Your gears automatically shift as you set foot on Shelter Island; time seems to slow and traffic follows suit. Nestled between the North and South Forks, the geographically isolated and intentionally insular community is an oasis from the buzzing Hamptons set. While the gingerbread architecture of the Heights and Riviera-feel of Crescent Beach draw a bevy of Euros and Hamptonites each summer, the town remains sleepy at heart. Billy Joel was rumored to have perused the Carey Estate on the south side of the island, but was deflected by the unusually high price tag. Whether the asking price was intentionally inflated remains elusive, but the un-Hamptons Hampton, as it's known among East Enders, resists gentrification to this day-much to the delight of year-round residents.

Dining and Food

For a hearty home-cooked Shelter Island meal, sit on the outdoor patio (it's BYOB) at Commander Cody's, 41 Smith St., 631-749-1851, where chef Jimmy prepares savory Southern-style dishes like tender spare ribs that fall off the bone and fried shrimp with homemade tartar sauce. Fresh cooked seafood and hydroponics waft from the convivial establishment, and patrons make sure to pat the black lab, Frankie, at the entrance. Another source for great local grub is Two Ed's, 3 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-0261, a laidback tavern which serves traditional pub fare. If you prefer to cook at home, Bob's Fish Market, 87 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-0830, has a selection of fish fresh from the docks. Make sure to try the signature dish, Bob's Bluefish, which is broiled with melted blue cheese on top, if you're eating at the restaurant. New on the scene this summer is Luna, 85 North Ferry Road, 631-749-5091, which serves Spanish-American fusion cuisine in an intimate setting. Boldly taking on the property that has endured a two-year curse, the new proprietors have created a charming setting with cream-colored drapes and a quaint front porch. Come midnight, however, the coy restaurant morphs into a nightclub with a DJ mixing up '70s, salsa and dance music. Before the late-night bar crowd settles on The Dory, 185 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-4300, the eatery serves Cajun catfish and pub fare in a casual setting. A friendly vibe radiates from the buttercup-yellow dining room at Sweet Tomato's, 15 Grand Avenue, 631-749-4114, which specializes in classic Italian dishes. Embrace your inner hippie at Planet Bliss, 23 North Ferry Road, 631-749-0053, and feast on exclusively organic dishes like delectable fish tacos and choose from an assortment of fizzy fruit beverages to drink.

On Wednesday evenings, the all-you-can-eat barbecues at the Pridwin, 81 Shore Road, 631-749-0476, are a local favorite and guaranteed blast. Housed in a rustic-chic cottage with exposed beam ceilings, Vine Street Café, 41 South Ferry Road, 631-749-3210, offers a sophisticated menu with such savory dishes as miso-glazed salmon with jasmine rice and spicy tuna summer rolls. For an intimate dinner, sit on the wrap-around porch at Café 27, 27 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-2727, or, for a more laid-back environment, grab a tasty burger from the tavern at The Chequit Inn, 23 Grand Ave., 631-749-0018. For formal waterside dining, the Rams Head Inn, 108 Ram Island Dr., 631-749-0811, is a lovely choice. After a round of golf, head to Goat Hill Grill, 29 Sunnyside Ave., 631-749-0416, for traditional rustic fare and cold beers. Lunch joints make up a major portion of the Island's eateries and here are a few tips: The bacon, egg and cheese from the counter of the Shelter Island Heights Pharmacy, 19 Grand Avenue, 631-749-0445, is guaranteed to cure your hangover, or if you're not craving grease, Star's, 17 Grand Avenue, 631-749-5345, has a delicious shrimp and avocado salad and a range of Spanish-inspired wraps, paninis and salads. A few steps down the street is the newly opened market café, Sunflower Marketplace, 13 Grand Ave., 631-749-0196, which offers organic produce and tasty wraps. Greeny's, 55A North Ferry Road, 631-998-3744, also new this year, offers a variety of organic wraps, salads, shakes and produce. Reddings, 184 North Ferry Rd., 631-504-6080, has a tough name to live up to (it's replacing the former and very popular Island Food Centre), but so far, a growing following of foodies is stopping by the newly renovated space which features a cotton-candy machine, a selection of gelati, and prepared lunch food such as fried oysters; it's not exactly bang for your buck but the food is worthy. You'll find great barbecue-brunch at OnShore, 13 Winthrop Rd., 631-749-2300, where seafood and meats are cooked to order. Primo Pizza, 53 North Ferry Road, 631-749-2732, hails as the sole source of pizza on the island, and for a guilty indulgence, try a cherry limeade from John's Grill, 34 North Ferry Road. 631-749-5393; this sinfully sweet beverage hearkens back to the blissful sugar comas of your childhood. Pat & Steve's, 63 North Ferry Road, 631-749-1998, is the Island's closest approximation to a corporate eatery-a diner, and a good one. If you want to pack a picnic for the beach, both Fedi's, 43 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-1177, and West Neck Market, 25 West Neck Road., 631-749-2100, prepare traditional deli-style sandwiches. Right next door to Fedi's is Dandy Liquors, 43 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-3302; so wash down turkey on rye with a glass of rosé. If you're in the Heights, Shelter Island Wines and Spirits, 179 North Ferry Road., 631-749-0305, is another good option.

