Dan's Papers - February 15, 2008 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

The Chinese New Year began on February 7, the first day of the new moon, and ends on Lantern Festival, two weeks later. The Chinese place a great deal of emphasis on the symbolic meanings behind specific foods during this holiday. In the start of the New Year oranges and tangerines are exchanged in pairs, representing the desire for sweetness. Fish symbolizes surplus, with enough to go through the New Year. Noodles are served to symbolize longevity, and rice to signify life and fertility.

The Chinese New Year is the most important of all Chinese holidays. Friends and family members get together to wish each other good luck, pay respect to grandparents, set a precedent of their desires for the New Year, and to imagine what the zodiac animal has in store for the coming year. This is the year of the rat! Since each year is designated by one of 12 animals, the elderly, who often lose track of their age, just have to remember the year, of whichever animal they were born in.

In the spirit of the New Year here are recipes you can prepare in celebration of the holiday, Gun Hay Fa Choy - Happy New Year!

SEA BASS CHINESE STYLE
This is a traditional fish preparation in many Chinese home kitchens.
Serves 2-3

1 1/2 -2 pound sea bass, gutted and cleaned with head and tail left on
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
6 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
One-inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced into matchsticks
1-2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 scallions, trimmed, rinsed and sliced on the diagonal

1. Have fishmonger clean fish as above. Rinse fish at home and dry well with paper towels.
2. Pour enough water in a wok or deep skillet with cover to poach the fish. Bring to a boil, put in the fish and reduce heat to a brisk simmer. Cover the wok or skillet with a tight fitting lid. Poach fish for 8-10 minutes. Test with chop stick for doneness.
3. While the fish is poaching, heat oil and ginger to crisp the ginger. Keep warm.
4. When fish is done carefully remove from wok with a large flat spatula and transfer to a platter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and lace with soy sauce. Pour the sizzling ginger and oil over the fish. Garnish with scallions and serve.

STIR-FRIED SHREDDED CARROTS WITH CELLOPHANE NOODLES
Prep the ingredients ahead and the dish is prepared in a matter of minutes. The reconstituted dried Chinese mushrooms offer an intensity of flavor.
Serves 4-6

8 whole Chinese dried mushrooms
1 1/2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup reserved mushroom water (from dried mushrooms)
1 2-ounce package of cellophane noodles
3 large carrots
1 tablespoon grated ginger
2 tablespoons canola or peanut oil
1 1/2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1/2-3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup reserved mushroom water (from dried mushrooms)

1. Rinse mushrooms then place in a bowl of warm water to cover for about 30 minutes until soft. Drain mushroom water, measure 1/2 cup into a bowl and season with soy and salt to taste. Slice mushrooms in half discarding the stem then shred into fine strips.
2. Meanwhile soak the cellophane noodles in hot water for 20 minutes; drain well. With kitchen scissors, cut noodles into 2-inch pieces. Peel and grate carrots. (Can be grated with shredding blade in a food processor.)
3. Place a wok or a large skillet over medium-high heat and put in the oil. When oil is hot put in the carrots and ginger and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add cellophane noodles and mushrooms and stir-fry for 2 minutes more. Stir in the seasoned mushroom water and mix well. Cover wok or skillet and let cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring once. Serve hot or at room temperature.

CHICKEN WITH HOISIN SAUCE AND CASHEWS
Vary this Chinese classic simply by using different vegetables, such as carrots, scallions or broccoli.
Serves 6

2 whole, boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 tablespoon dry sherry
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon cornstarch
4 tablespoons vegetable or peanut oil
1/2 cup water chestnuts, diced
1/2 cup sweet red pepper, diced
1 cup fresh mushrooms, diced
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1/4 cup roasted cashew nuts

1. Rinse and dry chicken breasts with paper towels. Cut into 1/2 inch dice and place in a mixing bowl with sherry, soy sauce and cornstarch. Toss to mix to coat the chicken.
2. Place a wok over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons oil. Roll the wok around to coat the sides with the oil. When oil is hot put in the water chestnuts, pepper and mushrooms. Toss the ingredients with a large metal spoon to stir-fry, for about 2 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to a side dish.
3. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to wok and when hot, put in the marinated chicken. Stir-fry until meat is opaque and chicken is cooked through. Add hoisin sauce and toss everything to mix. Dish out on a warm platter and garnish with roasted cashews. Serve immediately with hot cooked rice.