My last several dining experiences at Fresno Restaurant in East Hampton have been lovely. The food was original, fresh and creative, the recommended wines were chosen with intelligence and care, and the atmosphere on the deck in the evening air was seductive and relaxing. I had high expectations when I attended the Rhone Rangers Dinner last Sunday night with my boyfriend Tom, the third in a continuing series of wine and food pairing evenings. I wasn’t expecting to be blown away. But I was.

As always, David Lowenburg and his partner, Michael Nolan, created an environment of warmth, excitement and elegance that served as the perfect backdrop to an evening of sophisticated flavors and bold choices. The Wine Dinner included presentations from Domaine Franey Wines in Amagansett who supply the tasty treats that accompany Chef Gretchen Menser’s delightful food. Each Wine Dinner focuses on a different group of wines from respected regions around the world, and the six-course meal, starting with hors d’oeuvres and ending with a cheese plate followed by a sweet dessert, showcases six wines.

The Rhone Rangers are California wines and their unique properties highlight the creativity and ambition of current production. As described in David’s introduction, these wines are not the “basics from California, but the future of California.”

We began with light and tasty tuna tartare, pungent with citrus, a rich and cool beef carpaccio, a bright raw salmon on a homemade potato chip, and a warm cheese puff with pesto. With this, we were served Pine Ridge Chenin-Viognier, 2005 Clarksburg, from Napa Valley with grapes grown in Sacramento. It is a combination of two grapes that meld ripe flavors with floral notes. It was refreshing, mellow and ushered us into the evening with grace.

Our first seated course was an enormous, sweet and grilled-to-perfection Prawn with Garlic, Rosemary and Red Pepper on Grilled Pane Rustica dripping with tangy lemon oil. We were served Tablas Creek, Cotes de Tablas Blanc, 2005, Paso Robles. Described as a “new style of wine” derived by blending a unique combination of grapes, this wine is “floral rich with no oak,” 100% organic and well-suited to the seafood prepared in rich olive oil. Just delicious.

We moved to reds and it became even more interesting. At this point, I had learned so much and sipped so much and enjoyed so much that I didn’t think I could register any more information, but the ease with which we were taught and the charm and humor of the experts made the breaks between courses an absolute pleasure.

The third wine was the Copain-Saison Des Vins L’Hiver, Syrah, 2005, Bien Nacido. A deep and velvety Syrah from Mendocino in Northern California, this wine pays homage to the grand Châteauneuf de Pape. It has a deep complexity and an unexpected richness created by the process by which it is made. In this case, the stems are pressed right in with the grapes and upon completion, out comes a dark, earthy red wine that stood up to the Pan Seared Foie Gras with Apricot Compote and Vanilla Gastrique. Tom described the foie gras as perfectly crisped on the outside and rich and creamy on the inside, with a melting, sweet glaze that almost provoked a sensual overload.

At the same time, I enjoyed a gorgeous Filet of Loup de Mer (European sea bass) over quinoa with tomato, fennel, olives and lemon oil. While seemingly a contrast, the Syrah also worked with my lighter food.

Finally, the entrées arrived. Tom’s was a Crispy Long Island Duck Confit with Butternut Squash Purée, Black Mission Figs and an Apple Cider Reduction. Obviously the duck was chosen with great care, just the right amount of fat to ensure both delicate meat underneath and a light and crispy skin, which served as a perfect vehicle for the unusual combination of spices. A few gentle pokes of the fork revealed perfectly done, seemingly pre-cut mouthfuls of duck that just fell onto the plate. The figs had a consistency and flavor that added sweetness and an interesting crunchiness, making each combined bite a study in soft and hard, sweet and salty. With this was served the Kunin, Syrah, 2003, Santa Barbara. It complimented every aspect of the dish, adding fruitiness to the layered tastes. I had Risotto with Truffles and Roasted Mushrooms, a very rich and highly flavored dish that needed such a “chewy, earthy, crunchy and textured” wine.

The cheese course was the highlight of hedonism. With it came a Vinum Cellars, Petite Sirah, 2005, Clarksburg. It was “dark, chunky and rich,” supporting and exciting the salty and creamy cheeses and we just about couldn’t take anymore.

But there was more. A pretty, elegant and exceedingly decadent Chocolate Trifecta with Espresso Crème Anglaise arrived, accompanied by the Quady, “Elysium” Black Muscat, 2005, California. The wine was syrupy, complex, sweet and tangy and the three chocolates – white chocolate mousse on a thin chocolate brownie topped with chocolate ganache – became brighter because of it, instead of cloyingly sweet. Even the cheese lover (me) had to admit to the dessert lover (Tom) that it was exceptional.

The next not-to-be-missed Wine Dinner at Fresno will be held in February, so be sure to check the website, www.fresnorestaurant.com. Fresno is open seven days a week, year round for dinner. Call (631) 324-8700 for more information.

Fresno Restaurant

8 Fresno Place East Hampton, NY 631-204-0300

8 Fresno Place
East Hampton, NY
631-204-0300