| Issue #35 - November 21, 2008 |
Simple Art of Cooking
To Brine or Not to Brine
by Silvia Lehrer
In the dining section of The New York Times on Wednesday, November 12, Harold McGee, a renowned authority on the chemistry of food, writes whether to brine or not to brine, a turkey. While McGee agrees that brining gives moisture to chicken or turkey he gave complex reasons with chemical explanations as to why the meat might become even drier. As we know, turkey is a dry meat.
A brine solution is a basic mixture of water, salt and sugar to balance the saltiness, and could include citrus, spices and herbs to add flavor. I believe that brining does provide a moist bird. A caveat however - how much room do you have in your refrigerator for the brined turkey's required overnight stay in a large container? Frequent basting of the bird during roasting can help add moisture, and, to ensure a crisp skin, slide your hand between the skin and the flesh, season, and leave overnight in the fridge on a rack, uncovered. Happy Turkey Day!
TO BRINE THE TURKEY
Start with a fresh or completely thawed bird, if frozen. Salt and water are a must for soaking the turkey. Add herbs to enhance flavor. Can adapt the recipe to your preference.
Brine for a 12-14 pound turkey
2 gallons water
2 cups coarse (kosher) salt
1 cup sugar
Fresh sprigs of parsley, thyme, rosemary and sage
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 cinnamon stick
2 large bay leaves
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon whole allspice
Juice of 1 large lemon
1. Place two gallons of water in a large stockpot, plastic tub or cooler large enough to hold the turkey. Bring to the boil over high heat. Remove from heat and add the remaining ingredients. Stir to mix and let cool completely.
2. Put the turkey in the brine. It should be completely submerged or breast side down in a tub. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.
3. Lift the turkey from the tub and discard the brine. Rinse the turkey under cold running water then dry very well with paper towels. Season the turkey as desired and let it come to room temperature before roasting. Follow the recipe of your choice for cooking the turkey.
ROAST TURKEY WITH ROSEMARY,
SAGE AND THYME
Infuse the bird under the skin with a savory blend of herbs and baste with the zesty broth.
Serves 10-12
18-20 pound farm-raised turkey
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon each fresh minced rosemary, sage and thyme
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup fresh or frozen orange juice
1 cup chicken or turkey broth
1/2 cup Grand Marnier or Triple Sec
1. Remove packet of giblets that is inside the turkey, rinse inside and out with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Slide your hand between the skin and flesh of the bird, being careful not to tear the skin, and season with salt and pepper rubbed over the skin and in the cavity. Tuck wing tips back. Mix herbs with lemon juice and olive oil and spread under and over the turkey skin. For a crisp skin, refrigerate turkey uncovered up to 24 hours.
2. Next day, bring turkey to room temperature about one hour before roasting, set oven rack at lower third. Meanwhile, combine juice, stock and liqueur and set liquid aside to baste turkey while roasting.
3. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place turkey breast side up on a rack in a shallow roasting pan. Immediately reduce oven heat to 325 degrees and roast for 12 minutes to the pound. Baste turkey every 30 minutes or so until the bird is golden brown or until an instant meat thermometer registers 160 degrees in the breast. Remove from oven, transfer turkey to a cutting board and allow it to rest about 20 minutes before carving. Cover breast meat with a tent of foil to keep warm. The bird will continue to cook while resting. If juices run pink in the leg and thigh, carve off the parts and return to pan juices in roasting pan. Simmer legs and thighs for a few minutes longer to bring up to temperature or about 165 degrees. Pan juices can be strained and reheated to pour over the turkey after carving.
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