Sparkling wine is the perfect beverage for just about any occasion – even the most usual of evenings. It’s the kind of wine that you can always count on to create a festive occasion out of one that is much more ordinary.

Of course, not everything that sparkles is Champagne, the queen of all sparklers. There’s Cava from the Penedes region of Spain, Italian Prosecco, German Sekt and, of course, sparkling wine from North America. Heck, Australia, makers of some of the world’s best shiraz even makes sparkling renditions.

Long Island, land of magnificent merlot and other still wines, doesn’t overflow with sparkling wine. The best bubblies in the world are made through Methode Champenoise technique, which is time consuming and expensive. Thus, only those truly dedicated to the craft will put the time — and money — into it. Methode Champenoise, briefly defined, is the addition of extra sugar and yeast to already-fermented wine. This causes a secondary fermentation inside each bottle that gives the wine its bubbles.

Like I said, only a handful of local wineries make sparkling wine, but there are some excellent ones being made.

It is impossible to banter about local sparklers without mentioning the Baron of Bubbly himself, Eric Fry of Lenz Winery. One of Long Island’s elder winemakers, Fry makes refined, classy sparkling wine (and still ones too) for Lenz and for other North Fork producers.

Starting with the Lenz wines, Fry’s Lenz Winery 2000 Cuvee ($30) is 70-percent pinot noir and 30-percent chardonnay, the typical grapes of the Champagne region. Dry, crisp and delightful, this is a bubbly to serve with dinner — with just about anything from roast chicken to lobster to creamy pasta dishes. It’s as versatile as it is delicious.

If you like a bit more funk in your bubbly, splurge on a bottle of Lenz Winery’s 1994 RD ($50), which has an earthy, nutty character to go with a similar, but much richer and less fruity profile than the 2000. This is a wine to share with friends who love and only drink true Champagne. Show them that the French aren’t the only ones making complex sparkling wine that isn’t super fruity.

For The Old Field, Fry makes a cheery, white cherry-inflected 2001 Blanc de Noir ($35) using pinot noir grapes. This is a very dry sparkler with distinctive pinot fruit — white cherries and dried cranberry — along with great acidity and a fine bead (small bubbles, which are often an indicator of quality).

Many lovers of fine wines dismiss Pindar Winery, and in many cases that sentiment is justified. But, don’t overlook winemaker Jason Damianos’ 2000 Cuvee Rare Champagne ($28). Sure, they shouldn’t call it Champagne, but it’s a unique wine made with 100% pinot meunier grapes — a lesser known mutation of pinot noir. It has a distinctive pale copper color and nicely balanced flavors.

Lieb Family Cellars has recently released 80 more cases of its 2003 Blanc de Blancs ($35), which is made using only pinot blanc grapes. Fry made this wine as well and it is one of my favorites. Green apple, citrus and melon flavors are accented by delicate yeasty and butterscotch notes. It’s perfect paired with shellfish, light salads, or for every day celebrating.

Martha Clara Vineyards’ French-born winemaker Gilles Martin is establishing himself as yet another sparkling wine maestro. His 2001 Blanc de Blanc ($30) made primarily with chardonnay grapes displays a lightly toasty nose with loads of apple, citrus and minerals. Clean citrusy apple flavors are framed by great acidity and a lingering finish. It’s dry, but not harsh, making it perfect for appetizers and other light fare.

A beautiful, super-light coppery-pink, Martha Clara Vineyards 2001 Brut Rose ($25) is made with both chardonnay and pinot noir. More fruity than its blanc sibling, the nose has a little toasty-bisquity character, but cherries and citrus dominate the nose. Also dry, but softer and fuller, it has flavors of cherries and raspberries. Rose sparklers are an under-appreciated food foil, try this with a wide range of foods.

Before I sign off this week, I’d like to wish all of my readers a happy, and festive holiday season. Cheers!

The Barrel...

Have a Sparkling Holiday Season