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 Issue #38, December 14th, 2006

Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

The word Hanukkah, in Hebrew, means dedication. And indeed the holiday, also referred to as the Festival of Lights, which takes place on December 15, this year commemorates the secular festival of Hanukkah to celebrate the re-dedication of the Temple. Forced to abandon their faith in the time of the Hellenic period, Juda Macabee and his brothers led the Jewish people in a revolt, which lasted for three years and was ultimately successful. After their military victory, the Macabees entered the temple and found it defiled and desecrated with only enough oil to burn for one day. Miraculously, the oil burned for 8 days giving the Macabees time to repair. No doubt the oil used for the lamps was oil from the olive tree. Burned in earthenware lamps, olive oil provided the most convenient source of light. Through the ages, lighting the Menorah (candelabrum) symbolized the courage of the people and the miracle of light performed at the temple.

While Hanukkah is considered a minor holiday with few religious rituals other than lighting the Menorah for eight consecutive days, it is also associated with the subject of oil. Typically potato pancakes – latkes – are prepared during the eight day period and it would be difficult to imagine Hanukkah without them. Yet it isn’t about the potatoes, it is about the oil. Nevertheless, all types of fritters may be prepared for Hanukkah.

For a take on the traditional pancakes, combine a mixture of carrots, sweet potato and yellow bell peppers for a delicious vegetable pancake with a sweet edge to them. One of my favorite dishes is a creamy mash of potatoes and celery root. The combination works for the latkes as well. Happy Hanukkah!

POTATO AND CELERY ROOT LATKES

Potatoes and celery root are a terrific combination when mashed together. So I thought, “why not for latkes?”

Yield: 10 pancakes

  • 2 large russet potatoes
  • 1 large celery root
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1/4 cup matzo meal or flour
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
  • Canola or vegetable oil for frying
  • Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Peel the potatoes and the celery root. Fit the work bowl of a food processor with the shredding blade. Place the potatoes and celery root individually in the tubecover opening and process to shred.

2. Beat the eggs in a large bowl and whisk in the matzo meal, water and seasonings to taste. Add the scallions and the contents of the processor work bowl. Turn the mixture with a large spoon to coat evenly.

3. Add oil to a depth of 1/4-inch in a large heavy skillet (I use a 12-inch calphalon or cast iron skillet for even heat distribution). Oil should be about 365 degrees or until the surface of the oil just barely waves. Never allow the oil to bubble! With a large oval spoon, drop vegetable mixture into the hot oil and flatten lightly with the back of the spoon. Cook about 3 minutes on one side until golden then carefully turn and cook about 2 – 2 1/2 minutes on the other side. Transfer to a paper towel lined cookie sheet to drain as they are done. The latkes can be prepared ahead and kept warm in a 200 degree oven.

SWEET POTATO, CARROT AND YELLOW PEPPER LATKES

The food processor makes easy work on this twist of the traditional potato pancake.

Yield: 10-12 pancakes

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 yellow pepper, trimmed, deseeded and diced
  • 2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
  • 2-3 carrots, scraped
  • 1 large sweet potato, peeled
  • 3 eggs, beaten
  • 1/3 cup matzoh meal
  • 1/3 cup water
  • Coarse (kosher) salt to taste
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • Canola or vegetable oil for frying

1. Warm oil in a non-stick skillet and saute yellow peppers with scallions, until pepper is tender. Transfer to a side dish.

2. Place shredding blade in work bowl of a food processor. Cut carrots in lengths to fit the tube in the cover of the processor and process to shred. Cut potato in lengths and process as above. Transfer mixture to a large bowl. Add beaten eggs, matzoh meal, water and salt and pepper to taste. Add yellow pepper and scallions and stir to mix.

3. Add oil to a depth of 1/4-inch in a large heavy skillet (I use a 12-inch calphalon or cast iron skillet for even heat distribution.) Oil should be about 365 degrees or until the surface of the oil barely waves. Never allow the oil to come to a surface bubble. With a large oval spoon, drop vegetable mixture into the hot oil and flatten lightly with the back of a spoon. Cook for 2 minutes on each side until golden brown. Transfer to a paper towel lined cookie sheet to drain as they are done. Latkes may be prepare ahead and kept warm in a 200-degree oven.

 


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