| Issue #32 - October 31, 2008 |
Simple Art of Cooking
As American as Apple... Just in Time for the Election By Silvia Lehrer
Judging by the lineup of cars full of people eager to purchase the medley of homegrown apples, fresh pressed apple cider and apple cider doughnuts at the Milk Pail, the farm store in Water Mill, the fall apple harvest is in full gear. Yet due to a great U-Pick season and good summer weather, the apple supply is shorter than usual.
Inspiration for the apple delight below came from a dated Spanish cookbook on olive oil. And who doesn't love a good old-fashioned bread pudding?
APPLE DELIGHT WITH RASPBERRY JAM SAUCE
This cutting edge recipe with Spanish origins features a crisp topping of bread crumbs sautéed in extra virgin olive oil.
Serves 6-8
1/4 cup dark raisins
2 tablespoons dry Spanish sherry
2 1/2 pounds apples, Empire or Golden Delicious
1 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1-inch wide slice lemon peel
3 cups day-old coarse bread crumbs
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
For the sauce
1 cup raspberry jam
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1. Soak the raisins in sherry for 20-30 minutes. Meanwhile, peel and core the apples and cut into 1/2-inch wedges.
2. Put 1 cup water in a 3 to 3 1/2 quart saucepan large enough to hold the apples. Add 1/3 cup sugar and stir to dissolve over medium heat. Cook at a brisk simmer for 4-5 minutes. Put in the lemon peel and apples and bring to the edge of a boil. Adjust heat to medium-low and cook covered for 10-12 minutes until apples are tender, but still hold their shape. Add the raisins and carefully stir to mix. Refrigerate in a suitable container for several hours or up to one day ahead.
3. To serve, warm the olive oil in a small skillet and put in the breadcrumbs and remaining sugar. Saute about 3-4 minutes until crumbs are golden and crisp. Drain on paper towel and set aside.
4. Heat the jam with the water and lemon juice, stirring with a wooden spoon for 3-4 minutes until softened. Spoon sauce into a small serving bowl.
5. To serve, sprinkle 2/3 of the breadcrumbs on the bottom of a serving platter. Reserve several apple slices, and arrange remaining apples in an overlapping layer over the breadcrumbs and spoon over remaining crumbs. Top with remaining apples in a concentric circle for presentation. Serve at room temperature with the sauce on the side.
APPLE BREAD PUDDING WITH CARAMEL SAUCE
The rich caramel sauce adds glamour to this basic apple bread pudding.
Serves 8-10
1 cup golden or dark raisins
1/2 cup Calvados (apple liqueur)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
1 quart apple sauce
4 fresh apples, peeled, cored and sliced
About 25 slices firm white or whole wheat bread, crusts removed
For the caramel sauce
1/2 cup sugar
1 1/2 cups water
1/2 cup heavy cream
1. Soak raisins in liqueur to cover about 20-30 minutes. Set aside.
2. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a saucepan; add 1/2 cup of the sugar and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes. Add the applesauce and raisins Calvados mixture, and stir to mix.
3. Melt remaining butter and sugar in a skillet and sauté the sliced apples until tender, about 7-8 minutes. Fold in applesauce mixture.
4. Moisten the bottom of a 10" x 5" loaf pan with an even layer of the applesauce mixture. Cover the bottom with bread slices. Spoon a thin layer of apple mixture over the bread and continue making layers; alternating bread and apple mixture until the pan is filled. End with bread layer.
5. Securely cover the top bread layer with plastic wrap or foil and weight down with a heavy object, such as a filled coffee can or metal weight and refrigerate for a minimum of 12 hours or overnight.
6. To serve unmold the apple pudding on a platter and serve with caramel sauce. Can be prepared up to two days ahead. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve.
7. Caramel sauce. Combine sugar and water in a heavy saucepan and stir to dissolve. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer, and cook sugar syrup until it becomes a light caramel, about 15 minutes. (It's important to cast an eye on the contents of the pan while the sugar syrup is cooking.) Cautiously add the heavy cream (the moment the cream makes contact with the hot syrup it will splatter, so stand back), and then with a wooden spoon, stir mixture to a smooth, creamy and slightly thickened sauce. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Reheat sauce for serving, if necessary.
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