Dan's Papers - December 21, 2007

In one regard, Pierre's gives patrons what they expect: a small, cozy atmosphere; good French food; a host who often greets customers in French, a French flag hanging outside the front door.

In another regard, Pierre's possesses a split personality. How is this possible?

Consider the atmosphere in the day compared to the night - literally the difference between night and day. Consider also the current exhibition of photographs by Erica Lansner on the wall, the Asian subject matter contrasting sharply with the surrounding French ambience. Somehow the contradictions work.

While the food is exceptional, offering mostly French cuisine, there are still selections like the salads and red snapper, as examples, that can be found in most upscale restaurants. Even so, we decide to break our habit of eating no red meat and opt for the traditional French fare we remember from our frequent visits to France: escargot, steak au poivre, pommes frites and a French tarte. And yes, you can also get these items at non-French restaurants, but they're not as good.

The small touches were also effective, such as the warm bread and cheese spread. The red wine (Merlot) hit the spot as well.

Now to the contrasting atmosphere, notably on Sunday nights when there's live jazz. Last week's music featured vocalist Vanessa Trouble and two musicians playing the bass and guitar. It's to Pierre's credit that they were all top-notch, performing anything from updated Christmas music to pop classics, including Rosemary Clooney favorites.

What's important was the warm, comfortable setting that was provided by the often lively music. And although we wouldn't exactly call Pierre's a bistro (it didn't have the traditional decor and seating), the feeling that was generated by the music came close.

Conversely, the daytime lunch setting evoked a different ambience with natural, rather than artificial romantic lighting, as the sun streamed through the windows. The canned music, although not "real," seemed appropriate anyway, the conviviality between the host and his patrons suggesting a neighborhood restaurant somewhat different from the Sunday night setting.

Finally, there's the role that the photographs played in conveying contrast. Modern-day Asia, of course, is a far cry from France, but the images fit right into Pierre's cheerfulness and often opposing dynamics. For example, photographer Lansner juxtaposed long shots with medium shots, children with adults, modern urban life with country scenes. Our favorites were the touches of Expressionism: a man with a bike walking though the mist; a monk working in his study; a city street reflected in red and given a mysterious quality with a tilted angle.

All in all, the photographs represented the joy of living. So does Pierre's.

- Marion Wolberg Weiss

Erica Lansner's photographs will be on view until Jan. 8, 2008. Pierre's is open everyday, lunch 11 a.m.-5 p.m. and dinner 5-10 p.m. Special prix fixe, $22 each day. Located at 2468 Main Street, Bridgehampton, NY. Call 631-537-5110.