Over the Barrel... with Lenn Thompson

Wines Worth the Splurge

Each year, there are more and more better and better wines on the twin forks. Visit the right wineries and try the right wines, and you'll find delicious, bright Chardonnays that are far from California in style but not quite Burgundian either. Merlot, as you've probably heard, does exceptionally well in our climate. Cabernet Franc, in my opinion, does almost as well in the hands of the best vineyard managers and winemakers. Stick to the few producers that concentrate on it and you can even find deliciously interesting Cabernet Sauvignon as well. And while it's true that Long Island wines don't - and never will - fall into the "cheap" category, there are values to be found.

If you dig even deeper into Long Island's best wines, you can even find some spectacular, high-end pours that are worthy of a spot in your cellar, right along side wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy and California. It's the holidays, spoil yourself or your friends and family with Long Island's best.

If sparkling wine is your thing, Lieb Family Cellar's recently released 2004 Blanc de Blancs ($35) is one of my favorites. As is their new 2004 Bridge Lane Bubbly ($27). But, for the ultimate in Long Island bubbly, look to Lenz Winery and their 1994 Cuvee RD ($50). Made with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay - the classic grapes of Champagne - this recently disgorged (thus, RD) wine offers a tantalizingly yeasty nose and pronounced honey and caramel flavors. It's perfect for any occasion, not just New Years Eve.

Despite my personal affection for Cabernet Franc, the Merlot grape still rules Long Island, and many of Long Island's premium wines are made with it.

A year or so ago, Roman Roth, winemaker at Wolffer Estate launched his own personal wine label - Grapes of Roth - where he focuses on producing a small amount of handcrafted wine only when he finds grapes that warrant it. A few weeks ago, he released his second wine the 2002 Grapes of Roth Merlot ($50). If you buy into such things, this wine received a 92 from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, the highest score of any wine in New York. Regardless of scores, this wine is already one of the North Fork's best and should age gracefully for years. If you can still find the 2001 vintage, snatch that up. I think I like it just a little bit better.

No discussion of Long Island's premier Merlots would be complete without a trip to the Hamptons for a taste of Wolffer Estates' 2003 Premier Cru Merlot ($125). Extremely "big," this full, concentrated wine features smooth tannins and rich, luxurious berry flavors with faint lead pencil notes. The finish is lengthy with subtle sweet spice flavors of cardamom and cinnamon. It's a pricey splurge, but I think everyone should experience this wine at least once.

It's still pretty young, but another merlot worth splurging on is Bedell Cellars' 2005 Reserve Merlot ($48). Loads of blackberry preserve, fresh fig and cafe mocha aromas reach right up out of the glass and pull you in. Big, lush blackberry flavors fill the mouth, with rich chocolate and a little vanilla in the background. The extracted, broad flavors carry through from beginning to end. The structure is a little firm and this wine is very full-bodied for the region and the finish is lengthy, if just slightly astringent.

No one argues that Long Island doesn't have some great Merlot, but there are just as many exciting wines being made by blending red grape varieties in the Bordeaux or Meritage style.

Paumanok Vineyards 2004 Assemblage ($36) is one of my favorite blends right now and at $36 is a relative bargain on this list. It is layered, ripe and complex with dark fruits, and is highlighted by an elegantly long finish that stands out even in this group of reds.

For an extra 64 dollars, you can spring for a bottle of Macari Vineyards' 2005 Solo Uno ($100). It's a beautifully dark wine in the glass, with a nose is similarly dark with ripe black plum and blackberry aromas with wet earth, leather, and espresso. Similar flavors carry over on the palate and are joined by a little meaty character, terrific mouth-feel, medium-grip tannins and just a little alcohol heat on the long, coffee-and-toffee finish.

And, I can't talk about local red blends without pointing you to Roanoke Vineyards in Riverhead. Both their Blend 1 ($30) and Blend 2 ($38) are delicious gifts for the season and will work with a variety of hearty winter foods. Right now, I prefer the Blend 1, but these are wines that evolve and change every time I try them in the tasting room.

Many of these wines are available for tasting at the various tasting rooms. You may need to pay a little extra, but it's well worth it. It's the holidays. Enjoy yourself!

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