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 Issue #38, December 14th, 2006

The Garden At Rock Cottage

Reshaping Spring

I used to think of gardening as a spring-to-fall activity – I now recognize, especially as I am aging, that good gardening takes all year to accomplish.

Now that the weather is dropping below 40 degrees, it is time to reshape the garden for spring. Like weight-loss in people, winter pruning makes plants in a garden lighter and more energetic. It also sparks new growth in spring and enhances your garden’s appearance. When done correctly and to the right plants, pruning invigorates them, removes dead wood and weight, improves air circulation, and encourages more flower growth and leaf density.

I am not suggesting that you “hack away” at plants all winter. Rather, I suggest well-planned, careful pruning as a good winter task. There are far too many examples of poorly pruned, globular mounds in gardens. Well-pruned plants appear as if they have been untouched, but are so much more contained and aesthetically appealing than plants that have been left to shape themselves.

Be careful – winter pruning is not good for all plants. Focus your winter pruning on plants that lose their leaves (deciduous) or bloom on new growth. Plants like Nikko Blue hydrangeas, rhododendrons, azaleas, and some spring-flowering trees and shrubs are best left untouched until after they bloom. (Most spring-flowering plants increase their flowering if pruned following flowering.) Similarly, evergreens grow best when pruned in the spring.

Pruning ought to remove internal clutter. Look for plants that have visible dead branches, and for those that have many internal or rubbing branches. You can also identify trees that have outgrown their space or need reshaping. Except for formal hedges, most plants look best when they seem untouched and natural. There are two types of pruning cuts used to shorten branches and stimulate new growth: nonselective and selective. Nonselective pruning is best for formal hedges, as it creates rapid, bushy growth just below the cuts. Selective pruning reduces plant size without altering shape. To prune selectively, cut stems and branches above lateral buds that face the direction you wish new growth to occur. Varying the cuts from long to short will maintain a natural look.

As a rule of thumb, do not prune more than a third of a plant’s total growth in any one year. For plants that have been neglected this suggests a “multi-year” strategy. Start at the top of a tree or shrub, always using care about cutting bottom branches, as they sometimes are slow to re-grow. Pruning about a quarter-inch above a bud induces new growth. (Cutting to far above a bud actually reduces growth and may impede healing.) Begin by removing suckers that are growing from tree bases or roots. Also, remove internal shoots along large branches, as internal shoots drain plant vigor and ought to be cut back to the originating branch, leaving just a slight bit of wood about the cut, to allow the branch to heal easily. This will increase light penetration and air circulation. Outward-facing growth is the most desirable, and it will maintain the internal air circulation of the plant. Using angled cuts will also allow water to run off the branches. When pruning, never cut branches flush with a trunk. Leave a small piece attached so that the branch “collar,” a bulge extending from the trunk, is protected. Cut underneath a branch first, then cut down to ensure the bark does not tear. In time, the collar will heal and form a callus. Using this approach, vary sizes, shapes, and depths of plants to achieve a collage effect. The textures ought to blend, even without leaves.

This year at Rock Cottage, once the freeze sets in, I will trim our overgrown dogwood tree. Dogwoods are bleeders, e.g., they ooze sap when cut, and cutting back branches during winter is an easy way to avoid this problem. The goal will be to remove density and reshape the tree for a more appealing, less straggly effect. This process will create internal openess in the tree, thereby reducing moisture that could harbor rot. It will also remove crossing or rubbing branches that potentially can create an environment for disease. Winter pruning is a great activity for gardeners who seem to twiddle their thumbs at this time of year. Pruning now will help create a wonderful design for spring and also invigorate your garden’s health. It is also a great way to focus your efforts, so that there will be fewer tasks to accomplish next spring.

You can contact Lance Brilliantine with any questions or comments at GardenLance@yahoo.com.

 

 


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