Dan's Papers -December 19, 2008 - Ahhh, the Return of the Dinner Party

The winter holidays shout party time. It's a time to gather friends and family for cocktails with light 'savories' or a cocktail buffet, which are often large affairs. You pretty much know the rules, mingle, mingle, mingle, have a drink and a nibble and chat with whoever you happen to be next to. I love it. It's festive and fun, yet I often wonder, whatever happened to the six to eight-person dinner party? You know, the kind where it may take a bit of effort over a couple of days to prepare some of your favorite dishes to share with close friends - friends who may or may not know each other, but who you know will be compatible - which is the central idea. There will be time to talk and time to simply enjoy leisurely conversation around the dining table.

The table should be set with a holiday theme and the elegance of your service. Tall candlesticks add drama and color or float individual votive candles around a treasured centerpiece, a beautiful tureen or simply a pedestal bowl, retrieved from your cupboard, piled high with a panoply of fresh seasonal fruits garnished with greenery. It's your individual touches to the table that make a setting that will be warm, comfortable and receptive.

Then there is the food - food that should echo the season. Hearty short ribs, lamb or veal shanks - those long cooked braised comfort foods that are best made up to a day ahead - are a boon to the hosts. Think earthy ingredients at this time of the year, such as a variety of root vegetables that caramelize when slowly roasted to capture their sweetness. Stews of beef or chicken can be elegant, a boeuf bourguignon served with homemade croutons or chicken fricassee and mushrooms with rice pilaf. Do-ahead salads incorporating lively greens, an intensely flavorful cheese and perhaps candied nuts is a satisfying way to begin. Poached fruits are always best when done ahead and are a sweet light note to end a meal. The timing is certainly right for dishes that not only look and taste rich but can also be luxury for less.

These are merely suggestions; it's up to you to approach your menu with the food you would most like to eat and recipes that you can easily prepare. If you look over the recipes carefully you'll find that much can be done ahead of time and refrigerated, sometimes even frozen then defrosted overnight in the refrigerator. Be practical with your cooking decisions. Before you get carried away about preparing a particular dish, think about your equipment in terms of saucepans, skillets and the casserole and/or platters to serve the food in where necessary. Remember to select and place your serving utensils, glass and bar ware, cocktail napkins and wine bottle opener before your guests arrive. You don't want to start dragging these items out of a cabinet or drawer at the last moment. I've been guilty of this.

Whether you're planning a sit down dinner or cocktail buffet, many of the above rules apply to either setting. And when all is said and done, plan a little extra food to send over to the local food bank or homeless shelter. It just may be the best holiday gift you can give.