Dan's Papers - November 23, 2007 - Hampton Tradition XIV

In 1969, a noted cabaret piano player named Bobby Van brought his bride out to Bridgehampton from New York City and founded Bobby Van's restaurant. At that time it was located where World Pie is today. On hot summer nights, the tradition was that writers such as Truman Capote and Irwin Shaw sipped beverages while Bobby played the piano until no one was left standing. In 1979, the landlord renovated the building across the street where Bobby Van's is currently located in Bridgehampton, and Bobby moved the restaurant there. Even back then it was a meeting place for locals and those who just got off the bus or train from New York City and wanted a cold drink and something to eat. Thus another tradition was born - meeting at Bobby Van's after the commute from the city to start the weekend.

According to Joe Phair, a partner in the current Bobby Van's empire - with four Bobby Van's in the city and another in Washington D.C. - when they purchased the establishment in 1994 the goal was to keep the tradition, but upgrade the food to the highest level. The plan was to consistently have the best Porterhouse available nightly. In fact, Phair mentioned how proud he is to be able to serve what he believes are the best steaks this side of Peter Lugar's. He credits his son James for keeping a well-trained set of eyes on all purchases.

As always, the names of the many celebrities who have dined at the fine establishment are omitted to protect their privacy, but the list of those who regularly visit Bobby Van's is amazing. When Mario Puzo was pumping out screenplays for the various Godfather films he often dined at Bobby Van's. But Phair stressed that everyone who dines at Bobby Van's is treated with great respect and receives the highest level of service, competence and, of course, a world-class meal.

Then came the idea to open up the front of the restaurant so that it drew in the ambiance of summer, but propelled laughter and sounds of people having the best of time out into the town. It was a home run. When one drives by Bobby Van's in the evening, the scent of great steak permeates the air.

The bar is still a meeting place for regulars and celebrities. Behind the bar is a trio of young men who are friendly, thorough and knowledgeable of the responsibilities of a world-class saloon. Gerald Phair, who, besides being Joe Phair's son, loves vintage convertible muscle cars and leads the trio that includes Jimmy "Red" Colbert and Mike Egan. The boys know their wines, pour a true tap beer and mix strong drinks. Women are always welcome, but Bobby Van's has the feel of a world-class golf club grille room. Sometimes at the bar will be a woman in riding attire, along with someone right off the golf course, talking to a pair that just finished a tennis game, along with a crew that just got off the Jitney. Bobby Van's truly collects active people from all walks of life.

During the U.S. Open held at Shinnecock a few years back, it seemed like two thirds of the professional golf tour was eating porterhouse steaks at Bobby Van's each night.

Open seven days a week all year round for lunch and dinner, with the kitchen open at 11:30 a.m. and closing at 10 p.m. on weekdays and 11 p.m. on weekends, you can always find a seat and a friend at Bobby Van's. The sounds of Bobby Van's famous piano playing can still be heard on the restaurant's website www.bobbyvans.com.

The big screen televisions at both ends of the original bar are great for watching sporting events. Jack Whitaker, who still plays a role in the telecast of the Kentucky Derby, was a Bobby Van's regular until he moved out of Bridgehampton. His youngest son Jeff was a beloved bartender there.

So for the traditions of a great bar to gather at, a great restaurant for a traditional steak dinner, or a place to hang out and meet other people, visit Bobby Van's. Joe Phair will most likely be there to welcome you.