Dan's Papers - October 19, 2007 - Sylvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

Nobody ever pigged out on oat bran or tofu. In fact most "eat this and you'll live forever food" is not on my short-list of food memories - except for almonds. When I visited Spain some years back a dish of Spanish salted nuts served tapas style with a glass of sherry brought back memories of the salted almonds we ate at home. I've been blanching, moist salting and oven-drying almonds ever since. They are not only great at cocktail time but just a handful at snack time can suppress the appetite.

Research claiming that almonds are good for us is pretty substantial. Traditional lore about almonds suggests a powerful effect they have on health. The anti-oxidant polyphenols, vitamin E and dietary fiber found in almonds may be the component that exerts the greatest cancer preventative. Indications show almonds may play a role in prevention of colon cancer. United States dietary guidelines for Americans recommend consumers substitute saturated fat in the diet with monounsaturated fat. Nearly 70% of the fat in almonds is monounsaturated. In the list of foods that cause allergic reactions, almonds fall at the bottom. Studies also show that a one-ounce serving of almonds are satiating and may play a valuable role in weight management. This same one-ounce, 160 calorie serving, is an excellent source of vitamin E, magnesium, protein and fiber, and offers potassium, calcium, phosphorus and iron.

With it all I make no health food claims for the salted almonds, which have a fair amount of salt and the orange almond cake, while devoid of butter or oil, the recipe has its fair share of sugar. We must have some joy in our lives. On the other hand you might question the apple, almond and quinoa salad. Could it be too good to be good for us?

SALTED SPANISH ALMONDS
Inspired by a Sephardic family recipe, a cousin filled in the blanks.
I prefer to purchase whole almonds in their shells then blanch them as needed. For the amount below it will take about 15-20 minutes or so to peel after blanching. But think of the time saver it is when you whip them out to serve as an appetizer with a glass of Sherry as I had in the elegant home of Clara Maria Amezua in Madrid, Spain, as prelude to a delicious lunch.
Yield: 3 cups salted nuts

3 cups whole almonds in their skin
1/4 cup coarse (kosher) salt

1. Bring a medium saucepan of water to the boil and drop in the almonds. Boil for1minute and drain in a colander. When cool enough to handle, but still wet, slip off the skins by holding each almond between your thumb and forefinger and give the nut a slight twist. The blanched almond will push off from the skin. Continue until all are done and put into a colander. Shake almonds of any excess water but while still moist sprinkle with salt and toss to coat. Spread the salted almonds on a baking sheet, one layer deep, and let dry at room temperature for 24-36 hours.
Preheat oven to 225 degrees.

2. Bake in preheated oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes until a toasty pale beige. Let cool and store in an airtight container as they will keep fresh for a couple of weeks.

APPLE, ALMOND AND QUINOA SALAD
Quinoa boasts the highest nutrition profile of all grains and is the quickest cooking!
Serves 4

3 tablespoons whole almonds
1/3 cup quinoa
2 cups water
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 peeled and diced Granny Smith apple
1/3 cup currants or raisins
4 tablespoons chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Place almonds in a small skillet and shake over medium heat until toasty and lightly golden, about 5-7 minutes. Allow to cool and roughly chop.

2. Place 2 cups water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Put in the quinoa, lower heat to medium and simmer, uncovered for 10-12 minutes or until the grains turn translucent. Pour into a strainer, draining well. Do not rinse. Place in a bowl and toss with a little of the olive oil to prevent sticking.

3. Place quinoa in a bowl with the apples, currants, almonds and herbs and toss to mix. Add lemon juice, remaining oil and black pepper. Mix thoroughly and serve.
*Natural grain quinoa is availible at Provisions in Sag Harbor.

4 eggs, separated
1/2 cup sugar
Grated rind of 2 oranges
1/4 pound blanched almonds, finely ground

The Syrup
Juice of 2 oranges
1/3 cup sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon orange liqueur, optional

1. In a stand-up electric mixer or with hand electric mixers beat the egg yolks and sugar until fluffy and lemon colored, about 5 minutes. Gradually beat in the orange rind and almonds. In a clean bowl, beat egg whites until stiff but not dry. Fold egg whites into the yolk mixture with a rubber spatula. Transfer to a well buttered and floured 9-inch round cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees for about 30-35 minutes, or when a cake tester or wooden skewer, inserted in the center of the cake, comes out clean. Cool slightly, then remove the cake from the pan onto a serving dish. Poke the surface of the cake with the skewer in several places.

2. Prepare the syrup; place the orange juice, sugar, and cinnamon stick in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer 4-5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange liqueur, if using. Cool, then pour evenly over the cake.

Adapted from Penelope Casas, Foods & Wines of Spain, Knopf, 1982.