Dan's Papers -November 6, 2009 - Simple Art of Cooking

The first Monday of November officially opens the scallop season which allowed our own Peconic Bay scallops to return on November 2. We've been lucky to enjoy these smaller-than-a-penny scallops for several seasons now and will continue to enjoy them through this season which should last until March, according to local fishermen.

There are 400 species of this bivalve mollusk found throughout the world but only a handful enters the commercial market. Of the five eastern species that come into our markets, the bay scallop is of prime importance to the scallop aficionado. Of the varied species along the Eastern seaboard, including the familiar calico from Florida, it has been documented that none can compare to the Peconic Bay scallop. Because of their pent up demand, this occasionally scarce delicacy is relatively expensive.

Our local bay scallop, harvested from clean waters, is sensational raw, making it the perfect choice to make ceviche. When making ceviche with bay scallops, the fish is "cooked" by the citric acids and heightened in flavor with a dash of cayenne and fresh basil. Bay scallops are my choice to use with a quick sauté of carrots, leek and sweet yellow pepper julienne, deglazed with honey and thyme. The colorful dish makes it perfect for a delectable light lunch or supper.

BAY SCALLOP SEVICHE WITH BASIL

There are versions of seviche all over Latin America where numerous fish are used for this migrant dish. Our own Peconic bay scallops are in season and that is cause for celebration.

Serves 4-6 as an appetizer

1 pound bay scallops, tendon removed

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 red bell pepper, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 small red onion, sliced paper thin

3/4 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt

10-12 large basil leaves cut into julienne

Extra basil leaves for garnish

1. Rinse scallops and pat dry with paper towel. Put into a bowl with the lemon and lime juice. Cover and refrigerate for 4-6 hours.

2. Peel red pepper with vegetable peeler, core and remove seeds; rinse and pat dry. Cut pepper into strips then into 1/2-inch dice. Put thinly sliced onions in a bowl of cold water and let soak for 20 minutes. Drain and pat dry in a clean kitchen towel. Place in a mixing bowl with the peppers.

3. When scallops are "cooked" and flesh is opaque, drain excess liquid and add to the onions and peppers. Season with cayenne, salt and basil, and stir to mix with the scallops.

4. Transfer to a serving bowl. Ceviche may be completed up to several hours ahead. Refrigerate as necessary; bring to room temperature before serving. Serve with basil garnish.

BAY SCALLOPS WITH HONEY AND THYME

A colorful julienne of vegetables serves as backdrop for this savory bay scallop treat.

2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil

1-2 carrots, scraped, trimmed and cut into julienne

1 leek, trimmed, washed very well and cut into julienne

1 yellow pepper, ribbed, deseeded and cut into julienne

Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound Bay scallops, tendon removed

2 tablespoons local honey

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

1/2 cup vegetable, fish or chicken stock

Warm 6 luncheon or salad-size plates in a 200-degree oven.

1. Heat oil in a large 12-inch skillet and saute the vegetables for 5-6 minutes until they have a slight crunch. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide evenly on the warm plates.

2. Melt butter in the same skillet until the butter browns slightly. Be careful not to burn the butter. Add the scallops and saute over medium-high heat for 1 1/2 minutes total, turning once. Season with salt and pepper to taste. With a slotted spoon transfer the scallops over the vegetables.

3. Add honey and thyme to the pan and stir to deglaze pan juices. Add stock, salt and freshly ground pepper, bring to a boil and stir to mix. Reduce liquid by one-third. Drizzle sauce over the scallops and serve at once.