Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

In Greek mythology, when Aphrodite rose from the sea she skimmed the Aegean waves on a scallop shell. The image is that of a graceful form, which has been reflected in art and architecture through the ages. Beauty, however, is not just skin deep, as shellfish lovers who have enjoyed the sweet, tender bivalve since earliest times surely know.

Because of the way scallops move through the water, they cannot hold their shells closed. Consequently, in captivity, they quickly lose body moisture and die. It’s imperative therefore to put a premium on rapid shipping since only the meaty muscle is taken from the shell and iced. How fortunate we are, here on the East End, to have the freshest fish of all kinds available to us.

There is a small tiny hard substance, also referred to as a muscle that is attached to the scallop and should be removed. When working with scallops, rinse and dry thok

em very well prior to cooking and when sautéeing scallops, a chef’s technique is to get your skillet very hot to sear them so they retain their natural juices. Scallops cook quickly, so be sure to prep your ingredients to enjoy this delectable treat in the following recipes.

SAUTÉED SEA SCALLOPS WITH

LEMON AND PARSLEY

Scallops sizzle and brown quickly when cooked in hot fat, otherwise they lose their natural juices.

Serves 4 as appetizer or 2 as main course

• 3/4 pound sea scallops
• 1/3 cup Panko bread crumbs
• Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley

1. Remove the small tough muscle on the sides of the scallops, rinse and pat dry with paper towel. Place Panko bread crumbs on a flat dish and season with salt, pepper and paprika. Dredge scallops in the seasoned crumbs and set aside.

2. Heat butter and oil in a large non-stick skillet. Put the scallops into the pan in one layer. Saute in two batches if necessary and do not crowd the pan or they will lose moisture as they cook.

3. Depending on size of scallop, saute about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes on one side, turn and cook other side for about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes longer. It’s better to undercook scallops slightly or they will shrink and toughen. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, lemon juice and parsley and serve immediately.

SEA SCALLOPS WITH RADICCHIO AND BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

Sautééed sea scallops are served with a balsamic reduction for a fragrant warm salad.

Serves 4-6

• 1 pound sea scallops, tough side muscle removed
• 1 small head of radicchio, trimmed, washed and spin-dried
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
• 2-3 leeks, trimmed, carefully washed and cut into julienne
• Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1. Remove side muscle from scallops and discard. Rinse scallops quickly and pat dry with paper towels.

2. Arrange radicchio leaves on warm plates.

3. Warm olive oil in a large skillet. Put in shallots and leek julienne. Toss to coat and saute briefly over medium heat, about 2-3 minutes. Leek should be slightly crisp. Sprinkle mixture with salt and pepper. Transfer equal amounts over cradles of radicchio.

4. Put scallops in the skillet that the shallot and leek cooked in and saute quickly, about 30-40 seconds on each side. Season with salt and pepper and toss to mix. Divide scallops equally and arrange on radicchio leaves. Pour balsamic vinegar in the skillet and bring to the edge of a boil. Swirl the butter through the pan juices and season lightly with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the thickened juices over the scallops and serve immediately.

CRUSTED SCALLOPS WITH CITRUS SAUCE

Dust the scallops with Japanese-style bread crumbs for added crunch.

Serves 4 as main course

• 20 evenly sized sea scallops, tough side muscle removed
• Panko bread crumbs, optional
• Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• Orange peel from 1 navel orange
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 - 2 shallots, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup fresh orange juice
• 1/4 cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley

1. Rinse scallops and pat dry with paper towels. Put the panko bread crumbs on a plate and season with salt, pepper and paprika. Dredge the scallops in the mixture to coat; set aside. Slice the orange peel into julienne and blanch in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and set aside. Can be done ahead.

2. Heat a cast iron skillet or a sturdy saute pan over medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Add the oil and 1 tablespoon butter and when butter foam subsides, put in the scallops. Sear the scallops until barely opaque, about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes each side. You will have to do this in two or three batches. Transfer to warm plates as they are done.

3. Melt remaining butter in the pan, add chopped shallot and saute quickly until translucent. Add orange juice and stir to deglaze pan drippings and taste for salt and pepper. Add the blanched orange peel julienne and parsley and stir to mix. Divide sauce equally over the plated scallops and serve.