Don't shed a tear for the diminishing potato farms of the North Fork. They have retired to a far more romantic existence-as the fertile and temperate breeding grounds for the wines of Long Island. No disrespect to the humble spud, but if you could produce a crop of potatoes or a vintage of cabernet sauvignon, which would you opt for? Now, scattered across what was originally farmland on the northern prong of the island, myriad North Fork vineywards are starting to garner attention as more than just high-end hobby projects.

Photograph by Jake Rajs

People say you can smell money when you drive through the Hamptons, while over on the North Fork, you wind down your windows and you can smell... the country. There are farmers and pie-stands and porches with swinging seats, even tractors chugging down the highway-yes, this is the less manicured rural belt of the island, but don't think for a minute you've left sophistication behind. No longer just a down-home daytrip for Hamptonites, the North Fork is fast becoming a one-stop gourmand destination. Oyster farms, free-ranging bison, Peconic Bay scallops, Long Island ducks, world-class pies, organic Asian greens ... and you can now get top-shelf local wine to wash it all down.

North Fork meteorology has long been hailed by wine-industry experts as being just as ideal for vintners as it is for farmers. The area's temperate conditions have been compared to the premier grape-growing regions of Europe, but some map cross-referencing is required. Flaunting the cool, moderate climate of a maritime region, the North Fork lacks intense sunshine, is a tad temperamental, but the slow-to-rise ocean temperatures ensure a warm fall, and are key to good fruit flavor. The Bordeaux red varieties of merlot, carbernet sauvignon and cabernet franc can be robust but elegant here, while the white grapes of the Loire may also be a vibrant and authentic reminder.

The sandy terroir has a fast-draining quality, which allow for the vines to be planted on flat farming land, rather than the hilly landscapes some regions require to drain, thereby eliminating a soggy harvest. Even though the first vines were planted here more than 35 years ago, it seems that technique and innovation have caught up with the fine weather, and people are beginning to notice some world-class wines being produced here.

With such stellar vineyards as Paumanok-applauded for its character-driven performers and quality Chenin Blanc, in particular-or Lenz-producing impressive Old-World-style varieties-just a short car-ride away, there is the casual luxury of pooling some friends and planning your own tasting tour. If you don't have a teetotalling driver along for the ride, it might be worth the waste of spitting; the local vineyard staff are friendly and generous, and one can feel a tad rosy-cheeked before the day is out. And anything to spare yourself an organized wine tour... If anyone's ever spent the day traveling in a cramped mini-van with wine-boffins talking mouthfeel and soil pH, you'll know it doesn't end well. "Sharpened corkscrew, anyone?"

For those vinophiles who have trekked the Napa Valley wine country, you may remember being aghast at the amusement-park-scale of some West Coast tasting rooms (really, should you trust a wine from a vineyard sporting valet parking and a souvenir shop?). Thankfully, the North Fork establishments are mostly a charmingly pared-back bunch in comparison, yet don't be mistaking them for no wine hicks-within these reconditioned barns are shiny, stainless-steel wine laboratories. Oh yes, Long Island wines have come a long way from a wooden table and a spittoon.

An escape to the North Fork can be a real treat to the palate, and as you drive past the rolling fields of corn crops and fruit orchards, you can't help but be charmed by the orderly, mystical rows of grapevines heading off into the horizon... Finally enjoying their place in the sun.

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