Dan's Papers - October 16, 2009 - The Bay View Inn and Restaurant

Sitting a block from the Peconic Bay, the Bay View Inn restaurant is in a large, historic house with a casual wrap around porch. Décor is clean, simple and classic. The menu features a full variety of dishes that rely heavily on local ingredients with a nod to French home cooking.

We started with a bread basket of toasted foccacia with parmesan and rosemary, served with ramekins of butter and hummus. Foccacia and hummus? Why not? Pita and hummus works. And it was very nice, rich alternative to butter for the cholesterol challenged.

Appetizers range from $8 for Five Onion Soup Gratinee or a mixed salad, to $13 for selections like Cornmeal Encrusted Calamari, Fresh Pulled Warm Mozzarella, or a fruit and cheese plate.

There are also special appetizers each night. We started with the Harvest Apple and Cauliflower Soup, ($7). It was mild and warming, rich with cream, with the cauliflower the predominant flavor and a bit of heat from perhaps, white pepper. Next we tried one of those dishes for people who kind of like shellfish: Oysters Rockefeller ($12). Here, the roasted, fresh oyster was just another tasty ingredient among of spinach, chopped bacon and gruyere. Very decadent.

The Tuna Tartare (also $12) was bold and full flavored: small chunks of Asian spiced fresh tuna were mixed in a light mayonnaise of wasabi, sesame oil and scallion, served over crisp toasted wontons. A sweet hijiki salad made a nice accompaniment.

We mixed things up with a light Arugula and Radicchio salad, with fresh figs, toasted walnuts and crumbled gorgonzola. This just sang of fall, and the WHITE balsamic vinaigrette gave it a little more zing than the typical red.

Main courses, from $21 for Oxtail Bordelaise to $34 for Filet Mignon offer a full range for meat and seafood lovers, including Cedar Plank Salmon and stuffed Lump Crabmeat Stuffed Flounder, to Peppercorn Encrusted Rib Eye Steak, Asian Grilled Baby Back Ribs, and Boneless Duck Framboise.

After overindulging on the appetizers, we tried only two entrees. The Sea Scallops, wrapped with apple wood smoked bacon, were a hit, and at $28, a great value for the five enormous scallops that arrived at the table in a lovely presentation, atop butternut squash risotto. With appetizers, one of these babies was a sufficient meal. They were cooked perfectly and well seasoned. The Risotto was a sweet, creamy complement. Sauteed local swiss chard had a bit too much garlic for my taste.

The other entrée we tried was the Traditional Bouillabaisse Marseille, at $28. The light tomato/leek broth rang of fresh celery, and organic soba noodles supported the generous portions of striped bass, shrimp, halibut and clams. My first experience of Bouillabaisse was IN a French town on the cote d'azur, just south of Marseille, where the dish originated. It was a mythical meal, one that you measure the dish by for the rest of your life. Based on that memory, the Bouillabaisse at the Bay View didn't quite come together for me.

Bay View has a nice selection of wines by the glass at just $8 or $9. They have a great kids menu, at under $10 plate. Our young diner went gaga for the fresh (not frozen) ravioli, and a side of delicious fresh spinach sautéed with just enough garlic. They also have chicken tenders and burgers.

Bay View offers a prix fix from Sunday to Thursday, 4-6 p.m., for just $25.00. On the night we went, that menu included the above mentioned delight, arugula salad, and a soup, or fried calamari as an appetizer. Entrees included pork chops, poached salmon, duck, hangar steak, plus dessert.

Desserts - all $9.00, except for the fruit and cheese plate. They included tiramisu, sorbet, parfaits, and peanut butter pie. We tried and thoroughly enjoyed a Brownie Sundae, with a home made brownie, ice cream, drizzled with rich, bitter chocolate ganache.

The Bay View Inn and Restaurant. 10 Front St. (S. Jamesport Ave.) South Jamesport. 631-722-2659.