Dan's Papers - December 14, 2007 -

Fifteen years ago, shortly after moving here from England, I discovered the delights of spending a day in the sun on the ocean beaches at Montauk, followed by a wonderful meal of fresh fish at a very atmospheric simple roadside restaurant in Amagansett that has been serving great food to hungry families since the 1960s and is known to everyone simply as 'Lunch,' presumably from the large sign above it.

The correct name of the restaurant is 'Lobster Roll' and Fred Terry Senior, a descendant of the Terry family who came here from England back in the 1600s, now owns the restaurant with other members of his family. He is officially credited with inventing the first commercial lobster roll, a dish now found on menus wherever lobsters are plentiful. In 1999, the family opened a second restaurant in Terry's hometown of Baiting Hollow on Sound Avenue on the outskirts of Riverhead.

Many wondered whether the very special nature of the original restaurant could be replicated. But a recent visit on a Saturday found us at a place filled with happy sounding diners, confirming that, even in the depths of winter, when the Montauk restaurant is closed until the warm sun reappears in the spring, you can still enjoy their excellent food. The restaurant is appropriately country in design and décor, and the sea still seems never far away

The menu is extensive, very fish oriented as you would expect, but also with a good choice for those who prefer meat or vegetarian fare.

We started our lunch with some PEI mussels in a herbed white wine sauce whose flavors prepared us for one of the day's specials, artichoke hearts stuffed with their special crab stuffing. We asked for a half portion to taste and immediately regretted this error when they arrived sizzling on a platter and our first taste told us that this was a very special appetizer and one that you should really get. The blend of textures and tastes were superb and the juices were exceptionally flavorful.

We have always loved the soups at 'Lunch' and were not disappointed. The Manhattan clam chowder brought the salty tang of the ocean with great broth and tasty vegetables. The lobster bisque was superb with its silky, foamy, non-cloying but intense tastes. Another winner.

For our main course, Stella selected the lobster salad platter and thoroughly enjoyed its blend of delicate lobster meat served over crisp salad greens. For me I did what I always do at 'Lunch', I ordered their 'Fish and Chips'. In the UK, every town and village boasted its fish and chip shop and this was an integral part of my growing up. Since then I have eaten it all round the world including in Dublin, Portland Oregon and Sydney. 'Lunch,' with its special tempura coated Atlantic cod has always matched the best and here at their Northside restaurant this also stood up to that comparison. The batter was super crisp and tasty and the fish impeccably fresh. This is one of those apparently simple dishes that really needs great attention to ingredients, technique and cooking temperature to prepare it correctly. Full marks to the chefs here for producing such a satisfying result.

From observing the people around us, everyone looked very contented with their own choices of food. This is a restaurant that is ultra child friendly with a very good children's menu.

The portions here are generous, so many will find they have no space left for desserts, but if you must have your portion of sweetness, there is a very good choice of chocolate based dishes or excellent Briermere fruit pies to satisfy that need.

Appetizers range from $8.95 to $13.95. Main courses are from $17.95 to $27.95. There is a good selection of local and international wines and beers.

Lobster Roll Northside carries on the enviable tradition built up over the years by its senior partner in Amagansett and this location produces food that offers some of the freshest fish you will find, cooked to perfection and served by enthusiastic professional wait staff such as Loretta who looked after us so well at a very busy time. Come here on your own or with the family and relax and enjoy yourselves - it really doesn't get much better!