Dans Hamptons

With winter weather finally upon us, I cannot imagine a better way to pass a pleasant evening than by tucking into some soul-warming comfort food. There’s plenty of time yet before spring (and the inevitable bathing suit moment of truth) to savor the rich delights of roasts and fois gras\ and if a recent visit to The Olde Speonk Inn is any indication, here is sophisticated comfort food at its finest.

The Inn, under new ownership since last summer, beckons from the roadside with twinkling white lights. The interior has been updated with dark red walls and art depicting vintage wine bottles and cups of steaming coffee. Conversation is easy, even when the restaurant is full, as it was on the evening of our visit.

Steven Bower, a self-taught chef who came to the Inn four years ago by way of Westhampton’s Starr Boggs and the legendary Saratoga Springs’ racing outpost Ciro’s (“a cross between Goodfellas and Gone with the Wind, quips the chef), is well-versed in classic preparations and clearly will not suffer inferior ingredients. Fine oils and vinegars are key players, as are supremely fresh fish and produce.

We began with two popular appetizers from the menu: plump baked mussels on the half shell with Pernod, herb butter and a touch of garlic ($9) and a succulent grilled squab and sea scallop skewer served atop micro arugula ($16). The tiny greens tasted as if they were just pulled from the earth and the large mollusks wrapped in crispy Speck ham (cold-smoked in the Italian Alps) were drizzled with heavenly white truffle honey. Two other appetizers, both featuring house-made ravioli, were specials. A lobster-stuffed version featured chorizo sausage in a saffron-tomato broth. Chunks of lobster meat mingled with crèème fresh poured from the pasta into the broth at the touch of a fork creating a sublime, bread-dipping emulsion. The second ravioli was stuffed with tender fois gras and set atop a puddle of rich, brown porcini mushroom reduction sauce infused with brandy. Bower is a “scratch” chef, so he makes all of his own stocks and demi-glace. This practice results in sauces with great complexity.

Salad options include an excellent, authentic Caesar (i.e., no creamy dressing, $7) and a mix of “Gathered Greens” ($8) dressed with a vinaigrette that would benefit from a touch more acidity.

Three of the entrees tasted were standouts. I had read about the house swordfish ($28) but was not prepared for the moist, herb-crusted tower sitting in a pool of luscious lemon beurre blanc. Fish as comfort food? Escorted by its plate mate of perfectly mashed potatoes (I suspect a bit of crème fresh added here) answers with a resounding “yes”! Lamb three ways – braised shank, house-cured lamb bacon and grilled chop – in a rich brown reduction sauce is excellent ($35) as is slow-roasted chicken ($22), often a token offering on white tablecloth establishment menus. Here it is bathed in balsamic syrup and sage oil and escorted by a mouth-watering (OK, sinful) aged provolone polenta. This dish is so popular according to our server, James, that one customer comes in every week just for this and a Caesar salad. We understand.

A pan-seared, sushi-grade yellowfin tuna steak ($27), cooked rare and sliced atop a papaya emulsion, will satisfy those looking for lighter fare. Not sampled, but popular according to James, are the grilled flat iron steak with chimichurri goose butter ($26) and a grilled New York sirloin with Cabernet sauce ($34).

Desserts are house made with the exception of ice cream. The star is an excellent pistachio tart with a flaky short crust.

The wine list includes ten offerings by the glass ($6-9) and reasonably priced domestic and imported bottles ($28-75). The only local winery represented is Paumanok and while I am a big fan of their Riesling (on the list), it would be nice to see some other fine locals added.

This is the perfect spot for Valentine’s Day, especially for foodies. Request a table by the window and if in the mood to splurge, order a bottle of Mumm NV Brut Champagne ($45) to get things going.

Open for dinner Sunday, Tuesday-Thursday 5:30-9:30 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays 5-10 p.m. Cocktails Tuesday-Sunday evenings and live entertainment Friday and Saturday evenings in the adjacent Pub @ O.S.I.