Over the Barrel

ONABAY Is Onto Something

By Lenn Thompson

Onabay Vineyards (www.onabayvineyards.com) is one of the North Fork's newest producers, but not everything is new about them. In fact, there is plenty of history - and experience - behind their wines.

With a vineyard that is 18 years old, and managed by veteran vineyard manager Steve Mudd, and Bruce Schneider of Schneider Vineyards making the wines, the Anderson family is setting themselves up for success.

Why the name? Well, the vineyard is on a bay. Thus, Onabay Vineyards.

This is a true family-run winery. The Anderson family, who own the 180-acre farm that houses the vineyard, is involved in every aspect of the winery's operations. Francesca Anderson, a renowned botanical artist, created the drawings of herons that appear on the front labels. Her daughter, Mia C. Anderson, a published poet, wrote the poems that grace the back labels. Francesca's other daughter, Chiara Anderson Edmands, oversees the winery's marketing and promotional efforts.

Their portfolio consists of three chardonnays and two merlots - the staples of North Fork wine.

Onabay Vineyards' 2006 "Unwooded" Chardonnay ($22) is a wine intended to highlight chardonnay's true character - rather than oak or the winemaker's talent. To that end, this wine is fermented entirely in stainless steel and malo-lactic fermentation was strictly avoided. The nose is light, even austere, with citrus-lemon aromas, faint apples and a minerality reminiscent of the sea. That mineral component is even more intense on a medium-bodied palate and is joined by lemon zest and green apple flavors. There is just enough acid here and the finish is lengthy. If I ate oysters, I'd like to give this wine another try with them.

Partially fermented in oak barrels, Onabay Vineyards' 2007 Chardonnay ($18) it distinctly toasty on the nose with roasted hazelnut, pear and vanilla aromas on the nose. The palate brings bright apple, pear and apple candy flavors with a squirt of grapefruit and a vein of minerality that runs through the wine. Fresh acidity makes this a good, easy-drinking chardonnay.

My favorite of the chardonnay lineup was the Onabay Vineyards' 2006 "Wild Ferment" Chardonnay ($25) which, as the name implies, was fermented using naturally occurring yeasts. White flowers, ripe Bartlett pear and a light sprinkling of baking spice mingle on the nose before giving way to elegant tree fruit, spice and candied lemon peel flavors on the palate. This wine is well balanced with acidity and has a long finished that tastes of baked pear and toffee.

Onabay Vineyards 2006 Merlot ($19) is 95% merlot with 5% cabernet franc blended in. The nose displays red raspberry, strawberry jam, cedar and tobacco aromas with a hint of minerality. The palate is Old World in its flavor profile, combining red fruit flavors with those of cigar box, earth and spice. The mid-palate is a little thin though and the finish is a bit shorter than expected.

By far my favorite of the portfolio was the Onabay Vineyards 2006 "Night Heron" Merlot ($25), a blend of 86% merlot, 9% cabernet franc and 5% syrah. A nicely extracted medium-dark garnet in the glass, the nose presents nice dark fruit aromas of black cherry, black berry and even a little blueberry, accented by basil, thyme and a little smokiness.

That same dark fruit character, black cherry and black raspberry this time, leads on an elegant, medium-bodied palate. Secondary flavors of herbs, mocha and subtle graphite - especially on the long finish - add layers of complexity. The tannins are of medium-intensity, but well integrated. They bring grip but don't overwhelm or punish the palate.

This is a well-priced, delicious merlot that represents Long Island's unique terroir extremely well.

These wines are available at The Tasting Room, a co-op tasting room on Peconic Lane for wineries that don't have their own tasting rooms.

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