| Issue #37, December 7, 2007 |
The Garden At Rock Cottage by Lance Brilliantine
At this time of year, people in Latin America adorn their houses with a plant called Noche Buena (night beauty). We traditionally call it poinsettia. These lovely plants are indigenous to Mexico, and December conditions promote the beautiful, red, white, pink or variegated leaves.
The Noche Buena is only one of many plants that use a phytochrome system to sense daylight and have a specific photoperiod for blooming. Short-day plants, as they are called, are actually long-night plants, because they are sensitive to the amount of darkness they experience.
Many common plants are light-responsive. Examples are flowers that bloom in spring such as tulips and daffodils, summer-blooming plants such as the morning glory, plants blooming in the fall such as mums and asters, and those that bloom in winter such as the Christmas cactus.
Because of their bloom time, poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are one of the most popular holiday flowers. Of course, one question commonly voiced after Christmas is how can I care for my poinsettia so that it will bloom again next Christmas?
While this process is automatic in Mexico, where poinsettias can reach heights of 40 feet, it's a very fussy, exacting process for northern gardeners. Since the plants are not expensive, it is probably best to start fresh each year. For those undaunted by this thought, the process of getting a poinsettia to re-bloom is outlined below.
When a poinsettia is brought home, it needs to be placed in a sunny window. Poinsettias are tropicals and appreciate direct sunlight. To keep the poinsettia in bloom as long as possible, a temperature of 65-75 degrees F during the day is best. Night temperatures of 55-60 degrees F simulate the natural growing environment. Cold drafts and allowing leaves to touch a cold window will injure the leaves and cause premature leaf drop.
The plant needs to be kept moist not wet, and watered whenever the surface feels dry to the touch. Water adequately so water drains from the pot's bottom, but never let the plant sit in water. Lack of water also causes leaf drop. In dry home conditions, the plant may need to be watered ever other day or so.
Keep the plant watered whenever the surface is dry until about the end of March. At that point, gradually decrease the water to allow the plant to dry between waterings. Stems should not shrivel during this time, which signals too little water. After the plant has acclimated to this drying process (a couple of weeks), move it to a cool spot in a basement or heated garage where temperatures will be 55-60 degrees F. Let the plant rest until mid-May, keeping the plant intermittently moist/dry.
Beginning in mid-May, the stems can be cut back to four inches above the soil and the plant repotted in a slightly larger container with new soil. Water it well. Place the newly potted plant back in a sunny window and again keep it at about 65-75 degrees F. Continue watering whenever the surface of the soil feels dry.
Watch for new growth, and once it appears begin fertilizing every two weeks with an all-purpose fertilizer. In June, move the plant outside to a partially shaded location and maintain the watering/fertilizing process.
In July, stems should be pinched back to an inch to encourage new growth and a well-branched plant. (Not pinching produces a tall, straggly result.)
In mid-August, the stems should have branched and leafed out, and need to be pinched back again, leaving 3-4 leaves on each shoot. At this point, the plant should be brought back indoors to a sunny window, where watering and fertilizing continue.
If the plant is kept at the required 65-75 degrees F, in October the plant needs to be cycled through its short-day period. About 10 weeks of days with 12 hours or less of sunlight is required. This requirement is mandatory, or the plant will not re-bloom.
Beginning October 1, the plant should be kept in complete darkness from 5 to 8 a.m. Any exposure to light will delay blooming. A box or materials to block out light can be used. The plant can also be placed in a tightly sealed closet. During the day, move the plant back to the sunny window. Continue watering and fertilizing.
Around the last week of November, the darkness treatment can be stopped and the plant allowed to remain in sunlight. Flower buds should be evident at this point, and the plant will re-bloom by Christmas.
You can contact Lance Brilliantine with any questions or comments at GardenLance@yahoo.com.
Back to Contents
|