Simple Art Of Cooking

Chocolate Desserts: Sweets for the Sweet

by Silvia Lehrer

Valentine's Day, a holiday eternally synonymous with a day of love and romance, falls on a Saturday this year. For centuries, Valentine's Day has continued to grow in tradition, creating a compelling connection between food and love. For me, it's the perfect excuse to indulge in chocolate desserts. Not that anyone needs an excuse to enjoy chocolate in any form.

To celebrate the special occasion, a fine dinner in sumptuous surroundings would be lovely. Restaurants are where we look for a special evening out. Yet, the idea of a chocolate tasting party is suddenly very appealing. Why not do both - an early dinner out and then home to share chocolate desserts - your place or mine?

According to food scientist authority, Harold McGee, (On Food and Cooking, Scribner, revised 2004,) "Chocolate contains phenylethylamine, a naturally occurring body chemical that has amphetamine-like effects. In fact, there is good experimental evidence that chocolate does not contain any drug-like substances capable of inducing true addiction. It appears to be the sensory experience of eating chocolate, no more and no less, that is powerfully appealing." In its myriad forms, chocolate is an endless temptation and simply a culinary source of pleasure.

TORTA DI MANDORLE DI CAPRI

This Italian inspired cake is incredibly light, rich and moist. It contains no starch or leavening. The eggs give it its structure and you will be amazed at how simple it is to prepare.

Serves 10-12

Butter an 8-inch springform pan then dust with bread or cookie crumbs.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

1. Blanch almonds in a saucepan of boiling water for one minute. Drain, slip off skins and dry nuts. Transfer to bowl of food processor fitted with knife blade and process until finely ground, (dry, and not pasty). Transfer nuts to a large bowl. Place chocolate in processor and process until fine. Add chocolate to almonds in the bowl and stir to mix. Add rum and vanilla and stir to incorporate thoroughly.

2. In a bowl or the bowl of the electric mixer, cream butter and sugar until creamy and smooth. Add egg yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition. When all the yolks have been added, remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the almond mixture until thoroughly incorporated.

3. In a clean bowl, beat egg whites at a slow speed in the electric mixer or electric hand beaters until just foamy, add cream of tartar and continue to beat at medium-high speed until whites form stiff, but not dry, peaks.

4. With a large rubber spatula, stir one-fourth of the egg whites into the cake batter, and then carefully fold in the remaining whites. Transfer batter to prepared pan and bake for 50 minutes to one hour. Cake is done when it pulls away from sides of pan or a cake tester inserted into center comes out clean.

5. Remove from the oven and allow the cake to cool for at least 10 minutes in the pan. Loosen sides of cake by drawing a kitchen knife between the cake and the sides of pan. Remove the sides of springform and cool completely on a wire rack. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve with whipped cream, if desired. Can be made up to two days ahead.

RASPBERRY CHOCOLATE BROWNIES

Here's a recipe that needn't pack a days worth of calories into a single portion - just enough to satisfy that chocolate craving.

Yield: Approximately two dozen brownies when cut into 1 1/2" x 1" bars

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

1. Put the oil and sugar in a bowl and beat with an electric mixer on medium speed for 30-40 seconds. Add egg whites and beat to incorporate into the mixture.

2. Combine flour, baking powder, salt and cocoa. Add to the sugar mixture, beating well until thoroughly incorporated. Add vanilla and stir to mix.

3. Oil an 8" or 9" square baking pan and pour in the batter. Bake for 25 minutes or until a cake tester or wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool for 15 minutes on a wire rack. Turn out onto a cutting board and cool completely. Spread top with raspberry preserves and sprinkle with walnuts. Cut into bars and transfer to a covered cake stand. For optimum flavor, prepare the day before serving.

TARTINE AU CACAO

Chocolate cravings couldn't get simpler than this!

Serves 2

1. Spread a thick layer of créme fraiche on each slice of bread and dust equally with cocoa powder.

2. Serve with homemade hot chocolate.

Adapted from Mireille Guiliano's French Woman Don't Get Fat, Knopf.

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