If you ask the informed for a Long Island wine recommendation, of the suggestions thrown your way, one name will almost invariably be "Paumanok." And rightfully so. The only remaining original owner-managed vineyard on the North Fork, Paumanok is a family-estate affair that involves over 80 acres of grapes, a welcoming tasting room and vine-view deck, and vintages that are consistently respectful to the Old Country. Kareem Massoud, the second-generation winemaker here, took over from his father, Charles, one of the Island's pioneer vignerons. Kareem is patient and precise with his blends, expertly nurturing the process without getting in the way. Stellar examples include a Sancerre-style, restrained sauvignon blanc and a Loire-leaning, crisp Chenin Blanc-both are eminently quaffable with fresh local seafood. Nothing too buttery or woody or over-handled here. If you taste something that grabs you, buy at least a case-with their limited-release quota, you'll only kick yourself if you don't. Apart from the quality of their product, the Massoud family are esteemed for their commitment to the preservation of the Island's farmlands.

This small-scale artisanal winery is earning big attention for creating bold, Old World-style wines. The luxury of being this boutique is that exposure and mass-distribution are never high on the agenda, and it shows in the glass-the wines here taste special and favored and lovingly nurtured. With some of the oldest vines in the district, Lenz is esteemed for its Old Vine Gewürztraminer (a bottle can be hard to get your hands on), smooth and velvety cabernet sauvignon, and examplary Alsace-style sparkling varieties. Winemaker Eric Fry may look like a hippie but he's really a master, so don't let his Big Lebowski-esque appearance fool you. Favoring Burgundian techniques, this is one man who knows his wine. Don't drive past this rough diamond. For a low-labor, high-return dinner, grab some local oysters and a bottle of sparkling cuvée before you leave the Fork.

The namesake winery of one of the region's most celebrated winemakers, Kip Bedell, was purchased by film executive/art collector Michael Lynne in 2000. After a heavy injection of capital, Bedell is a big, shiny showcase, with boundless vines and tasting rooms that double as a revolving art gallery. But it's not style over substance here-they are a serious contender in the bottle department. The 2006 Musée, Bedell's signature red blend, was just named Best Red in New York State at the 2008 Wine & Food Classic, and their white blend, Gallery, is every bit as good. Don't overlook their benchmark merlot, either. The film Sideways hurt the consumption of merlot in this country, but it's worth noting that it was the heavily planted, poorly handled merlots of California that really besmirched its reputation-East Coast merlot is a whole different story.

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