Ferries and Marinas

Vacationing on Shelter Island might be compared to visiting your mother's house: you're all grown-up but still have a curfew. Without any bridges to the mainland, all off-Island excursions are regulated by two ferry companies at opposite ends of 114. Make sure to check their respective schedules to avoid spending the night in your car. The South Ferry Company, 135 South Ferry Rd., 631-749-1200, takes you from the south side of Shelter Island to North Haven. To get to Greenport and the North Fork, take the North Ferry Co. Inc., 12 Summerfield Pl., 631-749-0139. If you have your own boat, there are several places to dock: The Island Boatyard, 63 South Menantic Rd., 631-749-3333, is a full-service boatyard and marina which fronts West Neck Bay. Coecles Harbor Marina & Boatyard, 18 Hudson Ave., 631-749-0700, is on the eastern side of the island and, along with a boisterous bar scene, provides easy access to both the North and South Forks. Dering Harbor Marina, 178 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-0045, supplies moorings, showers and bike rentals, and next door is Jack's Marine, 188 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-0114, which, in addition to having moorings, has a toy store.

Shops

Luxury Italian-goods importer Orabella Scarano, 21 North Ferry Road, 631-749-5440, opened this year and offers an alluring collection of designer swimwear. During the colder months, store-owner Lindsey Hoffman stocks designer hosiery and lingerie. Like Mary Poppins's carpet bag, A Summer Place, 183 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-2374, tucks a large selection of apparel into a tiny space. Lilly Pulitzer and swimwear by Calvin Klein are available, and a rainbow of Jack Rogers sandals, nautical sweaters and belts embroidered with the shape of the island. Across the street at Bliss' Department Store, 186 North Ferry Road, 631-749-0041, you'll find a large selection of Shelter Island T-shirts and apparel, in addition to beach toys, shoes and housewares. Sunday, 35 Shore Rd., 631-749-3550, located at Sunset Beach, carries a bevy of coveted designers like 3.1 Phillip Lim and Chloé. At Coastal Cottage, 11 Grand Ave., 631-749-2544, you'll find a tasteful selection of beach-perfect furnishings and decorations. For handpicked eclectica, Home 114, 21 North Ferry Road, 631-749-1811, is a boutique furnishing store with a 20th-century modernist sensibility. Among the featured designers are Hanz Wegner, Paul McCabb, George Nelson and Milo Baughman, all selected with the discriminating eyes of co-owners Fred Bernstein and Jason Lasser. When picking up a gift for your host, visit Shelter Island Florist, 9 Grand Ave., 631-749-2264, which will indulge your fancy, whether it be peonies galore or hydrangea arrangements.

