Dan's Papers -February 27, 2009 -

Never. They never ever cooked up some pasta. And even if they did, they would have called it spaghetti. My two grandmas clung to their past when it came to food. Grandma Safarik made German stuff like sauerbraten. Nana Smith stuck with corned beef.

Even in my own childhood home, pasta was a rarity. Occasionally my mom splurged and bought some macaroni salad at Braren's Delicatessen down the street (never heard the word deli back then). And when Mom made beef soup, she put in those skinny noodles. But that was it. No simmered sauce on the back burner, no al dente.

Then I went away to college. Ever so sophisticated, I discovered lasagna, manicotti, ravioli. All this at a Friday-night, no-tablecloth pizza place in Westchester. Further pasta education continued when I married, acquiring a husband as well as a recipe for pasta fagioli. I loved 'em both.

Still, realizing I'm not quite Rachel Ray in the kitchen, I moved quickly when I heard of a pasta-making demonstration right here on the North Fork. Not only that, but the demo was to be given by Grandma. She wasn't one of my grandmas, of course, but she was somebody's grandma and that was good enough for me.

So off to Diliberto Vineyard and Winery I went. On Manor Lane in Jamesport, the vineyard is owned by a terrific husband/wife team - Sal and Maryann Diliberto. Sal confessed right away that he's the grandma who'd be doing the pasta-making. So grandma is really a grandpa. Sal said he remembers all his older female relatives in his Queens childhood "in the kitchen on Sunday mornings, making pasta." That's why he calls himself grandma.

Fine. Over that hurdle and we were ready to go. But not before I met Jessica Green, a 2007 Mattituck High School graduate and assistant to the Dilibertos. Jessica said she loves her job and I would find out why very soon.

The demo took place in the vineyard's tasting room. Sal, in a bright blue limoncello apron straight from Sorrento, positioned himself behind a great big table. Pasta ingredients were on a shelf behind him. This day's pasta was gnocchi so there were things like potatoes, flour, eggs, salt, pepper, parmesan cheese, and nutmeg. Sal ground the nutmeg right there in front of us.

All the while he worked the gnocchi dough, Sal talked. About everything. The history of tomatoes, for instance. Or about his mother, Carmela, who was born in Italy and inspired all this cooking. "It's in the genes," claimed Sal. Carmela was born in Dugenta, near Naples, and Sal and Maryann visit relatives there pretty regularly.

For a moment Sal's musings included baseball. Then it was back to pasta and the merits of a pasta-making machine. Sal says he prefers hand-cutting.

Well, with the gnocchi dough kneaded, Sal was ready for the cutting. According to Sal, gnocchi dough doesn't need to "rest" as long as regular pasta dough. Good. That meant we could sample sooner.

And just who would be sampling? From Mattituck came Elise and Bob Passeggio. They'd brought friends with them - Joe and Joanne O'Neill from Valley Stream. Joe got right up at that floury table with Sal (yes, he washed his hands first) and began rolling out the gnocchi dough. "I had to try it even though I'm Irish," said Joe.

I was concerned about Joe. Joanne took several pictures of her husband at work with Sal. I suspect Joe will have to follow through and start cooking when he gets home.

Now for the sauce, a basil pesto sauce, made by Sal and so good. Jessica served the gnocchi and sauce in delicate white dishes. "Ah, great," came from all over the room. Especially from Nancy Ziino of Moriches and Andi Green of Holbrook. They looked so pleased I think they may take up residence at Diliberto Vineyard.

I thanked Sal as I left. "My pleasure" was his response. And it's obvious the vineyard is his pleasure. As for cleanup? When I asked about that, Maryann simply said "Guess."

But no question about the success of this North Fork pasta afternoon. It was happy and delicious. Only one disappointment. Sal sang no Italian opera selections. "He's got a good voice for opera," said Maryann. Well, maybe next time. Ciao.