Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

There is nothing more synonymous with St. Valentine’s Day than chocolate. A few years ago chocoholics breathed a collective sigh of relief when studies appeared touting chocolate as “good for us.” According to the USDA, dark chocolate, chocolate without milk additive and containing more than 15% cocoa solids, contains antioxidant flavonoids. These plant compounds prevent free radical damage and can help respond to allergens, viruses, inflammations and carcinogens. Even Brillat-Savarin, history’s greatest gastronome, proclaimed, “Chocolate is health,” long before science confirmed its therapeutic properties. Purchase fine quality chocolate and enjoy it in moderation.

For the hopeless romantics, here are three recipes for chocolate lovers.

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE BASQUE

Adding coffee to the chocolate mixture greatly enhances the deep, rich flavor of this mousse.

Serves 10-12

• 4 eggs, separated
• 6 ounces imported semisweet chocolate
• 2 tablespoons strong coffee*
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Garnish
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Candied violets (optional)

1. Place whites in a large mixing bowl or bowl of electric mixer and place yolks in a small bowl. Allow whites to come to room temperature.

2. Break up chocolate in small pieces and put in a heavy saucepan. Add coffee and melt over very low heat, or place in a small heatproof bowl and melt in a 250-degree oven about 10 minutes. When mixture softens, remove from heat and stir to a smooth cream. Stir 1 tablespoon of butter at a time into the hot chocolate mixture. Mix well. Add egg yolks, one at a time and stir until thoroughly incorporated.

3. In a bowl of electric mixer or in mixing bowl with hand electric beaters, beat egg whites until foamy. Add cream of tartar, adjust speed to medium-high and continue to beat until soft peaks form. Gradually add sugar, one tablespoon at a time. Continue beating about 1 minute until whites are very firm and shiny. With a large rubber spatula, spoon about one-fourth of the beaten egg whites into the chocolate mixture and stir to soften. Carefully fold in remaining whites until thoroughly softened.

4. Whip cream in a cold bowl with cold beaters until the beaters drawn across the top leave light traces; then carefully fold into mousse. Transfer to an attractive serving bowl or soufflé dish. Refrigerate covered several hours ahead or overnight.

5. To garnish: Whip 1/2 cup cream until stiff. Spoon cream into a pastry bag fitted with star tip and pipe a row of rosettes around the rim of the bowl. Top rosettes with candied violets, if desired.

Recipes reprinted from Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking at Cooktique, Doubleday

ELIZABETH DAVID’S FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE

Elizabeth David, the noted late British cookbook author, wrote widely on Mediterranean cooking.

Yield: 1 8-inch cake

• 4 ounces imported bittersweet chocolate
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1 tablespoon brewed espresso (or any strong coffee)
• 1 tablespoons brandy
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup ground almonds
• 3 large eggs, separated
• 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
• Confectioner’s sugar for decoration

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Butter an 8-inch springform pan and dust with flour or bread crumbs.

1. Break up chocolate in small pieces and put in a heavy saucepan with vanilla, coffee and Brandy. Melt over very low heat, or place in a small heatproof bowl and melt in a 250-degree oven. When mixture appears soft, remove from heat and stir to a smooth cream. Return saucepan to burner top and add butter, sugar and almonds and heat slowly until butter is melted. Transfer to a mixing bowl.

2. In a small bowl beat egg yolks until slightly thickened and lemon colored, about 3-4 minutes, and stir into the chocolate mixture.

3. In a bowl of electric mixer or in bowl with electric hand beaters, beat egg whites until foamy. Add cream of tartar, adjust speed to medium high and continue beating until egg whites are very firm and stiff peaks form. Fold about one-fourth of the beaten whites into the chocolate mixture and stir to soften. Carefully fold in remaining whites until thoroughly incorporated.

4. Transfer batter into the prepared pan and bake in the middle of the oven for 45 minutes. The cake will have some cracks on top and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. The cake will rise and then fall. Let the cake cool completely on a rack. Run a knife around the side of the pan and remove the side of the springform. Dust with confectioner’s sugar for serving.

The above recipe is adapted from Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking.

TARTINE AU CACAO

Chocolate cravings couldn’t get simpler than this!

Serves 2

• 2 ounces crème fraiche
• 2 thick slices of country bread or sourdough
• 2 tablespoons cocoa powder

1. Spread a thick layer of crème fraiche on each slice of bread and dust equally with cocoa powder.

2. Serve with homemade hot chocolate.

Adapted from Mireille Guiliano’s French Women Don’t Get Fat, Knopf.