| Issue #41 - January 16, 2009 |
Simple Art of Cooking
Parsnips - A Sweet Alternative
by Silvia Lehrer
Parsnips, a much underused vegetable, can look like a carrot, but is often broader at the root end tapering to very slender tips. When cooks choose to be a little more adventurous they will find parsnips to be a wonderfully sweet and richly flavored alternative.
The British and Eastern Europeans use them frequently; the French and Americans throw them into soups and pot-au-feu. I was delighted to pick up a large batch at my "root cellar" farm stand several weeks ago. I refer to this particular local farm stand as my "root cellar" as it stays open in a little house after all the local farm stands close. And you are "on your honor" until they run out of their local winter produce. Parsnips are a cold weather vegetable. They don't even taste right until they have spent time in very cold temperatures, which convert starch to sugar. They lend a subtle, nutty sweetness to soups, purées and crisps. Try them. You'll like them.
PARSNIP AND CARROT SOUP WITH GINGER
Serves 4-6
3 large parsnips, about two pounds, peeled
6 cups vegetable stock, preferably homemade, or water
1/2 cup chopped cilantro stems plus sprigs for garnish
4 thin slices ginger, peeled
3 tablespoons butter or canola oil
1 large onion, chopped
3/4 pound carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 tablespoon white rice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup milk or cream to thin soup as needed
1. Cut two of the parsnips crosswise in thirds, then cut into thirds lengthwise. Cut away the cores. Reserve the other parsnip. If you're making stock, include the parsnip trimming, cilantro stems and one slice of ginger. Brown the vegetables before adding the water to bring out their flavor.
2. Heat two tablespoons of butter in a soup pot over medium heat, letting it brown a little. Add the vegetables, remaining ginger and the coriander. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion and carrots have begun to brown here and there. Add the rice and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and cook a few minutes more. Add the strained stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer partially covered until vegetables are very soft, about 35 minutes. Remove the ginger then purée the soup, leaving a little texture or not, as you wish. For a very smooth soup, pass it through a food mill.
3. Dice the third parsnip into little cubes and cook in the remaining butter in a skillet, stirring frequently, until golden and tender, for about eight minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve the soup with a spoonful of parsnips added to each bowl. Garnish with sprigs of cilantro.
Reprinted from Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, Broadway, 1997
GRATIN OF POTATOES AND PARSNIPS
Prepare the entire gratin up to one day ahead then bake when ready to serve.
Serves 6
3 large parsnips, about 1 1/3 pounds
2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, about 1 1/3 pounds
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup half and half
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
Grated nutmeg
2/3 cup grated Gruyere cheese, about two ounces
1. Peel the parsnips and cut them into 1-inch chunks. Cook them in boiling salted water until tender at the pierce of a knife - about 16-18 minutes. Drain and cool under a spray of cold water. Set aside.
2. Peel the potatoes and cut into 1-inch chunks. Place in a saucepan with cold water to cover by two inches and bring to the boil. Cook at a brisk simmer for 18-20 minutes or until tender. Drain. Purée combined vegetables in a food mill over a bowl, scraping down sides as necessary.
3. Heat butter with the half and half and whip into the vegetables with a large wooden spoon. Season mixture with salt, pepper and freshly grated nutmeg to taste. Transfer to a gratin or shallow baking/serving dish and coat with the grated cheese. The gratin can be prepared up to one day ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate as necessary.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
4. Bring gratin to room temperature if refrigerated. Bake in preheated oven for 15-20 minutes before serving.
PARSNIP CAKES
Any root vegetable suitable for mashing such as carrots, potatoes and turnips, can be used for this recipe, either on their own or in combination. A variety of spices and herbs can also be added.
Serves 4
1 pound parsnips
6 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons butter, melted
Several grinds fresh nutmeg to taste
Coarse (kosher) salt and pepper
1 egg, beaten
1/3-1/2 cup dry bread crumbs, preferably your own
Vegetable oil for frying
1. Peel parsnips and cut into 1-inch chunks. Cook in boiling salted water until tender, for about 16-18 minutes. Drain and purée in a food mill over a bowl. Add flour, butter and nutmeg and season to taste with salt and pepper. With a large wooden spoon, stir mixture well until ingredients are thoroughly incorporated.
2. Divide mixture into four equal pieces and mold each piece into a round flat cake, about 3 1/4 inches in diameter and 1/2-3/4 inch deep. Dip each one into beaten egg; then into breadcrumbs, pressing well for an even coating on both sides. Arrange cakes on a plate, one layer deep, loosely cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for an hour or longer to firm.
3. Bring cakes to room temperature. Heat about 1- 1 1/2-inch oil in a cast iron or aluminum skillet and sauté cakes for 3-4 minutes on each side until they're cooked through and are golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve as light supper with a salad or as an accompanying vegetable.
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