Hampton Style - August 29, 2008 -

As windows are shuttered and chilly air begins to nip at the neck, Sag Harbor remains bustling and lively through the autumn and deep into snowy winters, its cinematic Main Street seemingly busy as ever. The Bay Street Theatre, the art-house cinema and the independent bookstores mark the town as a cultural center, while the yachts (Barry Diller and Diane von Furstenberg moor theirs here) and shiny restaurants attract a glossy bunch, making the combination an alluring one. But before it was regarded as a firmament of sophistication on the East End, Sag Harbor was a bustling whaling port, the energy of its economic success still present in the thriving local commerce today. The town's residents are fiercely loyal to its non-"big-brand" reputation: shop owners seethe when speaking of the impending luxury condos slated to go up where the abandoned Bulova watch factory stands. "Eventually this town will become a tourist trap like all the rest of them," barked a dedicated local at the Sag Harbor Whaling Museum. Until then, however, we may relish the tiny-windowed, whaler-widow homes and the deliciously nostalgic main strip.

Notoriously difficult to find, Espresso, 184 Division St., 631-725-4433, is a treat well worth the search. This longtime favorite among local students (the school is nearby) offers sandwiches on warm, plump foccacia; be warned, the width of the bread is about as long as your forearm, so sharing is advised. Pasta dinners, salads and pizzas are available to take out and the homemade balsamic vinaigrette is sharp, rich and peppery (delicious!). Provisions, 7 Main St., 631-725-3636, natural foods market and organic café, is the one-stop shop for yogis and aspiring health gurus. The café has a tasty goat cheese and avocado wrap, organic tuna and curry chicken salads, and a juice bar. Browse the aisles where you can pick up products from Dr. Hauschka, Welleda and Burts Bees or nab an organic cotton T-shirt while waiting for your carrot, beet and celery concoction to be blended. Love those green peace magnets slapped on the back of Volvos everywhere? Here's where to get 'em. The Dock House, 21A Bay St., 631-725-7555, has fresh local oysters on the half-shell, buckets of mussels and cold cracked lobsters, as well as an assortment of fried and grilled fish and salads. The relaxed eatery is on the wharf; you can eat in the tiny venue with views of the harbor or at nearby picnic benches. For more formal dining, B. Smith's, 1 Bay St., 631-725-5858, is right next door, overlooking the yachts of the harbor. Navy-and-white striped booths, palm trees and an oak-paneled bar make for a Palm Beach feel, enhancing the atmosphere. The impeccable raw bar and curried crisped oysters are favorites this year. Housed in the American Legion is the Dockside Bar and Grill, 26 Bay St., 631-725-7100, which serves fresh seafood and sophisticated American fare. Right next door to sushi staple Sen, 23 Main St., 631-725-1774, is the newly opened Sen Spice, 29 Main St., 631-725-0101, which serves Indian cuisine in a dark, romantic setting. For savory pizza slices and linguine with clams, Conca D'Oro, 103 Main St., 631-725-3167, is casual Italian bliss. Il Cappucino, 30 Madison St., 631-725-2747, is a good date spot; it serves traditional Italian fare in cozy environs. Oasis, 3253 Noyac Rd., 631-725-7110, offers views of the bay in its elegant, tropical-inspired dining room. Try the East End Bouillabaisse and a blood orange margarita.

Sag Harbor Variety, 45 Main St., 725-9706, says it all; variety, in Sag Harbor, is a given, and the old-fashioned store plays into the appeal of the town's main strip. The five and dime store, continuously operated since 1922, and the last place east of Riverhead where something other than candy is sold for a buck, evokes sheer nostalgia. Across the street is a modern variety store, Sylvester & Co., 103 Main St., 631-725-5012, which has extraordinary cookies (thick and chunky) and delicious iced coffee. Modern lamps, coffee-table books and wicker placemats plus the Hamptons best assortment of hostess gifts are housed inside the sleek white interior. Tucked in a brick alleyway known as "the shopping cove" are JavaNation, 78 Main St., 631-725-0500, a free-trade organic coffee emporium with listings of local goings-on, Collette, 78 Main St., 631-725-9300, a designer consignment store, and Black Cat Books, 78 Main St., 631-725-8654. Bookstores make up an integral part of Sag Harbor's shops and at Black Cat, exceptional used, rare and out-of-print books are packed into its floor-to-ceiling bookshelves; the scent of aged paper is enough of a draw for book collectors and recreational readers alike. Bookhampton, 20 Main St., 631-725-8425, which has outposts all over the East End, has best-sellers and coffee-table types, and, not to be missed, is the poetry wall at Canio's, 290 Main St., 631-725-4926. The used-book venue, operated by two extremely savvy women, frequently hosts readings from various local writers and offers events. Incense, energy rocks and CDs, as well as a carefully selected range of spiritual books, are available at Metaphysical Books & Tools, 83 Main St., 631-725-9393.

