Hampton Style - July 25, 2008

The quaint, unspoiled hamlet of Amagansett sits at the throat of the South Fork, where Long Island funnels into Montauk. The town proper is a puny, two-block strip of grass-roots stores, markets and antique haunts. The surrounding land has double dunes, open vistas and the bizarre lunar landscape of Napeague spotted with fish farms and shacks on stilts. Funky modern homes line the shore and older estate homes from 17th-century settlers are preserved in the Bell Estate. Sure, there are some mansions here and there, and more bigwig money hanchos and movie stars than an Altman cast. It even ranked fifth on Forbes' annual list of the most expensive zip codes in the world-surpassing Sagaponack and Southampton. But the hamlet has remained relatively low-key throughout the years thanks to strict preservation laws and a proactive Town Board. It's the kind of place where the local barber charges $9 for a haircut and Labrador Retrievers roam freely down Main Street. Baymen traul stripers in Gardiner's Bay, where Paul McCartney has been known to kayak.

La Fondita, 74 Montauk Hwy., 631-267-8800, is a wee roadside shack in dashing blue, where simple regional Mexican take-out, cold cervezas and a funky garden area out back is ideal for a post-beach drive-by or an early casual dinner. Rotating daily specials like chicken flautas and chorizo quesadillas are offered alongside traditional tamales, tortas and fish tacos with chipotle. Bring home dinner for the family or pack a picnic to Atlantic Beach, which is just down the road.

Mary's Marvelous, 209 Main St., 631-267-8796, is Amagansett's take on the upscale gourmet eatery; think Zabar's without pretense or huge prices. The produce is fresh, the preparation immaculate and everything's baked in-house: from scones, smoothies and steel-cut oatmeal to"Eggs Columbian" and overstuffed sandwiches. A splattering of sautés, fresh pea soup, the teriyaki chicken breasts are favorites, and they've mastered the proportions of the Cobb salad. This place is as local as it gets and Mary's always there to give a treat to your dog. Patrons are devoted so expect a crowd spilling out onto the sidewalk come August, even a few stragglers at the door come closing. Housed in a sleek, lofted barn space, The Meeting House, 4 Amagansett Square Dr., 631-267-2764, serves reliably inventive dishes of "American-Mediterranean comfort food." The seafood options are the superior choice here, like pan-seared scallops and fresh halibut, but gruyere-baked mac and cheese or home-style meatloaf are more indulgent alternatives. The boisterous bar scene attracts 30-somethings and outdoor seating makes it kid-friendly. Food quality is comparable to The Laundry, but it's cheaper and more intimate. Good first-date spot.The Hamptons can be a soulless place but count on bucolic Amagansett to find the antidote with Hampton Chutney, Amagansett Sq., 631-267-3131. With Indian-chant music, a gurgling zen fountain and addictive Indian dishes, even type-A New Yorkers tolerate yogis and the scent of patchouli to eat here. And it's all for the dosa, which owner Gary MacGurn studied in India for 14 years to perfect-a crisp, paper-thin lentil crepe filled with such choices as potato masala or chicken curry.

After a day surfing, beachy people flock to this shanty by the sea, affectionately known as Lunch, 1980 Montauk Hwy., 631-267-3740, for fresh lobster rolls, fish and chips, puffers (blowfish) and grilled tuna. It's a fun spot for drinks after the beach, but keep your orders simple.

Felice's Restaurant, 237 Main St., 631-267-3339, is a family-style Italian eatery. If you like spicy, try their Fra Diavolo sauce and Astro's Pizza is now located inside so grab a quick slice. Café on Main, 195 Main St., 631-267-2200, is an informal "spoon" - a no-nonsense diner with decent fries, slow service and coffee refills. If you're in the mood to entertain at home, The Art of Eating, 74 Montauk Hwy., 631-267-2411, is a catering and event-planning service with a fusion menu offering everything from artichoke risotto cakes to mini duck taquitos.

This year, Cherrystones, 277 Pantigo Rd., 631-324-9020, took over the former Snowflake and offers take-out or eat-in lobster, fish and chicken in a kid-proof environment. Taking over Mt. Fuji's space this year is Show Win, 40 Montauk Hwy., 631-267-7600.

On a bumpy dirt road in back country Napeague, among huts and osprey nests, is a delapitated, sheet metal barn nestled on a bluff called the Fish Farm, 429 Cranberry Hole Rd., 631-267-3341. It once served as a menhaden fertilizer plant but added a few battered tables and low picket fence years ago to keep out the attack-geese. Frankly, it's a post-Apocalypse dumping ground on the bay-strange, eerie, yet beautiful. Deliverance in the Hamptons, but a surprisingly good date destination for girls that don't mind some grit in the mussels. You get your food fresh from a ramshackle kiosk overrun by cats where local fish names are scribbled on a chalkboard. Bring a sweatshirt, twenty bucks, a bottle of booze and bug spray. Menu selections vary with what's freshest: scallops with thin shavings of preserved lemons, lobster pot pie, coconut squid, striped bass terrine, hot dogs for children, grilled swordfish, seafood stew, steamed seafood platters, oysters and mussels. If this all sounds too weird for you, nearby is the Amagansett Seafood Store, 517 Montauk Hwy, 631-267-6015.

