| Issue #39, December 21, 2007 |
Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column
In the Southern United States, eating black eyed peas on New Years Eve is thought to bring good luck. The Japanese believe that black beans are a food for the New Year because they symbolize hard work and diligence. It is a Cuban tradition to eat 12 grapes at the stroke of midnight signifying the last 12 months of the year. Eating pickled herring as the first bite of the New Year is said to bring good luck to those of Polish heritage. Problem is I can't imagine eating herring after the stroke of midnight - as I don't think it will marry well with my glass of champagne.
Now I do love beans, especially dried beans such as Great Northern, black beans or Cannellini. And aren't they all in the same legume category as black eyed peas? A pureed dip of garlicky white beans with roasted sweet pepper is delicious spread on crostini to serve as an appetizer for the New Year. Cannellini beans with shrimp can accompany whatever else you have planned for your holiday buffet and Cuban black beans with sofrito, a savory mixture of onions, garlic, sweet pepper and tomato, is a satisfying dish that works extremely well as a first course served in a small soup bowl or to accompany a main course. The updated version below is topped with a dollop of creme fraiche and a sprinkle of cayenne. I hope these recipes bring you good luck, along with a safe and peaceful New Year.
ROAST PEPPER AND WHITE BEAN DIP
Yield: About 3 cups puree
For the beans
1/2 pound dried Great Northern beans, soaked overnight in fresh water to cover.
7-8 cups water for cooking the beans
2 whole cloves garlic
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1-2 teaspoons salt
For the peppers
2 red bell peppers
For the dressing
2 finely chopped garlic cloves (or 5 cloves roasted garlic cloves)
1 1/2 teaspoons toasted cumin seeds (toast in dry skillet and grind up)
1/8 teaspoon hot pepper flakes
2 - 2 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 - 1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1 1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise or to taste
1. Drain beans; rinse in cold water and place in a large saucepan with fresh water. Add garlic and olive oil. Bring to the edge of a boil and cook over medium heat with cover ajar about 40-45 minutes. Water should maintain a lazy surface bubble. Add salt and cook about 10 minutes longer until tender. When beans are thoroughly cooked - they should be very tender, drain in a colander over a bowl and reserve liquid. Pour liquid into a small saucepan and simmer briskly until reduced by half.
2. Meanwhile grill or broil peppers until charred on all sides. Turn them slowly with tongs as their skins blacken on all sides. Transfer to a paper bag and allow them to steam until cool enough to handle. Place in a colander over a bowl. Remove seeds and peel, then cut into strips on a board.
3. Combine dressing ingredients in a bowl. Place cooked beans, reduced liquid and peppers in a food processor. Add dressing and process to a puree. Taste to adjust seasonings if necessary. Pile into an attractive rustic bowl and serve with crostini or a mix of crackers.
Note: Can be prepared up to 2-3 days ahead.
CANNELLINI AND SHRIMP
I tasted a version of this dish in Milan, Italy in the late 70's. The taste was superb then as it is now.
Serves 10-12
1 pound cannellini, soaked overnight in fresh cold water to cover
2 quarts water for cooking the beans
4-6 fresh sage leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried sage leaf
2 whole cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon olive oil
1-2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt
Vinaigrette
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon grainy Dijon mustard
1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
10-12 large cooked shrimp
1. Drain beans. Place in a large saucepan with 2 quarts fresh cold water, sage, garlic, and oil. Bring to the edge of a boil over medium heat and skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Simmer for about 45-50 minutes with cover ajar. Water should maintain a lazy surface bubble. Add salt and cook ten minutes longer until tender, be careful not to overcook. Drain beans in a colander over a bowl and reserve liquid. Pour liquid into a small saucepan and simmer briskly until reduced by half. Pour over the beans.
2. Place chopped garlic, mustard, vinegar and pepper in a mixing bowl and stir to mix. Whisk in oil until thoroughly blended. Dress the beans, and with a large rubber spatula toss gently to mix, being careful not to break beans. Cut cooked shrimp into 1/2 inch dice and add to beans. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary.
Note: Can be prepared up to 2-3 days ahead.
CUBAN BLACK BEANS
Serves 10-12
1 package (1 pound) black beans
1 green pepper left whole
1 small onion, diced
Sofrito
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 onions, peeled and finely chopped
2 red peppers cut into small dice
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 cup dry red wine
2/3 cup coarsely cut fresh or canned tomatoes
1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
Bay leaf
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin powder
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
About 1 cup reserved bean liquid (from cooked beans)
1 cup chicken stock
1. Soak beans for several hours or overnight. Drain and transfer to a saucepan with the pepper and onion. Add fresh cold water to cover. Cook at a brisk simmer with cover ajar for 1 1/2 hours or until beans are tender but not falling apart. Drain beans over a bowl, discard pepper and onion: reserve bean liquid.
2. Meanwhile, prepare sofrito: Heat oil in a saucepan. Add chopped onion and diced red pepper and saute, stirring occasionally until onions are translucent, about 7-8 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute longer. Add wine vinegar and red wine, bring to a boil, and then reduce heat to a simmer. Add tomatoes, parsley, bay leaf, cayenne, cumin, salt and pepper and simmer with cover ajar for 15 minutes. Discard bay leaf.
3. Add drained beans, 1 cup bean liquid and stock to sofrito sauce and gently stir to mix. Simmer with cover ajar for up to one hour, checking doneness after 45 minutes or so. Beans should be completely tender with enough sauce to coat them. Beans should not be dry, if necessary add more reserved bean liquid to keep them moist.
4. Before serving transfer beans to a large ovenproof serving dish and simmer with cover ajar until heated through. Can be prepared up to 2 days ahead, refrigerated and reheated.
Back to Contents
|
|