Dan's Papers - October 30, 2009 - Simple Art of Cooking

Brian Halweil, editor of the impressive magazine, Edible East End, a magazine that touches on local personalities working with all manner of local food, gave a significant speech recently on the political effects of eating locally. I quote Halweil who said, "Because the closer we are to where our food is raised, the more control we have over how it is raised, over how our neighbors are making a living, over how our landscape is used." "Eating local ends up being an act of conservation, he continued. It's also a way to conserve the diversity of food. We eat to survive, we also have to eat local to be sure that this place survives."

Indeed here on the East End of Long Island, our vast farming community, the seas that surround us and our local artisans have created an amazing diversity of cheese, honey, mushrooms, preserves and more good things to eat.

Yes, many of our farm stands will be closing soon so enjoy the fruits of the field to prepare dishes that you can benefit from through the winter months. Tomato sauces made with sauce tomatoes from farm stands, vegetable soups and vegetables baked into casseroles can be frozen and local poultry, eggs and seafood are available through the year. People need to be persuaded to change their behavior about something as intimate as food - and learn how to cook!

Both vegetables are from the cabbage family and are often confused. Rutabagas are larger than turnips and are distinguished by an 'ochre-colored swollen neck. The turnip has little or no neck. When farm fresh and cooked with care these vegetables can be surprisingly palatable.

1 1/2 pounds turnips or rutabaga, trimmed

Coarse (kosher) salt

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, sliced

1 tablespoon Turbinado sugar (sugar in the raw)

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

Freshly ground pepper

1. Scrub turnips clean under running water or if using rutabaga, peel them. Cut turnips or rutabaga into 1/2-inch sliced then cut turnips into 1/2-inch wedges. If using rutabaga cut half the size of the turnips. Place vegetable in a pot of cold water to cover and bring to the boil over high heat. Add salt to taste, and cook at a brisk simmer with cover ajar, until tender, about 15 to 18 minutes. Test for doneness with the tip of a paring knife. Drain.

2. Place the vegetable in a food processor fitted with steel knife and process to a coarse puree. Add butter, sugar, thyme leaves, cream, salt to taste and freshly ground pepper. Process ingredients to a fine puree, pushing down sides with a rubber spatula as necessary. Taste to adjust seasoning. The puree can be prepared ahead to this point. Keep warm in a water bath, stirring occasionally, until ready to serve or microwave for 11/2 - 2 minutes.

This timely recipe is a reminder that cauliflower can be a luxurious vegetable when paired with the last of seasonal tomatoes and garden fresh basil.

1 medium farm-fresh cauliflower, about 1 1/2 - 2 pounds

Coarse (kosher) salt for the cooking water

Freshly ground pepper

5 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons chiffonade of fresh basil

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons plain bread crumbs

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small dice

1. Cut off the base of the cauliflower and remove leaves. Pull the florets away from the core and soak in a bowl of cold water for 20 minutes. Drain.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add one to two tablespoons of coarse salt to taste and add the florets. Bring back to the boil and cook at a brisk simmer for 6-7 minutes; then drain and refresh under cool water. Drain well and pat dry to absorb as much of the moisture as possible.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

3. Arrange florets in a buttered baking dish. In a bowl, mix the tomatoes, basil, salt and pepper to taste and spoon over the cauliflower. Pour over olive oil to and toss to coat. Mix the cheese and breadcrumbs and sprinkle evenly over the mixture. Can be prepared ahead to this point and refrigerated covered for several hours or overnight. When ready to bake, bring to room temperature if refrigerated, dot with butter and bake in preheated oven for 25 minutes until hot and bubbly. Serve at once. Recipe may be frozen for up to a month.