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Issue #49, March 14, 2008

Digger O'Dell's
58 West Main Street
Riverhead
631-369-3200

For those of you who already know this restaurant that proudly proclaims that, "Irish is a state of mind," yes, the full name is back in use. No longer the shortened version, 'Digger's because owners Stephen Wirth and his wife believe that the full name more truly represents the true spirit of this charming and welcoming pub/restaurant. They should know because Stephen has worked here for the past 15 years and they have owned it for the last three. One thing I always notice here is that everyone seems to be smiling - not just the folk at the expansive and friendly bar but the diners and most importantly the staff. It really does exude some good old-fashioned Celtic hospitality as soon as you walk in.

Photo by Roy Bradbrook

Maryann, our waitress, who also has been here almost from the opening, greeted us like long lost relatives and brought a wondrous, proper, very, very dry Martini and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc to sip as we studied the menu that has recently been redesigned and somewhat restructured without losing any of the long time favorite dishes. We started with some Buffalo chicken tidbits that were choice pieces of white meat, and the sauce was appropriately tangy just as requested. The baked clams here are named after a 'Father Solan' and I don't know why but I do thoroughly recommend this succulent blend of shrimp, clams, scallops and crabmeat with herbs and spices. They came sizzling hot and were delicious. The house salad that is inclusive with the entrees was crisp and well dressed and one was ample for the two of us. No one goes away hungry from here.

For our main courses, we chose a shrimp scampi with large well cooked shrimp in a light garlic lemon sauce that was delicate and full of flavor and because it was the 'Steak Special' night, (Thursdays), I decided to have a cut of steak that I had never heard of. Maryann explained that 'baseball' cut referred to a rounded steak cut out of a thick sirloin. In looks it resembled a tournedos or filet mignon but for me the taste and texture were much, much better. It came simply grilled with a salt crust and aromatic au jus and a side of impeccable fries and a topping of crispy thin onion slices. The French and Belgians knew what they were doing when they first prepared that classic, steak frites - simplicity usually cannot be bettered. But if your taste runs to strip, flat iron, flank or porterhouse they are also here for you at prices ranging from $15.99 to for the flat iron to $31.99 for the 21oz porterhouse. The baseball cut sirloin was $17.99.

For dessert we had to go along with Maryann's strong recommendation and we were so glad that we did. Bread pudding can be a non-entity but Cheryl Schumann, the pastry chef, made this into a dish that was very rich but light and the bourbon based sauce made the totality a dessert to remember for a long while. We were so impressed with it that we cajoled the recipe from the kitchen to try out at home.

Apart from the dishes we enjoyed on this visit there was so much on the menu that makes me want to return again. As you would expect they have a good selection of Irish favorites such as the house special sausage and cabbage soup, shepherd's pie, chicken pot pie, fish and chips and the perennial favorite corned beef and cabbage, even though the last, whilst delicious, is of very doubtful Irish ancestry! If you are a pasta lover then Wednesday may be the one for you with Italian night offering a choice of all you can eat from four pastas and four sauces all for $14.99. Probably the single favorite item though is their famed prime rib, which at $19.99 for a 16oz Queen cut that comes with soup or salad and vegetables is a great deal. Indeed, all of the prices here represent extremely good value for money, especially considering the quality of the cooking. Similarly, drinks are very reasonably priced with a very wide range of twelve beers on tap of over twenty bottled brews.

Digger O'Dell's is a great town restaurant whether you want a fast lunch, a dinner, a party (Stephen told us that they are pleased to cater for parties from 2 to 85 - probably in age as well as size!). There is no doubt that the standard of the food has continually improved since Stephen took over ownership and overall this is a restaurant that gives outstanding value in food, service and ambience. When you are there take time to read the charming Irish sayings and quotations sprinkled around the menu.

- Roy Bradbrook


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