Dan's Papers - February 15, 2008 - Michaels' at the Boardwalk

If any of the aspiring chefs studying at the new Culinary Institute in Riverhead are reading this, my advice to them is to find time to cross the road and have a meal at Michaels' so that they can experience first hand just how a good restaurant should look and operate. Of course, while there they should taste the extraordinarily good food.

Michael's At The Boardwalk is well laid out in a subtle blend of light and dark colors, with large framed mirrors and a selection of prints on the walls. There is also a great bar area. Everything is well spaced and the table settings add to the ambience. The overall effect is comfortable and welcoming, giving Executive Chef Michael Meehan a deservedly great reputation on Long Island. Over recent years he has worked at establishments such as the Mill River Inn, Tupelo Honey and the iconic SeaFood Barge in Southold. Judging by the many times we have eaten here, it is obvious to us that his reputation will continue to grow in this new restaurant. He describes his concept at Michaels' as 'An American Bistro,' and his menu includes a great blend of home style favorites and classic dishes. We enjoyed the home baked breads as we decided on our choices and started our meal with a bowl of the soup of the day, a velvety, deep tasting black bean soup with sour lime cream. This was a perfect start, great for a wet and miserable winter evening as it warmed us through and prepared our taste buds for the treats to follow.

The grilled Polish Town Kielbasa served with a warm potato salad and herb mustard sauce was a revelation. Kielbasa was not one of my favorites - but it is now - at least if it measures up to Michael's standards. This Kielbasa, which does originate in Polish Town in Riverhead, was very tender with delicate tastes that matched perfectly with the accompaniments to make a great dish. Then came another surprise, again Buffalo wings in general leave me cold (however spicy hot they may be) but here Michael substitutes delectable, plump, sea-fresh tasting rock shrimp that came crispy coated and with a nice level of bite that could be soothed by the blue cheese dip to make another appetizer that was truly excellent. For our main courses we chose two of the entrees from the prix fixe menu, which at $21.95 for three courses is a great bargain.

Vanilla brined loin of pork was perfectly cooked, the meat was very sweet and tasty, and showed just how good pork can be. The accompaniments of sweet potato puree, dried figs and a sage jus combined to make another wonderful winter dish. Similarly, the grilled, free range chicken breast was beautifully plated, (as was everything else), with fingerling potatoes and butternut squash. The smoked bacon added an extra touch without being over assertive. The combined tastes were incredible and I would judge it one of the very best chicken dishes I have ever eaten.

Sylvia Luna is the pastry chef and we enjoyed sampling her key lime pie which had a delectable crust with a filling that was full of lemon flavor. The pecan squares also kept up the very high standards and we closed the meal with a cup of espresso that was really strong and fragrant.

Apart from the dishes we enjoyed on this visit, the menu includes duck, chicken pot pie, Michaels' special meat loaf, house smoked baby back ribs, local flounder and rare spiced Montauk tuna.

I often refer to 'honest' food as being my food of choice, where only the best and freshest ingredients are used, and the cooking style is designed to bring out their flavors and textures to the fullest and not to over elaborate or swamp with sauces that take away the intrinsic nature of the food. Michael Meehan's cuisine to me epitomizes 'honest' food. Everything we ate was a real pleasure and left you savoring every mouthful.

Michaels' offers a very interesting selection of classic and special cocktails such as the Wine Country Chard-tini, an intriguing blend of Chardonnay, Roth vodka, peach schnapps and lemon-lime soda and they have a good range of beers. The wine list matches the food in terms of quality and value. We enjoyed the Peconic Bay 'La Barrique' and the Dynamite Zinfandel from California. Wines are from $7 a glass and from $19 a bottle - very sensible pricing.

Apart from the super value three course prix fixe, another great offering is a three course complete lunch for $9.95 served on Wednesday through Friday, The prix fixe dinners are available Wednesday through Saturday and the restaurant is closed at this time of year on Mondays and Tuesdays. The main menu has appetizers from $7 to 12 and main courses from $11 to 32. They also have a special Valentine's Day prix fixe that offers a four course selection including a main course choice of filet mignon or rare seared Montauk tuna, paired with wine for $45 per person plus tax and gratuity.