The Art Barge, Napeague Meadow Rd., 631-267-3172, has been an artists' sanctuary since the early 60s, and is housed in a retired World War I navy barge perched on the blustery dunes of Napeague Harbor. It was founded by Victor D'Amico, the Former Director of Education at MoMA, who personally towed the vessel ashore in 1960, where it still stands today, offering classes and workshops in oil painting, sculpture, solar plate printing and photography. Open figure drawing classes are offered every Wednesday for the surprisingly reasonable price of $15 and esteemed artists come in to teach over the course of the summer. Pamela Williams Gallery, 67 Main St., 631-267-7817, is a contemporary local gallery with lively openings all summer and through the fall. Williams, known for her curatorial vision, flair and stable of talented artists' work, is a respected art dealer in the area. Melora Griffis is the next show to exhibit. Her paintings are wrought with tension, sexuality, human wreck and painted with gusto. Artist's Woods, 403 Abrahams Path, 631-267-7909, is 16 acres of woods and art facilities for a year-round art school with a gallery, gardens, contemporary and retrospective fine art shows.

Crazy Monkey, 136 Main St., 631- 267-3627, is another Amagansett artist collective and Amagansett Applied Arts, 11 Indian Wells Hwy., 631-267-6278, teaches workshops and runs a camp in a big red barn. Miss Amelia's Cottage, 129 Main St., 631-267-3020 contains collections of furniture made by the Dominy family and is the home built in 1725. Located on the same property, Roy K. Lester Carriage Museum, 129 Main St. at Windmill Ln., 631-267-3020 contains thirty carriages from the old days. Balasses House Antiques, 208 Main St., 631-267-3032, deals in English and French country antiques and specializes in oversized country tables. Decorum, 248 Main St., 631-267-4040 is best known for its selection of French country 18th centruy pieces but also sells vintage and new home accessories.

Rube, 156 Main St., 631-267-6117, is sleek and very high-design; alarmingly modern it is nonetheless a welcome addition this year. Linen shirts, beach dresses and hand stitched bikinis are pieces in the elegant sportswear line and leather accessories, art books, vintage Rolexes and a fragrance bar add to the eclectic boutique. Also new this year is Mixed Media, Amagansett Sq., 631-267-0123, which has high-end art supplies and impeccable aesthetics, but the prices are hefty and things add up quickly. The eponymous store of Daniel Burns and Jarlath Mellett, Jarlathdan, 303 Main St., 631-267-6455, fuse fashion and interior design in their edgy boutique, which specializes in reinterpreted vintage, cool wallpaper, modern furniture and lighting.

Teelia Peploe, 137B Main St., 212-518-6748, is yet another novel establishment this year. Offerings include versatile summer dresses, tie-dyed silks with hand-beaded details, flirty sandals and Chinese embroideries, among other things boho. Ms. Peploe gave up nursing to start her own line of fashion and travel the world, now selling her own designs as well as items from Pucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Hanai Mori and Hermes. Reeds Photo Shop, 4 Amagansett Sq. Dr., 631-324-1067, provides a multitude of photography services including film and digital developing, custom framing, portrait sessions and graphic design services. Housed in a sleek, 1000-square-foot retail space, the converted 1720s farmhouse became the home for the offshoot of Linda Sylvester's lifestyle store in Sag Harbor called Sylvester & Co., 154 Main St., 631-267-9777. The venue is referred to as the modern take on a general store, with rustic, exposed beams and a porch in front. The merchandise focuses on interiors but you'll find everything from placemats in rainbow colors to bamboo sheets, cookies and work by local artists. Browse the shelves at local favorite Bookhampton, Amagansett Sq., 631-267-5405, for anything from local guides to trashy beach reads, classics or best-sellers. The airy blue yet homey book mecca has two resident cats sprawled across the shelves at any given time and hosts readings by local authors.

Hither Hills State Park, Old Montauk Hwy, 631-267-2554 is a beautiful hiking spot with walking dunes, trails and wildlife. Nearby, Napeague stretch, kiteboard mecca, is ground for SkyWalk Kiteboarding, 631-324-4450, www.skywalkkiteboarding.com, which offers instruction and equipment for eager beginners, experienced boarders or anyone between. Also great physical trainers, instructors and local experts on the environment are David Rees and Ed Cashin of Weekend Warriors, 631-267-2274, who offer kayak trips all over the East End and launch around Amagansett frequently for group paddles. Stony Hills Stables, 268 Town Ln., 631-267-3203, is one of the favored equestrian establishments, with hidden stables, rustic walking trails and formal show training rings. If you're not Devon Yacht Club stock, Hither Hills Tennis, 47 Montauk Hwy., 631-267-8525, public courts are an inexpensive facility in town. For a more mellow workout, Mandala Yoga and Dance Center, Amagansett Sq., 631-267-6144, has a wide variety of yoga classes and is known for its local staff of instructors. Body Tech, 249 Main St., 631-267-8222, is a small, relatively unintimidating fitness center with friendly trainers and old school treadmills. (Even the gym in this town feels more palatable than most.) New Image Fitness, 34 Devon Landing, 631-267-5744, provides less of a familial setting but offers a wide selection of new equipment. Sportswear is sold at the oh-so-crunchy gear-head stores in town: Outdoors of Amagansett, 171 Main St., 631-267-3620; Amagansett Beach and Bicycle, 624 Montauk Hwy., 631-267-6325.