Dan’s North Fork

Farmer Bar
4805 Depot Lane
Cutchogue, NY
631-734-5410d

by Roy Bradbrook

With my wife and co-reviewer, Stella out of action following major surgery, I enlisted the help of our eldest son, Peter, a devotee of barbecue in all its forms on this visit.

But let’s get serious about Farmer Bar. Ron Phillip and Dan Reyburn took over this restaurant, which has seen many incarnations over the years and over the past two plus years, Farmer Bar has become something of a Mecca for the carnivores of Long Island. When you think of it, barbecue (if you include grilling, which most strict barbecue enthusiasts will not), may well be the most popular pastime in North America. Arguments rage about the type of wood to use, the marinades, the rubs, and down South, each State proudly claims the best and most authentic version. Barbecue contests attract large television audiences.

Ron is the Pit Master at Farmer Bar, and as you talk with him, his love for barbecue shines through. Everything is prepared on site and Ron emphasized that true barbecue requires long slow cooking at low temperatures so that sometimes even with the best planning, at peak times a dish may not be available, and they will never take shortcuts because the integrity of the food is paramount. They do not take reservations and as the popularity of Farmer Bar built, there can be wait times for tables. Waiting with a glass of one of the good beers or wines is not too much of a hardship especially as the smell of the barbecue continues to stimulate the taste buds.

Wines are primarily from Long Island producers, look out shortly for the debut of the House wines produced and bottled by Peconic Wineries. These will be named as “Swinewine’ as a tribute to the porkers who make all of this food possible! Bring your appetite with you. This is not a place for the faint hearted. Portions are large and prices and remarkably reasonable for food of this quality.

We started with a bowl of their special chili that has won many awards. I normally do not like chili because it can be harsh, but this was a revelation with soft smooth deep tastes that built on the palate rather than assaulted it.

With it Ron sent out some biscuits and gravy that were totally different in texture and taste, but were equally interesting. Corn bread is an integral part of a barbecue feast and theirs came out hot light and fluffy. I had heard rave reviews of the fried pork chop and we had to agree that the reality more than met our expectations. Sea salted and deep-fried, the meat was juicy and full of locked in flavors. If your taste is not for meat try the blackened catfish, again very complex but smooth spices and perfectly prepared. There also is vegetarian pasta on the menu that really sounds interesting but there was no way that this was going to be a vegetarian night

If you are ready for a challenge, try the ‘Memphis Throw-down’ on your own, but it’s probably better to share this selection of pulled pork, smoked brisket, ribs and chicken. The pulled pork was moist and delicate, the brisket cooked to perfection and the smoked chicken was a delight. You can have the ribs either St Louis style – slightly chewy or the ‘falling off the bone’ Kansas City style was what we chose. These again are not your delicate baby back ribs but large spare ribs with loads of meat on the bones. Caroline Lundy ham reminds you of how delectable ham can and should be and this was one of the best ever. By this time we could only take a token taste of three of the largest plumpest tastiest smoked sausages we had ever seen that came flanked by a mound of superb mashed potato.

As we ate and drank a glass or two of the world award winning Blue Point Brewery’s Toasted Lager, a superb accompaniment to the meal, we talked more with Ron and he explained his concept of barbecue as, “The food of the people – one look at the menu and layers of stress melt away.” Certainly you won’t have the stress of looking at outrageous prices. Sandwiches are mainly $10; BBQ platters – and I mean platters – are from $16 to only $23 for the massive Memphis Throwdown. Two of the fried pork chops with salad corn bread and two sides comes in at $16 – incredible value. Another thing is that prices are in full dollars not for Ron and Dan what they refer to as the ‘95ing’ so beloved of many establishments. Farmer Bar is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner.

As we finished and relaxed with a taste of a great apple pear crisp and a cup of strong coffee, a replete Peter told me that this was the best barbeque meal he had ever eaten and I certainly would go along with his assessment. Farmer Bar is a great place for all kinds of parties and family meals or just if you want to taste how good barbecue can be – full of taste, not greasy and redolent of the smoke of apple, cherry and hickory woods that Ron carefully blends to make his particular special flavors. No wonder so many people are prepared to wait patiently for their turn to indulge!