Dan's Papers - October 26, 2007

Owned and operated by Delaney Oser and her husband Myles Romanow, Wild Thyme Restaurant and Bar, located on Noyac Road in Southampton, is hip, down to earth and classy all at once. The building is inviting and glows from the inside, welcoming patrons in from the brisk fall weather. Last Monday night, I headed over to Wild Thyme Restaurant and Bar with two friends to experience the fine cuisine we've been hearing about.

Upon arrival, we immediately noticed the beautiful bar and large dining room set to the right, which is undeniably the perfect layout for an aperitif followed by an intimate dinner. The bar is always full of familiar faces waiting to greet and set guests at ease. The white linen tables, romantic lighting and hardwood floors make for a warm tranquil atmosphere. As we slipped into our seats and began to read Wild Thyme's inventive menu, soft jazz played in the background, keeping the theme strong with comfort and class.

The wine list is extensive, offering a variety of worldly and local choices to please the palate, including varietals from Bordeaux, Italian Pinot Grigio, and some familiar Long Island vineyards. Above and beyond the expected, they also offer exciting choices by the glass such as a Sancerre or a glass of Prosecco.

The menu offers regional northeastern cuisine with a fusion of Asian and Mediterranean influences. I chose the Asian Surf and Turf for two, a dish with uniqueness that makes this restaurant stand out from the others. Tempura crusted lollipop lamb chops with a mango mint chutney, fresh herb crab cakes accompanied with wasabi mayonnaise, made this appetizer spectacular in every way. One of my guests ordered the pumpkin lobster bisque and the other ordered the Duck Confit. The soup was served in a hollowed out pumpkin floated with delicious chunks of lobster. The seasonal presentation was delightful. My guest let me have a taste, and each spoonful reminded me of fall weather. The duck appetizer was served atop sherry braised beluga lentils, lardoons, Sicilian pistachios and pistachio oil. The crispy texture of the duck balanced with the sweet taste of the lentils made for an elegant choice.

For the main course, I had the wasabi-crusted cod served with sweet potatoes and shitake mushrooms. The wasabi didn't overpower the fish, but rather infused all flavors. My guests enjoyed a 16 oz. Porterhouse steak, which was cooked to perfection by Chef Michael Gomez, and Pan Roast Organic Chicken The steak was dressed in a heavenly peppercorn sauce and accompanied by a Swiss chard and leek gratin with seasoned fresh cut French fries to top it off. The chicken dish was delicious and accompanied by homemade mashed potatoes - they were so good we all had a bite. The menu also includes a spicy Yellow fin Tuna tartare, which heads the appetizers as a mouth-watering favorite by diners. Another standout is the Tuna Steak with a proper Asian twist of five spice ponzu jus and a brown rice pilaf. Also, the vegetarian entrée should not go unnoticed - Seared Emerald Rice Cake in a coconut curry sauce with lemongrass tofu, bok choy, toasted peanuts and fresh vegetables. This is a thoughtful alternative to the pasta dish that for lack of others, many omnivores are often forced to choose while dinning out. Dinner was followed by more imagination including a pumpkin creme brulée presented in a miniature pumpkin with flare and ingenuity. It tasted so perfect even those who do not care for pumpkin would have enjoyed it.

Wild Thyme Restaurant and Bar is a fresh face in a market of cookie cutter restaurants. Local produce combined with skilled preparation and comforting presentation make for a truly rewarding dining experience. Oser chose the restaurant's location for many reasons. With two small children, the couple lives just around the corner and she grew up in the neighborhood back when the restaurant was Hogan's Harbor Inn. The building that houses Wild Thyme has been a restaurant for at least 25 years. Chef Gomez and Oser spend many hours looking for twists to keep their menu interesting, while continuing to offer a variety of comfort food.

Wild Thyme Restaurant and Bar is open Thursday through Monday from 6 to 10 p.m..