Dan's Papers - January 18, 2008 - Over the Barrel... with Lenn Thompson

Lieb's wines are made next door at Premium Wine Group, the East Coast's only custom-crush winemaking facility. Much like the Wizard of Oz, it's sometimes hard to know who the winemaker is of a particular Lieb wine, unless you ask.

For instance, they now have two bubblies in their portfolio, made by two different winemakers.

Introduced for the first time late last year, their second-label 2004 Bridge Lane Bubbly ($27) is impressive from the first refreshing sip. Made with 60 percent pinot noir and 40 percent chardonnay by French-born Gilles Martin, this is a nice value in traditionally made sparkling wine. Apple, honey, and faintly yeasty flavors come through here with a slightly creamy mouth feel, fine bubbles, and nice acidity.

Lieb Cellars' 2004 Blanc de Blancs ($35), made by Eric Fry of Lenz Winery, is 100 percent pinot blanc and utterly elegant. The nose offers crisp, fresh aromas of Seckel pear and lemon zest with an intriguing minty, floral note lurking in the background. Just as fresh on a delicate, zesty palate there are light apple and pear flavors accented by hints of citrus zest and minerals. Subtle yeasty notes give way to a long, clean finish. This is a perennial favorite.

Over the years, we've bought quite a bit of Lieb's second-label chardonnay, named Bridge Lane. We've served it at parties, bought it for pinot-grigio loving friends who want to try Long Island wine, and consumed quite a bit of it ourselves. At $14 (less with the club discount) it's been a good house wine for us. The 2005 vintage, however, was a bit of a disappointment. Maybe it was the hotter-than-usual growing season, but it is just a bit flat.

Made entirely in stainless steel with 10 percent pinot blanc blended in, the nose isn't expressive, but offers some nice apple and pineapple-mango aromas. Medium bodied and fruit forward, the palate has more apples, a little melon, sweet lemon and tropical flavors. Typically, this wine is fresh, and crisp, but this vintage seems a bit flatter, with just barely enough acidity. It still finishes clean, and certainly doesn't delve into the flabby realm. It's a little flat though and just not lively enough.

One wine that never fails to satisfy, however, is Lieb Family Cellars Pinot Blanc, and the 2006 bottling ($19) doesn't either. The aromas are more intense than many somewhat-neutral pinot blancs with nice scents of pear, minerals, honeydew melon, and citrus zest. It is ripe with juicy pear flavors accented by clean citrus, mineral, and faint honey notes. Medium bodied and lively with fresh acidity it's a perfect aperitif to open a fine meal.

General Manager Gary Madden, the sometimes-reluctant face of the winery, is a fellow cabernet franc fan and Lieb Famly Cellars 2004 Cabernet Franc Reserve ($24) sets a new standard for the grape at the winery. With smoky, earthy and cherry aromas and a sprinkling of fresh herbs, this is classic Long Island cab franc. Similar flavors - cherry; faint smoke, dusty cocoa, and mint - entice and satisfy. This red is medium bodied, well-balanced and smooth.

Good, but not great, is Lieb Family Cellars 2003 Merlot Reserve ($20). The nose is a bit taut with only light blackberry, plum, and spice, but the palate is plummy with cherry, vanilla, sweet cedar, and subtle earthiness. At $20, it's a relative bargain, despite the aromatic challenges.

It seems that most Long Island wineries are producing high-end blends these days and Lieb is no different, except that theirs is worth the price when many are not. Lieb Family Cellars 2002 Meritage ($40), a Bordeaux-style blend of 66 percent merlot, 17 percent petit verdot, nine percent cabernet sauvignon, and eight percent cabernet franc, this is a balanced, refined red with plenty of Long Island character. Nice black fruit and black pepper aromas are accented by earthy and floral notes. Medium bodied and showing nice complexity, it features blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit flavors with slightly smoky, herbal, and mocha notes in the background. Smooth, well-integrated tannins provide just the right structure too. This one should have some shelf life as well, up to five years.

In talking with Madden over the past week or so, he's also let me know that they will be releasing their first varietal syrah soon and they've also made a white merlot. He assures me that it's not going to be like West Coast white merlot - this one will be dry and refreshing rather than syrupy sweet.