun costume jewelry so you'll find what you need for any occasion. For classic memorabilia, Summer Girl, 775 First St., New Suffolk, 631-734-5698, has tees, decorations and gifts for a bona fide North Fork representation.

Dennis McDermott promotes integrated wellness at his yoga studio, Temple Yoga Center, 430 Main St., Greenport, 631-320-0035, housed in a former Masonic Temple. Owner Chrissy Viola spreads her enthusiasm at local gym, Synchronicity, 320 Depot Ln., Cutchogue, 631-734-4042, where she also offers personal training and fun fitness classes. The relatively new Fitness Advantage, 45655 County Rd., Southold, 631-765-4015, boasts up-to-date equipment in a high-energy environment. Or for a much larger gym space, Ultimate Fitness East, 1101 Old Country Rd., Riverhead, 631-369-6293, is a giant underground workout facility. After the gym, head down to Luna Mesa Day Spa, 1116 Main Rd., Aquebogue, 631-722-5215 for a relaxing massage. At New Beginnings East, 46950 County Rd. 48, Southold, 631-765-5035, Katie Smith lends her young, fresh take and experienced talent for a fantastic hair experience. Dellaquila Beauty, 1451 Main Rd., Jamesport, 631-722-5500, is a full service salon that will transform you for any event. Paul Izak Hair Salon, 55 Rte. 48, Suite 7, Mattituck, 631-298-1119, offers every aspect of beauty service in addition to professional spray tans to extend your summer glow.

On the third Saturday of every month through December 20, from 6-9pm, art enthusiasts gather for the "Greenport Gallery Walk," where a strip of Greenport Galleries open their doors for an evening of gallery-hopping. Starting with Orin Kimball Studio, 818 Main St., 631-477-2758, which features limited edition photo-based contemporary fine art, then on to deCordova Studio & Gallery, 538 Main St., 631-477-0620, where they have new exhibitions each month representing local and international artists. The third gallery, The Siren's Song Gallery, 516 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-1021, features limited edition prints, paintings, sculpture and offers etching press, studio rental, and workshops for printmakers. Winterharbor Studio Gallery, 471 Main St., 631-241-5068, showcases eclectic East End photography from locals Julia Mitarotondo, Lucy Senesac and many others. Also featuring local photography just next door is, The Light Registry, 429 Main St., 631-477-2153. Just across the street, Atelier Decorative & Fine Arts, 308A Main St., 631-477-3280, does murals, decorative painting and classes. For wearable art, jewelry, and unique contemporary crafts, the next stop on this Gallery Walk is Gallery M, 407 Main St., 631-477-9496. In addition to a mix of photography and painting, Clawflowers, 405 Main St., 631-477-2623, also sells exotic flowers and unique plants. For twenty years now, Artist's Gallery, 403 Main St., 631-477-8555, has been representing Haitian artists. Gorgeous dockside gallery, Terrence Joyce Gallery, 114 Main St., 631-477-0700, collects prints by artists who work in a range of disciplines. See art exhibitions, join workshops, and attend events at the historic South Street Gallery, 18 South St., 631-477-0021. Finish up the "Greenport Gallery Walk" at L'Orangerie Fine Art Gallery, 633 First St., 631-477-2633, where they specialize in landscape paintings and custom framing. Coming in the next season, North Fork Community Theatre, 12700 Old Sound Ave., Mattituck, 631-298-NFCT (6328), will be holding shows such as "Sound of Music" and "Guys and Dolls." For interesting and unique furniture, toys and clocks, stop by Antiques and Old Lace, 31935 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-6462. Collectibles, folk art, jewelry and consignments fill the shelves of Shearer Shop Antiques, 425 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-1357. Native Greenporter Rich Fiedler showcases his landscape paintings at Fiedler Gallery, 207 Main St., Greenport, 641-477-4242. Original oils, acrylics, watercolors, pastels, pen and inks, sculptures, hooked rugs, photography and limited edition prints from other local artists are also on display.

For a rainy day activity, Atlantis Marine World, 431 East Main St., Riverhead, 208-9200, Long Island's full-scale aquarium, is the perfect destination, including exotic sea creatures, seal shows and interactive progrems. Poseidon's Peak & Playground includes a 25-foot rock climbing wall and the brave kids and adults might even venture into the shark diving cage. Check out the Railroad Museum of Long Island, Riverhead Ave., 631-727-7920. In addition to their collection of real antique rail cars, one specific feature is the world's first double-decker. East End Seaport Maritime Museum, Third St., Greenport, 631-477-2100, explores the history of Greenport, focusing on the huge fishing presence. Built in the 1920's, the Antique Carousel, Front St., Greenport, 631-477-2200, is a fully functioning ride located in Mitchell Park right on the water. As kids ride around on colorful figures, an exciting element of the experience is to try to catch the golden ring to win a free ride. Greenport Skatepark, Moores Ln., Greenport, 631-477-1133, offers a place for kids to show their skills in the skateboard, inline skate and BMX bike park. Peconic County Miniature Train, Webb St., Greenport; open Sundays from 1-4pm through September, the ride follows a path of rails that is extremely exciting for train enthusiasts. A quintessential storybook candy store, Love Lane Sweet Shoppe, 125 Love Ln., Mattituck, 631-298-2276, has two full candy counters; one a complete Godiva collection. They also have a gift section, greeting cards, and a book of wedding invitations from which to choose. Relatively new, B's Treats, 28320 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-5223, is a small family-owned shop specializing in handmade chocolate and fudge. They concoct imaginative treats such as chocolate covered gummy bears, marshmallows and Oreos, and stock hard-to-find retro candy to remind you of your childhood. A summertime classic, Magic Fountain, 9825 Main Rd., Mattituck, 631-298-4908, has seasonal ice cream flavors like pumpkin for the fall, ice cream cakes and delicious milkshakes; known best for serving homemade ice cream. With retro '50s décor, timely red booths and black and white tile floors, Scoops Ice Cream Shoppe, 28080 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-734-6331, invites you to be entertained by an authentic juke box in their eating room.

Overlooking the Peconic River Estuary, Indian Island Country Club, 661 Riverside Dr., Riverhead, 631-727-0788, is a public golf course that offers a challenging but fair round. Out east, Island's End Golf and Country Club, Route 25, Greenport, 631-477-8190, is a semi-private golf course since 1965. Neighboring courses Cherry Creek Golf Links Golf Course, 900 Reeves Ave., Riverhead, 631-369-6500 and The Woods Golf Course, 967 Reeves Ave., Riverhead, 631-506-0777, both share similar environmental views as well as a similar restaurant. Long Island National Golf Club, 1793 Northville Tpke., Riverhead, 631-727-4653, is a relative newcomer to the area. Comparable to a links course, the most frustrating albeit challenging part is no doubt the enormous fescue. Finally, if you're not up for a full 18, a fun little par three, Cedars Golf Course, 305 Cases Ln., Cutchogue, 631-734-6363, welcomes the less serious golfer to rent clubs and hack around.