Simple Art of Cooking

Cookin' Up the Fare of the Irish

Silvia Lehrer

The folks in Ireland are probably cooking a fine Irish broth and roasting a whole salmon for their traditional St. Patrick's Day celebration. It's March, and Irish or not, here in the states St. Patrick's Day simply isn't complete without a plate of succulent corned beef and cabbage. To approximate the time-honored taste of corned beef, pick up a brisket pickled in brine, which includes a savory mix of herbs and spices, at your butcher or supermarket. The tough fibers of the meat cook gently to a delicious tenderness with boiled carrots, potatoes and cabbage. Complete the dish with mustard horseradish sauce.

A dear friend, a native of Belfast, suggests an Irish broth, typically vegetable soup, frequently served at mealtime in Ireland. It's chock full of vegetables, lentils, split peas and barley, and for Patricia, has a deep sense of tradition. Here's my version of Irish broth to add a little authenticity to your St. Patrick's Day dinner.

IRISH BROTH WITH VEGETABLES, LENTILS AND BARLEY

Irish broth is a typical reference to any variety of soups frequently served in Ireland.

Serves 8

1. Heat broth in a large saucepan to the edge of a boil. Add the lentils, peas and barley, adjust heat to medium and cook at a brisk simmer for 20-25 minutes. Add carrots, parsnips, celery and leeks and season to taste with salt and pepper. (If using canned chicken broth, use a low-sodium version. Even these may be a little salty, so adjust your taste for any additional salt accordingly.)

2. Simmer the soup for an additional 20-25 minutes until vegetables are tender and lentils, peas and barley are cooked. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary and serve hot.

To prepare ahead: Follow steps 1 and 2 up to two days ahead. Refrigerate, covered, or freeze for up to a month. Bring to room temperature before reheating.

CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE WITH MUSTARD HORSERADISH SAUCE

Fresh corned beef is brisket that has been pickled in brine. Properly cooked it is succulent and satisfying. The low-fat (not fat-free) mayonnaise in the dressing is half the calories than regular mayonnaise without any discernible difference in taste.

Serves 6-8

1. In a mixing bowl combine ingredients for the sauce, stir to mix and refrigerate until needed.

2. Place beef in a large enamel over iron saucepan, such as Le Creuset or a Dutch oven. Pour over enough water to cover the meat by 2-3 inches and bring to edge of a boil. Skim the surface of any debris rising to the surface, adjust heat to a brisk simmer and put in the onion, celery, celery leaves, parsley, thyme, bay leaves and peppercorns. With cover ajar, cook over low heat for 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Turn the meat every 30 minutes or so. Liquid will begin to evaporate after about 1 1/2 hours. Add enough fresh water to keep the meat barely covered at all times.

3. About 30 minutes before the meat is done most of the fatty liquid will have evaporated. Add more water to the pot and put in the carrots and potatoes to cook in the remaining time to cook the meat.

4. Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan boil the cabbage wedges in salted water for about 20-25 minutes. Drain when ready to serve.

5. When meat is fork tender, transfer to a carving board. With slotted spoon divide the carrots and potatoes on 6-8 plates with a wedge of cabbage. Discard remaining liquid in the pot. Slice the meat across the grain. Arrange overlapping slices aside the vegetables. Serve with a dollop of mustard horseradish sauce.

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