Accommodation

Just walking distance from the beach is the Olde Country Inn, 11 Stearns Point Rd., 631-749-1633, a cozy mock Victorian inn with a charming wrap-around porch. The Rams Head Inn, 108 Ram Island Dr., 631-749-0811, is a cedar-shingled house overlooking Coecles Harbor and has 17 rooms from which to choose. Built in 1929, it's known for its New England charm and hosts a variety of weekend events, including wine tastings and jazz performances. Nestled on a quiet lane overlooking an inlet is the House on Chase Creek, 3 Locust Ave., 631-749-4379, which has four guest rooms and a master suite with a fireplace. Smack in the middle of the island is the 175-year-old home, the Candlelight Inn & Guest House, 3 South Ferry Rd., 631-749-0676, which has five guest rooms and sits on an acre and a half of quiet, open land. Perched above Crescent Beach is The Pridwin, 81 Shore Rd., 631-749-0476, offering 40 rooms in the main house and nine cottages. With a saltwater pool, tennis courts and a dock at the Dering Harbor Inn, 13 Winthrop Rd., 631-749-0900, the establishment makes for a seaside getaway. For affordable, year-round B&Bs, the Belle Crest Inn, 163 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-2041, and the Beech Tree House, 1 South Ferry Rd., 631-631-749-4252, are both alluring options.

Galleries and Antiques

Marika's, 6 South Ferry Road, 631-749-1168, offers a wide range of antique and retro furniture. At Shelter Island Pottery, 6 Manwaring Road, 631-749-1904, potter Barbara Wright offers fine functional stoneware and porcelain, and a variety of classes are taught throughout the summer. At Fallen Angel Antiques, Washington Street, 631-749-0243, you'll find prints, folk art, country and Asian antiques, as well as an assortment of antique jewelry. Wish Rock Studio, 17 Grand Avenue, 631-749-5200, offers artwork by Peter Waldner, Peggy Mach, Debbie Raffelock and Joe Mure, and for cutting-edge contemporary and mid-century art, boltax.gallery, 21 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-4062, has impressive exhibitions.

Activities and Clubs

Shelter Island Kayak Tours, 21 North Ferry Rd., 631-749-1990, offers guided tours of the island and its surrounding waters as well as boat rentals. There are several tennis facilities; the Heights Tennis Courts, Shelter Island Heights, 631-749-8897, are available by paying at the courts (the honor system). Lessons are available from former professional Malian player Moussa Dramé and his protégé, Boubacar Keita, at the Moussa Dramé Tennis Club, 81 Shore Rd., 631-749-0799. Almost one third of Shelter Island is nature reserve, so to neglect these resources, like Mashomack Preserve, 79 South Ferry Rd., 631-749-1001, would deign ungrateful. There are four trails to walk, extensive bird-watching, and miles of unspoiled wilderness. If you're not such an outdoors-type, Suzette Smith offers private and small-group instruction at The Pilates Studio, 8 Grand Ave., 631-749-5042. There are two golf courses are on the island as well: the Shelter Island Country Club, 26 Sunnside Ave., 631-749-0416, a nine-hole certified course, is open to the public. Gardiner's Bay Country Club, 12 Dinah Rock Rd, 631-749-1319, is an 18-hole private links course. Bring the kids to play mini-golf at the Whale's Tale, 3 Ram Island Rd., 631-749-1839, where you can choose from 32 flavors of ice cream after your game. Exclusive for members of the Heights community is the Shelter Island Beach Club, 21 Summerfield Pl., 631-749-8869, a life-guarded club with private lockers and cabanas next to the North Ferry Landing. Paard Hill Farms, 41 Ram Island Rd., 631-749-9462, offers horse-back riding lessons, and kids can learn to sail at the Shelter Island Yacht Club, 12 Chequit Ave., 631-749-0888, where there's also a restaurant and bar for members.

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