Dan's Papers - December 12, 2008 - Cooking Classes for Budding Chefs and Lazy Diners

If you drive through Bridgehampton, you've surely seen the Loaves & Fishes retail store on Main Street. If you're a foodie, you've been in the store countless times, oohing and aahing over their extraordinary inventory, including those enormously dramatic pepper mills from Russia.

Last summer, Loaves & Fishes bought a Viking Cooking School franchise, and continues its 6-year tradition of offering classes, tastings and workshops at the historic Bridgehampton Inn, built in 1795, right down the block in Bridgehampton. The school offers a variety of classes for cooks at all levels, from kids to experienced home chefs: hands-on workshops, demonstrations by a guest master chef, and kids classes for budding Emerils.

In December, some of the events still open to participants include a Sicilian Feast of the Seven Fishes. The three-hour workshop, teaches students (16 and older) how to select, season and cook fish and shellfish dishes, like seafood salad, Pasta with Clam Sauce and Crab and Spinach-Stuffed Flounder with Prosecco Saffron Butter Sauce. For $119, you learn to create the dishes in a 3-hour class, and then sit down to eat them and continue to enjoy the wine you drank during your toil.

Last Friday, I had the opportunity to enjoy a "Guest Chef" event: a Wine and Food Tasting with Chef Chris Cariello, the Coordinator of Loaves & Fishes Cooking School, and Marco and Ann Marie Borghese, owners of Castello Di Borghese (CdB) Vineyard in Cutchogue.

This is the lazy person's cooking experience. Basically, the work is done, all you have to do is "properly taste and evaluate wines while pairing them with foods." The class featured the incredible food by Cariello and offerings from Castello de Borghese.

I'm here to tell you these tastings are a well-kept secret of one of the best dining experiences you'll ever have in the Hamptons. Think about it: a four-course gourmet meal served with a variety of 7 wines; beautifully appointed tables in an elegant but not stuffy dining room; an intimate group of maybe 30 people at most; entertaining, educational presentations by the chef and in this case, wine makers. And, at the risk of sounding like an infomercial I have to say: There's more! It is a relaxed experience taking place over three hours - Read: you're not rushed out the door. But wait! The whole deal was $99.00. No tax. No tip. Just civilized dining with great food, wine and company.

When we arrived at the Inn, Warm Tuscan Bean Spread and Olive Tapenade with Loaves & Fishes Fresh Baked Bread were on the tables, paired with CdB White, Red, and a rose called Fleurette which got high marks from our group. The tapenade was like a tartar. This may sound odd, but it really tasted like olives! Just so fresh.

Next came Roasted Japanese Eggplant Stuffed with Ricotta Cheese and Topped with a Roasted Tomato Basil Sauce, Paired with CdB Sauvignon Blanc 07. This dish was high class comfort food, elegant, softly flavored. "The small skinny eggplant is less bitter. You can eat the whole plant," said Cariello.

An euphoric crab and brie bisque followed. If you ask me, this is the stuff that should be bottled, but alas, it's all about freshness. It was served with a Chardonnay but my fellow diners thought the Fleurette worked better.

The main course was a French classic with a Mediterranean twist: Herb and Dijon Crusted Rack of Lamb with Minted Cous Cous, served with CdB Merlot '01 Reserve. The meat fell from the bone. The sauce was subtle and complex. The merlot was a good, full flavored accompaniment.

The ending? A Warm Apple Pie Topped with Homemade Cinnamon Ice Cream Paired with Allegra '04. The sweet, slightly thick dessert wine was perfect with the tart/sweet apples and lovely crumbly crust.

I wouldn't hesitate to round up a small group of friends to take over a table at a tasting. If you want to go step further, do a class. By all reports from friends who have done them, it's a blast. Check the website for classes and workshops - an unusual and unusually satisfying gift for the holidays.

Loaves & Fishes: www.landfcookshop.com, 537-6066. Borghese Vineyards: borghesevinyard.com 734-5111