Dan's Papers - December 14, 2007 - The Olde Speonk Inn

The Olde Speonk Inn (OSI) is what the East End once was. Before every stockbroker on holiday decided to open a restaurant, eateries were owned and run by people who understood food and valued customers. It is evident that the OSI is built on a strong foundation of local, capable professionals.

The smell of steaks and grilled wild game waft from the converted 1918 roadhouse tucked away on Montauk Highway just a few miles from West Hampton. At one point in its history the building was a speakeasy. Today the OSI has become a gathering place for the whole town. The lounge and comfortable barroom give locals and passersby a safe haven among friends. The separate dining room is classic American with white tablecloths and quaint country décor. Divided by partitions, each table is afforded a certain amount of privacy. Attentive staff cater to all your whims, but still let you feel like you're part of the family.

Chef Steve Brower along with Sous Chef Paul Chonoma formulate daily menus of Classic American dining with strong local produce & farm fresh meats & cheeses. Their devotion to food is evident in each course. As a starter we tasted the Chef's mother's recipe for seafood casserole. Scallops, clams, cream and cheese baked together and topped with a light breadcrumb. His mother should be proud. Other notable appetizers included a baked brie encroute with smoked bacon & apple relish. Vermont Cavendish Quail, buttermilk fried and drizzled with white truffle honey. Roasted Calamari with Harissa Aioli is a house specialty and favorite of the staff.

Salads range from classic caesar with anchovies to roasted beets with mascarpone, sliced almonds and sherry vinaigrette. The star of this course is the freshness of the ingredients - the greens snap and grape tomatoes pop in your mouth.

As a special indulgence we were treated to an extra course between the salad and the entrée. The Chef truly scored amongst my table when seared fois-gras and sea scallops arrived with cranberry compote and acorn squash puree with bacon crumbles. If you haven't had the sinful pleasure of letting fois-gras melt in your mouth you need to put it on your list of things to do before you kick the bucket.

The flow of the meal was well planned. Servers and busboys kept water glasses full and bread baskets flowing. Shined silverware arrived on cue between each course. At no point did we ever feel rushed or as if we were waiting for anything.

Over a nice glass of pinot noir a lively discussion began about old celebrities that stayed at the Inn. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were mentioned and a strange rumor that Academy award winner Rod Steiger was born there in 1925. Today celebrity spotting can be left to the east of this very unpretentious spot.

The main courses at the OSI are formidable. Roasted ducks and chickens, venison Sheppard's pie, thick cut pork chops and steaks that completely cover the plate. Seafood doesn't take a back seat here either. Crusted swordfish with beurre blanc and local pan roasted striped bass are not to be dismissed as summer food. We indulged in a grilled NY strip steak topped with caramelized onions and truffle oil. The flavors bounced off the plate. A roasted half Long Island Duck was prepared two ways - seared breast and confit of leg and thigh. A port wine demi glaze added to the decadence of this dish.

Cappuccino's and espresso's accompanied chocolate mousse and pistachio pecan pie to our table and brought this wonderful night to an end.With food, service and ambiance like this it becomes very easy to release the Hampton's swagger and remember times when eating out was not a show but an event and celebration. The more I think about our experience at the Olde Speonk Inn, the more I believe that this little Inn from the past is the future of dining on the East End, a place where people care about your experience.

The Olde Speonk Inn is worth the trip from the east or from the west. This time of year is their season, so make reservations. Dinner is served six nights from five p.m., closed Tuesday. There is a Prix Fixe menu offered Monday-Thursday for $28.95 and from 5-7 p.m. on Fridays. If you are coming by car the Olde Speonk Inn is located at 190 on the north side of Montauk Highway between old Montauk Highway and Nidzyn Avenue.