Dan's Papers - March 7, 2008 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

If I heard or read it once, I've heard or read it a dozen times. "When cooking with wine be sure to use something you would drink with dinner." None of this supermarket shelf cooking wine thank you. "Wine is food and when drinking wine with food it should compliment," says Doug Gulija, chef/owner of the Plaza Café in Southampton. "An oak-y chardonnay is well matched to fettucine Alfredo, for instance, to cut through the richness of the dish," he added. Well versed in wine, Gulija holds several wine dinners at his restaurant throughout the year.

Roman Roth, wine maker extraordinaire at Wölffer Estate Vineyards in Sagaponack, argues that wine and food are simply meant to go together. "Wine, food and friends are the perfect combination - the total dining experience," he said. Roth explained that the acidity in wine cuts the fat and adds freshness to foods in the same way that lemon or lime juice would. He is planning several wine dinners at South and North Fork restaurants in April and May. Check Wölffer's website for details.

For your cooking with wine pleasure, I've chosen two favorite wine-based recipes to both make and enjoy with wine. Seafood stew, a condensed, contemporary version of bouillabaisse, calls for a Reisling or rose. Roth suggests a Merlot for both the cooking of and drinking with braised beef. He said that East End Merlots have, "more structure and texture - the alcohol level in local Merlot is lower than in hot or warmer climates." Cheers, salute and bon appetit!

SHELLFISH STEW
If you prepare a classic fish stock ahead and freeze or refrigerate, your seafood stew can be ready in short order.
Serves 6-8

1 dozen mussels
1 dozen little neck clams
1/2 pound large sea scallops
1 pound white-flesh fish, cod, sea bass or monkfish
2 tablespoons olive oil
2-3 shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 large leek, trimmed, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine (Riesling)
6 cups fish stock, preferably homemade
3-4 tomatoes, pureed in a food mill
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons chopped, flat leaf Italian parsley
Pinch saffron
1 bulb fennel, trimmed, rinsed and cut into julienne strips
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Debeard the mussels and scrub the shellfish in fresh water until sand is eliminated. Remove side muscle from scallops and discard. Cut white flesh fish into 1 1/2 inch pieces. Set aside or refrigerate until needed.
2. Heat oil in a large saucepan. Add shallots and garlic and saute briefly. Add carrot and leek and toss to coat. Cover and cook over low heat for 6-7 minutes. Add white wine, bring to a boil and reduce by half. Add fish stock, tomato puree, herbs and saffron and simmer for 15-20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
*Can be prepared ahead to this point and refrigerated up to 3 days, or frozen.
3. Before serving, bring fish soup to room temperature if doing ahead, and return to heat. When broth is at a simmer, add shellfish and cook, covered, for 3-4 minutes. Add fish and fennel and cook with cover ajar for 3-4 minutes longer or until fish is opaque and shellfish open. Remove from heat and serve at once with crusty bread.

BEEF BRAISED IN RED WINE, ITALIAN STYLE
Marinate the beef then slowly cook in red wine
for a comforting and hearty winter dish.
Serves 6

For the marinade
3 1/2-4 pounds rump or chuck roast
2 cups dry red wine, Merlot or Barolo
1 small onion, sliced
2 bay leaves

To braise the beef
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
2-3 carrots, trimmed, rinsed and thinly sliced
2-3 ribs celery, trimmed, rinsed and thinly sliced
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons brandy
1 can (13 3/4 oz.) low-sodium beef broth
1 can (1 lb. 12.oz) whole tomatoes and juice
1/4 teaspoon dry marjoram
1/8 teaspoon dried thyme
Freshly grated nutmeg

1. Put meat in a bowl with the wine, onion and bay leaves, cover with plastic wrap and marinate in refrigerator for several hours or overnight.
2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Remove meat from marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Meanwhile, drain wine over a bowl to reserve. Discard onion and bay leaves.
3. Warm oil in a heavy non-stick skillet and when hot, brown meat lightly on all sides. Transfer to an oven-going casserole and season meat with salt and pepper. Add vegetables to pan drippings and saute for a few minutes. Add brandy and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper to taste and pour over the meat in the casserole.
4. Pour over reserved red wine, broth, tomatoes - breaking up tomatoes up with a spoon, and add herbs and nutmeg. Bring liquid to a boil, cover casserole and transfer to preheated oven. Braise about 3 1/2 hours. Turn meat every 30 minutes, basting with liquid. Prick with a fork to check tenderness.
5. Transfer meat to a cutting board, let cool then slice. Meanwhile, reduce liquid in casserole to thicken slightly. Return slices to sauce to reheat and serve warm.