Dan's Papers - November 3, 2006 -

Maybe the savings bank exterior is a fitting shell to house the treasured gem that is Matsulin. Sadly, it is that same exterior which prevents the unobservant eye from recognizing that this unique Asian fusion restaurant exists within. What makes Matsulin special, setting it apart from other restaurants in the area, is its varied pan-Asian menu as well as attention to authentic flavors and tastes.

In a single meal, my friend Victoria and I shared dishes from Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Japan, and China. And this isn't your typical "Asian" food either. This isn't Moo Shu beef and pork Lo Mein, but classical platters tailored toward authenticity. It is in this standard that we found a truly delightful meal.

We sampled as much as we could. From the appetizer menu there was beef satay, Martini shrimp, crispy calamari, coconut shrimp, and roti canai. Everything came with its own dipping sauce. The peanut sauce for the satay had enough flavor that I would have been content eating it all night. The roti canai is a flat bread served with a light coconut curry sauce. Kicking up the heat was the Martini shrimp with a spicy yet sweet sauce and the coconut shrimp and its pimento sauce were an absolute pleasure to eat.

A special that evening was a steamed sea bass served whole in a Teachen sauce. The sauce actually derives from the Teachen area of China, where the parents of Kay and Vivian Lin of Matsulin originate. (In fact, almost all of the dishes are based on family recipes, which go back for generations.) The steaming process allowed much of the complementary flavored broth to be infused into the light, white fish. The vegetables, including tomato, coriander, and fennel, brought complex layers to the dish, without knocking the flavor out of balance. A completely different set of flavors was found in the lemongrass Tom-Yum. This Thai soup featured a little bit of curry spice, rich broth, mushrooms, celery, delightful coriander, and shrimp. If you like lemongrass, or have never tried it, this is the soup for you.

Of course, if you are going to sample Asian fusion at its best, sushi is a must. Kay had the chef prepare the sushi sampler and the Viper Roll (a specialty roll) so we could gain a grasp of the sushi chef's breadth as an artist. The fish was fresh and its textures and consistency were great. The presentation was equally striking.

The main courses, of which we sampled several, were all distinct unto themselves. The Ayam Mangga comprised of sliced chicken, mango, red peppers and mint, in a sweet and tangy sauce, served in two halves of hollowed mango. If you're into mango, it's a fun dish that is great for sharing. Actually, all the dishes are great for sharing, even though I really wanted to keep the King Rama Beef to myself - thin strips of beef cooked with baby green beans, in a great, sweet sauce with hints of allspice and anise. Following that, we were offered a unique dish, which sounds unappetizing by its description and, in fact, is claimed to be an acquired taste. I guess I acquired it, because I really enjoyed the Sambal Shrimp. These large, perfectly cooked shrimp are served mixed with baby asparagus in a fermented sauce. Like I said, the word "fermented" gives it a bad wrap, but I would have no problem introducing the dish to friends next time, and there will be a next time, I dine there. I'll be honest, the final dish, Ginger Tea Duck, was my favorite. First, the duck is marinated in tea and ginger juice, then it is fried until crispy and served with a thickened, flavored version of the marinade. The crispy skin, tender duck meat, and the ginger tea sauce make for such a combination that I really did want more.

For dessert (I know, how could we possibly eat dessert after all that?) Victoria and I shared a tempura-fried banana with vanilla ice cream. Once again, the textures and layers of flavor made for a wonderful ending to our journey into the realm of fine Asian dining.

The only thing that made us happier was that we found Matsulin also served very reasonable lunch specials. Definitely worth a fieldtrip one day in the future.

Matsulin is open Tues.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; and Sun. from noon to 10 p.m., but closed on Monday.