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 Issue #45, February 16, 2007

Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

When cooking pasta to be combined with other ingredients for a baked pasta recipe, it’s important to cook the pasta for less time than normal to ensure that the finished dish is not overcooked. Begin testing the pasta after about 7 or 8 minutes. To test, scoop out a piece of pasta. It should be just flexible but still a bit firm. The required cooking time for most commercial dried pasta is 9 to 12 minutes.

The creamy baked ricotta stuffed pasta shells and the tomato and cheese baked penne are delicious do-ahead recipes that can be prepared ahead and then baked to be ready when you are!

BASIC TOMATO SAUCE

Keep on hand to add to pasta, bean stews, pizza and an endless variety of dishes.

Yield: 3 1/2-4 cups

3 pounds ripe plum tomatoes or 1 can (2 lb. 3 oz) plum tomatoes

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 3 large shallots, finely chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 2 teaspoons tomato paste
  • 1 teaspoon coarse salt
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 teaspoons julienne of fresh basil leaves

1. Plunge several tomatoes at a time into a pot of boiling water for about 30 seconds. Remove with slotted spoon and briefly cool under cold running water. Skin will slip off easily at the point of a knife. Cut tomatoes in half crosswise, hold in palm of hand, and squeeze gently to remove and discard seeds. Slice into narrow shreds and set aside.

2. In 3 1/2 to 4 quart saucepan, warm oil, add shallots and saute until translucent. Add garlic and saute for about 30 seconds longer, being careful not to brown. Add prepared or canned tomatoes with their liquid, tomato paste and season with salt and pepper. Stir to mix. Let simmer over medium-low heat with cover ajar about 15-20 minutes. Remove cover and cook at a brisk simmer for 15-20 minutes longer until some of the liquid has evaporated and sauce thickens slightly. Add herbs and stir. Let cool and then transfer to a screw-top jar and refrigerate. Use as directed in recipes.

To Prepare Ahead: Follow steps 1 and 2 up to two weeks ahead. Store covered in refrigerator. Or transfer to freezer-going containers and freeze up to six months.

BAKED PENNE PASTA

Serves 4-6

  • 1 pound penne
  • Coarse (kosher) salt
  • 1 recipe basic tomato sauce
  • 2 cups grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 1 pound fresh mozzarella
  • Fresh basil leaves

1. Cook penne in a large pot of boiling salted water for 2 or 3 minutes less than the package directions or until almost tender, but slightly underdone. Drain; rinse under cold water and drain thoroughly. Transfer pasta to a large bowl.

2. Spoon a thin layer of pasta sauce in a 9 x 13 baking or lasagna pan. Pour remaining sauce over the pasta and stir very well to mix. Add most of the cheese, reserving a few tablespoons and mix thoroughly. Pour the mixture into the baking pan and level the top. Cut the mozzarella into even slices and cover the top of the penne. Dot the cheese with torn pieces of basil and sprinkle remaining grated cheese. If doing ahead, cover with foil and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

3. If doing ahead, bring the pasta to room temperature, leaving, the foil on to cover, and bake in preheated oven for 15-20 minutes. Remove foil and bake about 10 minutes longer until golden brown and bubbly.

BAKED RICOTTA STUFFED PASTA SHELLS

The creamy sauce is caught in the curve of the pasta shells.

Serves 6

  • 1 pound jumbo pasta shells
  • 1 15 ounce container ricotta cheese
  • 1/3 pound fontina cheese, grated
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
  • 2 tablespoons julienne of mint leaves
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 3 cups basic tomato sauce, preferably homemade
  • 1/2 cup cream (optional)
  • 1/3 cup bread crumbs, preferably homemade
  • 2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1. In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the shells 2-3 minutes less than the package directions, or until almost tender, but slightly underdone.Drain; rinse under cold running water and drain thoroughly.

2. In a mixing bowl, combine ricotta, fontina, chives, mint, eggs, salt and pepper.

3. Butter a 9 x 13 baking or lasagna dish and coat the bottom of the pan with a little tomato sauce. Combine ricotta mixture with the pasta shells and stir thoroughly to mix. Transfer mixture to the baking pan. Add cream, if desired, to loosen the remaining sauce and pour over the shells to cover completely. Mix bread crumbs with parsley and scatter over the top. Then drizzle with olive oil. Cover pan with aluminum foil and bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for 15 - 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake 10 minutes longer to crisp the top. Let rest for a few minutes before serving.

 


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