Attached to the American Hotel is the newly opened Lisa Perry Shop, 45 Main St., 631-725-SHOP. The designer and her daughter, Samantha, frequently vogue in the shop, modeling the Mod designs. Consignment store Around Again, Long Wharf Promenade, 725-4067, has a wide selection of costume jewelry, and men's and women's second-hand designer clothes. '70s-inspired pieces from Porridge and comfortable classics by Three Dots are among the designers on offer at Jill's, 26 Main St., 631-725-5742, and Satori, 95 Main St., 631-725-7248, has plenty of tees and an encompassing denim collection. A bit further down the street is Calypso, 117 Main St., 631-725-1220, which changed from being the brand's home store to its classic fashion retail incarnation last year. New boutique life'style, 127 Main St., 631-725-1667, offers organic clothing from yoga-wear to evening dresses, and DJ Hart, 34 Main St., 631-725-5849, has women's sportswear, linen, sweaters, costume jewelry, and lovely beaded necklaces that store owner Dee Moorhead makes. Also available is a unique flatware collection including knives with mermaid handles. Interior design consulting and a selection of fine beach home-appropriate furnishings are available at Broken Colour Works, Division & Bay Sts., 631-725-6152. When choosing a gift for your in-laws, or if you'd like to spruce up your own garden, Unlimited Earth Care, 2249 Scuttlehole Rd., 725-7551, specializes in landscapes, layout, installations, and floral gardens. The new showroom showcases the talents of landscape designer Frederico Azevedo. Want to pamper your pooch? Stop into Harbor Pets, 27 West Water St., 725-9070, where there is a grooming salon, pet supplies, day care and high-end accessories from New York Dog on offer.

Gallery Privee, 197 Madison St., 631-899-3197, will be showing its first public showcase, Michael Costello's "Gods and Monsters" this month. The contrasting light and distorted proportions of body parts make the oil-on-canvas portraits intriguingly grotesque and intrustive viewing. Gallery owner Rebecca Cooper chooses various local artists who show for roughly a month at The Gallery Sag Harbor, 125 Main St., 631-725-7707. Currently exhibiting are collages and jewelry by Mia Fonssagrives Solow. Ms. Solow, who has a particular fondness for animals, crafts Siamese cats and ducks from newspaper, capturing the nimble quality of the feline stretch with great beauty. Her abstract and animal-inspired jewelry are very fine: a sterling silver pin shaped like a squid with red stones for eyes and an elephant necklace are among the notable pieces from her collection. Upstairs from The Gallery Sag Harbor is Cuca Romley's Winter Tree Gallery, 125 Main St., 631-725-0097, where the artist is currently showing a series of paintings entitled "Summer-Time." The stylized paintings appear flat, but the rich palette produce a dynamic energy.

If you hear clunky footsteps from upstairs while slinging a Bud at Murph's Backstreet Tavern, 64 Division St., 631-725-9749, don't worry, it's just Addie, the venue's resident ghost. She's been freaking out patrons and staff since the creaky-floored, tiny bungalow came about. Legends often accompany local watering-holes, but this one kind of takes the cake. Make sure to try the ring toss, (also known as the perfect ice-breaker); only be prepared to make conversation after you both score; things can get quiet, fast. Longings to feel 1920s glam can be indulged at the American Hotel, 49 Main St., 631-725-3535, where ordering a dark liquor drink in the dark-wood bar in the dark green, gentlemen's only-like main room feels deliciously seductive. From there, make your way to the lounge at Sen Spice, 29 Main St., 631-725-0101, or for a serious power hour, La Superica, 2 Main St., 631-725-3388, is your best bet. The margaritas are stiff and tasty, and the Mexican-fare goes well with the drinks. Very local and equally salty is The Corner Bar, 1 Main St., 631-725-9760, and strange things happen once you're inside the Cigar Bar, 2 Main St., 631-725-2575, which is right across the street. From the outside, it looks inviting. It's dimly lit and perhaps full of mystery, but once inside, 40-something women might be seen dancing on tables to a thumping techno base.

Stop by Weekend Warrior Tours & Outfitters, 8 Main St., 631-725-5950, if you want to plan your next seafaring adventure. Co-founders Ed Cashin and David Lys lead individual and group excursions all over the East End as well as national and international trips. The outdoor enthusiasts will take you to the unspoiled bays between Southampton and Montauk, arranging day-trips with lobsterbakes and pirate tours for kids. With 27 years experience under her belt, Lauralee Bruce operates a fun, non-competitive yet challenging pilates course at Pilates Method by Lauralee Bruce, 74 Main St., 631-725-7995. Run by Lesa Salvani, a graduate of Tisch's dance program and Bruce's sister, In Balance Pilates Studio, 34 Water St., 631-725-8282, was voted the Best of the Best for the Dan's Papers Readers Choice Awards. The certified Pilates instructor focuses on mind and body integration and intelligent movement. On rainy days, Sag Harbor is not a bad place to be. The Sag Harbor Whaling Musuem, 200 Main St., 631-725-0770, has a permanent exhibit which explores the town's rich whaling history. Just across the street is the John Jermaine Libray, 201 Main St., 631-725-0049, with very friendly and extremely well-informed personnel, as well as a grand reading room on the building's top floor atrium; grab a book from the vast collection and settle into a nook. Sneak into an afternoon movie at the Sag Harbor Cinema, 90 Main St., 631-725-0010, which shows art-house and foreign films selected by Gerry Mallow of Shelter Island. The musty aroma and old-world feel of the cinema make for a memorable experience.