Dan's Papers - March 14, 2008 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

While I was studying abroad in London some 30 years ago, my husband met me for a brief holiday in Ireland. As memory serves there was a calm simplicity about the people and the country. I remember stopping at a cozy teashop while touring the Ring of Kerry on Ireland's West Coast. While I don't recall in detail the china cup I drank from or the quaint surroundings of the small tearoom, I do remember the warmed pot the tea was served from. The water was freshly drawn and freshly boiled with fine quality tea that was allowed to brew. This sums up exactly what Irish food is all about. There is an unrelenting naturalness to it; the food never assaults or shocks and the seasonings are mild.

In Ireland, in the homes and on the farms, the people take pride in their local products, such as fresh salmon and newborn vegetables, locally produced meats and earthy, hearth-baked breads.

My dear friend, Patricia, (nee), McCormick, a native of Belfast, speaks nostalgically of her mother's Irish stews, salmon fish cakes and lemon meringue pies. Though corned beef and cabbage may appear on many a menu here in the United States to celebrate St. Patrick's Day this weekend, in Ireland they are, no doubt, feasting on one or more of the native dishes. So if you're feeling a bit Irish, and everyone does on St. Patrick's Day, you might consider preparing shepherd's pie; a moist and delicious take on a planked salmon dish crusted over with scallion mashed potatoes. This may not be particularly Irish but it is as simple and straightforward as the people themselves.

PLANKED SALMON
Planking fish is a form of grilling at an angle, where the fish is fastened to a board of kiln-dried oak that imparts unique flavors. Another reference to planking mentions covering any exposed surfaces around the fish in a decorative way with mashed potatoes, much like a shepherd's pie.
Serves 4

1 1/2 pounds salmon fillet
2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoon grainy Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon coarse (kosher) salt
Freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees

1. Place the fish on a well-oiled baking sheet, or metal serving platter. Combine the remaining ingredients and cover the fish with the mixture. Place in preheated oven and bake for 8-10 minutes.
Preheat broiler.

2. Spoon or pipe prepared mashed potatoes in a pastry bag fitted with a large star-tipped tube decoratively around the edge of the platter or spoon a ring along the edge. Place under preheated broiler until the potatoes are delicately browned. Serve at once.

MASHED POTATOES WITH SCALLIONS AND BROTH
A simply delicious mashed potato dish on its own. Or, combine with the baked salmon above for a salmon shepherd's pie.

2-2 1/4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced
1/3-1/2 cup chicken broth or skim milk
2-3-scallions, rinsed, trimmed and thinly sliced
1-2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted butter
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Cook potatoes with cover ajar in salted boiling water for 16-18 minutes, until potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife.

2. In a small saucepan simmer stock or milk with scallions over low heat for 4-5 minutes.

3. Drain potatoes and return to the dry, but still warm, saucepan and mash with potato masher. Beat in the olive oil or butter, and then gradually add the scallion infused liquid and continue to beat until light and fluffy. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve hot.

LEMON CUSTARD SQUARES
It almost looks as if a pile of whipped cream tops this lemony custard. But in fact the egg whites, which are beaten into the base mixture, separate while the custard bakes.
Serves 8

2 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
1 1/4 cups sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Rind and juice of 2 large lemons
4 eggs, separated
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1. Place butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl and beat with a wooden spoon until creamy. Beat in the flour.

2. Grate the rind from both lemons then juice them. Add rind and juice to the mixture then stir in egg yolks, one at a time

3. In a separate, clean cold bowl with cold beaters, whip the egg whites with cream of tartar until firm, but not dry peaks form, about 2 1/2 - 3 minutes, gently fold about one-fourth of the beaten whites into the custard. Carefully fold in remaining whites until well incorporated. Transfer to a non-reactive buttered baking pan such as Pyrex or porcelain and bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 25-30 minutes. Can be prepared ahead and refrigerated up to 24 hours. Cut into squares for serving.