| Issue #43 - January 30, 2009 |
Simple Art of Cooking
The Game Day Meal, with or without TV
Silvia Lehrer
Having a Game Day party? Thinking about pizza, chicken wings, dips and chips? Oh, and what about chili? All great ideas and typical fare for the much awaited Super Bowl Sunday. Chili, of course, comes in many forms, the classic ground or tiny pieces of shaved beef or even a meatless chili vegetarian style. Some say the real McCoy is bean-less or even tomato-less chili.
I was inspired by a Bon Appetit cover featuring butternut squash brisket chili. The butternut squash sitting on my counter was slated for a risotto or a soup. However the chili with winter squash just called out loud and clear. The list of ingredients was formidable, including lots of heat, which for my taste buds had to be tamed. There is still enough of a kick in the dish for those who like it hot. After reviewing the list, I decided the recipe could be prepared over a day or two, perfect for a do-ahead party chili. Colorful garnishes to serve with the chili add to the festivities.
To further tame the chili, wedges of buttery roasted apples with sweet spices are a welcome and suitable pairing. This team will surely be a winner.
TEXAS BEEF BRISKET CHILI
This all beef no bean chili gets extra-added appeal from winter butternut squash.
Prepare the chili up to 2 days ahead.
Serves 8-10
3 large dried ancho chilies
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 4-5 pound flat-cut brisket, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon each coarse (kosher) salt and paprika
2 large onions, about 4 cups chopped
4 large cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon dry oregano
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt
1 28-oz. can whole tomatoes with liquid
1 12 ounce bottle beer, preferably Mexican
1 1/2 cups chopped fresh cilantro stems
2 1/2-3 pound butternut squash, peeled and cut into one-inch cubes
Freshly ground pepper
For the garnish
Fresh cilantro leaves
Chopped red onion
Diced avocado
1. Place chilies in a medium bowl with boiling water to cover. Soak for 30 minutes until softened. Drain, stem, seed and shred chilies. Reserve soaking liquid.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Heat oil in a large ovenproof casserole, such as Le Creuset. Toss the brisket pieces with salt and paprika and sauté in batches until brown on all sides. Transfer meat to a side dish and put the onions in the casserole. Sauté onions for four to five minutes, stirring occasionally until tender.
3. Place shredded chilies in bowl of food processor or blender with one cup soaking liquid, garlic, chili powder, cumin seeds, coriander, oregano and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Blend to purée, adding more soaking liquid by 1/4 cupfuls if very thick. Pour purée over brisket in the casserole. Add tomatoes with juice, beer and cilantro stems and stir to coat evenly.
4. Bring chili to a simmer on the stovetop. Cover and place in oven. Cook two hours. Uncover and cook until beef is almost tender, about one hour. Add squash and stir to coat in the liquid. Roast uncovered until beef and squash are tender, adding more soaking liquid or broth if needed to keep meat covered, about 45 minutes longer. Season chili to taste with salt and pepper. Skim off any surface fat.
To serve: set out garnishes in small separate dishes. Ladle chili into bowls and serve.
The above recipe is adapted from Bon Appetit magazine, October, 2008
ROASTED APPLE WEDGES WITH APPLE CIDER
This simplified baked apple version from Suzanne Goin's Sunday Supper at Lucques (Knopf) is a delicious way to finish a winter feast
Serves 6-8
6 tart apples, Golden delicious or greenings, cored and cut into wedges
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted to a nutty brown
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons turbinado sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons fresh apple cider
1/4 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
Vanilla or caramel ice cream, optional
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place apple wedges in a bowl. Pour over the cooled melted butter. Add both sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, cider and salt, and gently toss to mix. Arrange apples cut side up in a shallow roasting/serving pan spooning over pan juices. Lightly sprinkle additional sugar over the apples.
2. Bake apples about 40 minutes, basting with pan juices occasionally, until apples are tender and caramelized. Serve warm with ice cream, as desired.
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