Dan's Papers - October 30, 2009 - Restaurant Review: The Blue Parrot, East Hampton

What kind of a person would go to a Mexican restaurant and order a grilled organic Cornish hen marinated with lime and tequila?

The same kind of person who would then be extremely happy and self satisfied.

The Blue Parrot in East Hampton, which, two years ago, went the way of the canary in the coal mine, was given new life last summer by a brand new team of investors/owners - namely Ron Perelman, Jon Bon Jovi and Renee Zellweger. Last summer, the place was crazy - sometimes you couldn't even get into the bar.

So it was wonderful to go to the Blue Parrot for an early (5:30) dinner on a Saturday night.

The interior of the Parrot has been cleaned up. Banquettes with new moss green cushions have been added to the back dining room, which is decorated with vintage posters of films like Viva Zapata and Tristessa. The place feels warm and happy, very un-Hampton. Not only could I imagine it to be a perfect extension of the beach where you could slap in on flip flops, but on that chilly fall night, it was a real mood changer just to walk into the place, with its bright colors, fanciful décor (like strings of cowboy boot and cactus lights, and painted ukeleles) and upbeat music.

Appetizer selections include the expected guacamoles (classic and the more spicy chipotle) for $12, as well as steamed mussels, nachos (both $12), and taquitos (three for $14). We tried the classic guacamole which was very mild, with a very little hint of much else but avocados. That day, the avocados used in the guac weren't the ripest, creating more of a juicy result than a smooth mush. The restaurant offers quesadillas ($14-17) and burritos ($14-16), as well as a variety of salads at $11-14) but we opted for the entrees: Enter, the Cornish hen ($25).

I don't know how Mexican this is, beyond the lime/tequila marinade, but it was just delicious. The bird came butterflied and largely de-boned. The meat was moist and flavorful, the skin crispy and pleasantly salty, the sauce was rich and well balanced. On top was a small pile of pickled onions, just the thing to add tang. Sides of lightly seasoned rice and mild black beans made it a very nice dish.

We also tried the Shrimp Albahaca Pipian ($24), which was shrimp hidden beneath a goodly amount of pesto sauce. How was it Mexican? The pesto was made with pumpkin seeds rather than pignolas. This was served with very good sautéed spinach with garlic, and white rice.

Other entrees range in price from $17 for meatballs and $19 for Chile Relleno, to our entrees which were at the highest price point.

Blue Parrot had a good kids menu. The young diner at the table tried the burger, which was a completely respectable, substantial Black Angus beef burger served on a toasted Kaiser roll with fries. The burger is $13 on the dinner menu, $12 on the bar menu.

Desserts, all $8, include a chocolate mousse cake, ice cream or sorbet, and a Cinnamon Corn Flan which was delicious. The custard had just a mild scent of cinnamon, and was served with four concord grapes and fresh mint. We also tried a special dessert, Chihuahua cheese cake made with Chihuahua cheese. A "good" cheesecake is a very personal judgment. This had some pleasant grit, more in the style of those delectable, well-textured Italian ricotta cheesecakes than the all-cream-cheese concoctions more popular in this neck of the woods. The mildly sweet cheesecake was served on a plate of tart strawberry puree, and topped with a layer of caramel sauce. I'd order it again.

You can't talk about Mexican restaurants, especially the Blue Parrot, with talking about Margaritas. The house special "Dirty Bird" at $9, was fresh and tasty without being mouth puckering - and this, we were told, is the most tart of the three margies they offer. There's a small but good selection of wines by the glass, priced from $8 to $13; an equally small list of wines by the bottle, from $35 for an Argentinian "Don David" to a $575 bottle of Colgin Cellars Tychan Hill Vineyard Cabernet. It's all about tequilas here - from $11 for a shot of Chinaco Silver and Milagro Silver to $45 for H. Seleccion Suprema.

Blue Parrot has lots of special menus: A lunch menu with the expected Mexican offerings as well as tortas with tuna, meatballs, or grilled chicken; a bar/late night menu at reasonable prices; and special nights like Dirty Bird Tuesdays, two for one Wednesdays and Karaoke Thursdays.

Blue Parrot: 33 Main Street, East Hampton, 329-2583. Lunch daily, 11:30-3:30; Dinner Sun.-Thurs. 5:30 - 10:30/Fri. and Sat. 5:30-11 p.m.