| Issue #44, February 9, 2007 |
Classic Cars

With Bob Gelber
Cold driving tips for the huddled
masses. First of all, the best cold driving tip I can offer is to
get the hell outta here. Give your car a well-earned vacation at
the airport long-term parking lot and go to the Islands, Florida,
Hawaii, or anywhere it doesn’t snow. However, if you’re
like most of us and have a job, you’ve got to slog out to
your car every morning and bring home the bacon.
When it’s really below freezing,
avoid locking your car overnight, especially if it’s parked
outside, simply because the locks can freeze. Most new cars thankfully
have remote locking and opening features, which is great, because
at least one doesn’t have to worry about a frozen key slot.
If, presently, you don’t have this feature in your car, look
for it in your next automobile purchase. Also, avoid using the parking
brake when parked overnight if it’s slushy or snowy. It is
very easy for the parking brake cable to freeze and immobilize the
car. Most cars today have automatic transmissions so owners just
leave them in the “park” position on the shifter. This
is just fine and in fact the only time I ever use the handbrake
in an automatic transmission equipped vehicle is when I’m
parked on a steep hill.
Make sure you have fresh wiper blades
for the windshield. Also make sure the windshield washer reservoir
is full with winter blend washer fluid. Winter blend fluid is important,
because if not mixed for the winter, it can freeze and split the
water bottle. Also and this is very important, never but never turn
on your windshield wipers to clean heavy snow or packed ice off
the windshield. Clear the glass first, and make sure the wipers
are not frozen stuck to the windshield. The most common winter related
car repair is the replacement of the windshield wiper motor that
has been turned on while the wipers are somehow frozen to the windshield.
This is expensive damage, labor intensive to repair, with a cost
of between 500 to 1,000 bucks.
Make sure you have a fresh battery
in the car. When it’s below thirty-two degrees, even the newest
batteries develop less than 50% of their cranking power on a cold
start. In my experience, even the best batteries have a life span
of about three years. Today’s new cars, with all their electronic
gizmos, use about the same amount of electricity as a small Vietnamese
village, so be aware of your battery’s condition. If the lights
seem to get brighter when you give it gas, or it seems to struggle
to start, the odds are the battery is on its way out.
Sometimes when it’s really
cold out, the inside of the car’s windows seem to fog up.
The best thing to do under these conditions is to put on the air
conditioning. With most cars, you can mix the dry air conditioned
air with heated air. This is the best trick of all. In fact, in
cars that have a automatic climate control system, the air conditioning
usually comes on automatically even in the coldest weather simply
to keep the windows clear.
Make sure your tires have a lot of
meat on them. If you drive a two-wheel drive automobile, this is
very important. It may sound obvious, but thick tread is better
in the snow. Forget about trying to drive on high performance rubber,
which many tire manufacturers call summer tires, in the snow. They
are terrible and frankly dangerous in snow or icy conditions. I
usually don’t give product recommendations, but several years
ago Bridgestone lent me a set of four Bridgestone Blizzack winter
snow tires that I mounted on my front wheel drive car for one season.
I have to say that the snow adhesion was simply amazing and the
tires went through all sorts of muck and mire almost like it was
a four-wheel drive SUV. The only downside to these tires is that
you have to mount them on all four wheels, with the routine handling
on dry pavement degraded.
When starting out on a really cold
morning, let the car warm up for about a minute and then start driving
very, very slowly. I usually tap the brakes just to make sure nothing
is frozen in that vital area. Keep your eye on the water temperature
gauge. That and the amount of heat coming out of your heater vents
will tell you when the car is warmed up enough to accelerate hard.
One of the worst things you can do to a cold car engine is to give
it full throttle. Also, be aware that even though the water in the
system may initially be warm, the oil in the engine lags about five
minutes behind the water in reaching proper operating temperature.
Most wear in a car’s engine occurs during cold starts. Now,
that’s something to think about.
What do cars like about cold weather?
Well, basically nothing, except for the fact that they run cooler
at high speeds. Oh yeah, turbocharged and supercharged cars love
cold air because they actually develop more horsepower when the
air is cold and dense. But these are rare birds. Most normal cars
are just like you and me. They like being warm and taken care of.
They hate getting wet except when being washed. They like a nice
garage roof over their heads. They don’t want to be abused,
just loved. Take care of them and they will take care of you. Oh
yeah, one more thing: they like the Hamptons better in the summer
than in the winter.
Bob Gelber, an automotive journalist
living in the Hamptons, appears regularly on television as an automotive
expert. You can email him at
bobgelber@aol.com
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